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Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Your making the right choice of the gg6. I have long throws, rotaries, etc. But use my gg6 on every car I do. Best overall polisher out there, in my opinion.
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Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Originally Posted by Pchang978
Appreciate all of the input! I'm convinced to go with the GG6 now instead of the maxshine and will be ordering griots 5in and 3in backing plates along with a set of 3.5" LC HDO pads. I know someone had mentioned to buy multiple pads and YES I will be doing that in the future if I start to do side work. But after speaking with the installer of Diamond Pro, he assured me that as long as I'm using a brush and cleaning my pads after every panel, there's no reason why the single 5.5" MF, blue foam and orange foam shouldn't allow me to do the entire vehicle. And now I will have a full set of the same pads in 3.5" as well. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good brush or are they all the same? I was going to just go with Gold Label Detailing Foam Pad Brush Amazon.com: Gold Label Detailing Foam Pad Cleaning Brush | DA Orbital Polishing Disc Cleaner | Works on Foam and Wool Pads: Automotive
With all do respect to the person who told you what I highlighted above, nothing could be further from the truth. Pads are one of the most important components to polishing paint. It's what's touching your paint and along with the polish giving you the results you are trying to achieve. Rule 1 in paint correction, you can never have enough pads. Rule 2, you can never clean a pad on the fly better than using a fresh pad. Heat is the enemy to a pad, product build up is an enemy to a pad. Saturation happens no matter how much you try to clean the pad. As saturation happens the pores clog and the pad becomes less effective as it loses its aggressiveness, these will all work to diminish pad life if not destroy them. So by using more pads an additional benefit is it actually extends the pads life cycle. This you will learn from trial and error when your pad over heats and it collapses in the center or flies across the garage because the epoxy broke down and the pad separated(ask me how I know that LOL). Rule 3, the pad collects debris as you use it so why rub embedded build up all over paint you are trying to polish? Just a note, I'm referring to foam pads in my above post.
Mike has a number of posts you can search for on the forum about this very subject.
Go to Mike's post #7 & #8
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...highlight=pads
2013 Genesis Coupe 3.8 Track Edition
2015 Hyundai Sonata Limited, 2016 Pearl White Nissan Altima SR
2019 Nissan Rogue SL
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Super Member
Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Originally Posted by custmsprty
With all do respect to the person who told you what I highlighted above, nothing could be further from the truth. Pads are one of the most important components to polishing paint. It's what's touching your paint and along with the polish giving you the results you are trying to achieve. Rule 1 in paint correction, you can never have enough pads. Rule 2, you can never clean a pad on the fly better than using a fresh pad. Heat is the enemy to a pad, product build up is an enemy to a pad. Saturation happens no matter how much you try to clean the pad. As saturation happens the pores clog and the pad becomes less effective as it loses its aggressiveness, these will all work to diminish pad life if not destroy them. So by using more pads an additional benefit is it actually extends the pads life cycle. This you will learn from trial and error when your pad over heats and it collapses in the center or flies across the garage because the epoxy broke down and the pad separated. Rule 3, the pad collects debris as you use it so why rub embedded build up all over paint you are trying to polish?
Mike has a number of posts you can search for on the forum about this very subject.
Very well put, OP do yourself a favor and get at least 2 extra pads.
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Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Originally Posted by custmsprty
With all do respect to the person who told you what I highlighted above, nothing could be further from the truth. Pads are one of the most important components to polishing paint. It's what's touching your paint and along with the polish giving you the results you are trying to achieve. Rule 1 in paint correction, you can never have enough pads. Rule 2, you can never clean a pad on the fly better than using a fresh pad. Heat is the enemy to a pad, product build up is an enemy to a pad. Saturation happens no matter how much you try to clean the pad. As saturation happens the pores clog and the pad becomes less effective as it loses its aggressiveness, these will all work to diminish pad life if not destroy them. So by using more pads an additional benefit is it actually extends the pads life cycle. This you will learn from trial and error when your pad over heats and it collapses in the center or flies across the garage because the epoxy broke down and the pad separated. Rule 3, the pad collects debris as you use it so why rub embedded build up all over paint you are trying to polish? Just a note, I'm referring to foam pads in my above post.
Mike has a number of posts you can search for on the forum about this very subject.
