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  1. #11
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    Re: The whole idea behind not removing too much clear is very confusing..

    Swedish quality LOL.

    Interesting discussion this. What I have seen is that with a proper sanding you can level less clearcoat than a heavy compounding on the same defects. Was a video from Rupes training center with Jason Rose doing a trunk that was pretty beatened up from swirlomatic car washes I think he said. It was on Obsessed Garage when Matt where at the Rupes in Colorado. The readings after each step with a paint thickness gauge was mind boggleing for me. It was very little clearcoat they took off to get it defect free. And it seemed to be more control over it than heavy cutting compounding it. Then your results is also interesting that it an oem paint can handle a lot of sanding. And it sure is not to be diving in head first when doing sanding. But as you do test it out on a test panel.

  2. #12
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    Re: The whole idea behind not removing too much clear is very confusing..

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Oldz View Post
    The only product I know that claims to add this protection back to the clear is OCW(with continued use)and I believe that is the main part of the patent for OCW.
    It's been a while since I've read the patent, but IIRC it wasn't the idea to put a UV inhibitor into a wax/sealant that was the basis of the patent, it was the chemistry that allowed that UV inhibitor to be mixed into an aqueous spray product and adhere to the (car) surface. I just looked it up, the objects of the patent "were accomplished by the discovery of a method of turning emulsions/dispersions into suspensions, by neutralizing the surfactants used in making the emulsion/dispersion."

  3. #13
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The whole idea behind not removing too much clear is very confusing..

    I’ve never read anything about the UV bickers/inhibitors “migrating” to the outside?

    Could be... but I’ve read a lot and then typed a lot and don’t remember ever reading this?

    I have talked to a real chemist and the typed about this on an article I wrote called,

    Ceramiclear Paints - Be Careful

    You can Google that and add my name and see what I wrote about “migrating” there.

    The bigger picture for this topic is - if you want to correct your paint then do it and after that stop putting scratches back into it - at least deep scratches so you don’t have to compound a second time.

    Make sense?



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  5. #14
    Super Member Bruno Soares's Avatar
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    Re: The whole idea behind not removing too much clear is very confusing..

    Larry’s latest video with Kevin Brown does mention this migration to the top of the clear. It was the first time I heard about it.
    Bruno Soares


  6. #15
    Super Member Calendyr's Avatar
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    Re: The whole idea behind not removing too much clear is very confusing..

    What I tell my clients is this: A compound is not something you should be doing as part of the maintenance of the car. If you decide to do it, it should not be repeated. It's a one time process that makes the paint like new but leaves it in a weakens state. Polishes on the other hand al negligeable impact on the paint, so that can be done every year if you want.

    I watched the video with Larry and Kevin this afternoon and thought they did a very good job at presenting the facts about paint correction. I am not sure if UV protection migration is a thing or not, but even if it isn't, by removing 20% or the clearcoat during a compounding step, you are removing 20% of the UV protection and making the paint more vulnerable to UV light, thus speeding up the clearcoat failure time.

  7. #16
    Super Member RippyD's Avatar
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    Re: The whole idea behind not removing too much clear is very confusing..

    Quote Originally Posted by DBAILEY View Post
    I have a few clients that don't get this. They know that I can remove the swirls that they put in the car, but never seem to care about my warnings that I can't keep doing this and they need to be more gentle with their car.

    It kills me to see people constantly polishing their hoods and roof testing coatings and other LSP all the time. Some of you guys are nuts.
    I'm that guy. I generally polish with a fine polish, sometimes with a non-abrasive polish like McKee's Prep Polish. It's about 2x a year for me and very light polishing. I don't think it's an issue. My most tested car also has 140K miles on it. It doesn't have too many years left in it.
    2006 LR3 White // 2014 Boxster Agate Gray // 2012 Sentra Aspen White
    Sealant test resultsxxxxxDilution ratio chartxxxxxWheel cleaner info

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