Go to Mike's post #7 & #8
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...highlight=pads
Couldn't agree with this more.
And, this is the exact reason I will go through roughly 20 pads while doing a full correction on my truck.
The more pads you use, the less work they do, the less wear they incur, and the better your final product becomes.
It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.
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Super Member
Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Originally Posted by Pchang978
I already have The Last Cut compound and 2 edgeless 500 towels from the rag company for final wipe down. Along with Lake Country HDO 5.5" MF, Blue cutting foam, orange polishing foam pads. I've decided to go with the Griots 6" polisher and vented 5" backing plate along with their HD 3" backing plate. And yes, I'll be using IronX and claymagic fine grade. I plan on spending around $500 on equipment not including what I've already spent on the coating, TLC, and pads. I want to do this right. Instead of Carpro eraser, I will be using the final wipe down solvent that was provided to me by the dealer of the Diamond Pro Coating I'm using.
But thank you for the suggestion. I'll take a look at the Wolfgang total swirl remover. I am using wolfgang uber rinsless wash and diluting it, and using that as a quick detailer for after the car is coated and I ever need to touch up a spot.
I use a couple different polish set ups.
One is Menzerna 400, 2500, and 4000 (3500).
I believe the Menzerna is similar to the Wolfgang line. If so, you'd be in really good hands with either.
I love the Meguiar's M205, but there have been times it was difficult, and / or impossible for me to finish out with. Personally, I'm not about to go jumping through hoops to make it work. I want a product that will do the job out of the bottle.
That being said - M205 is usually that polish for me, but in those times of trouble 2500, will get the job done. The gloss from 3500 takes it a step further.
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Super Member
Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Originally Posted by PaulMys
Couldn't agree with this more.
And, this is the exact reason I will go through roughly 20 pads while doing a full correction on my truck.
The more pads you use, the less work they do, the less wear they incur, and the better your final product becomes.
Yes, this is good advice - definitely pick up at least four of each. I rarely use all four per step, but it's nice to know they're there.
And actually I like to carry eight to twelve with me if I'm mobile.
If I'm in the garage at home I have a ridiculous amount at my disposal.
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Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Originally Posted by custmsprty
With all do respect to the person who told you what I highlighted above, nothing could be further from the truth. Pads are one of the most important components to polishing paint. It's what's touching your paint and along with the polish giving you the results you are trying to achieve. Rule 1 in paint correction, you can never have enough pads. Rule 2, you can never clean a pad on the fly better than using a fresh pad. Heat is the enemy to a pad, product build up is an enemy to a pad. Saturation happens no matter how much you try to clean the pad. As saturation happens the pores clog and the pad becomes less effective as it loses its aggressiveness, these will all work to diminish pad life if not destroy them. So by using more pads an additional benefit is it actually extends the pads life cycle. This you will learn from trial and error when your pad over heats and it collapses in the center or flies across the garage because the epoxy broke down and the pad separated(ask me how I know that LOL). Rule 3, the pad collects debris as you use it so why rub embedded build up all over paint you are trying to polish? Just a note, I'm referring to foam pads in my above post.
Mike has a number of posts you can search for on the forum about this very subject.
Go to Mike's post #7 & #8
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...highlight=pads
Thanks for the Input. Makes perfect sense. So for one coupe, you’d recommend I have at least 4 of the same pad in both sizes (5.5,3.5”)?
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Super Member
Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
you can never have enough pads and microfiber towels...
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Super Member
Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Originally Posted by Pchang978
Thanks for the Input. Makes perfect sense. So for one coupe, you’d recommend I have at least 4 of the same pad in both sizes (5.5,3.5”)?
And then some.....
But 4 of each is a good start.
It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.
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Re: Finishing Polish For A Beginner
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
I wish I had a 5 dollar bill every time I waded into the murky confusion over the word
Filler
All compounds and polishes, even if they are "water-based" and state they don't have any fillers.... they all have some form of lubricating agents because without them the abrasives would simply SCOUR the scratch-sensitive "thing" you're buffing on. Yes, clearcoat paints are scratch-sensitive, it is the "thing" you're buffing on.
These lubricating agents or oils will also act to fill and this is normal but if you're applying a coating you can and will want to remove them. I would say most people that focus to deeply on fillers are forgetting what I call
The BIG PICTURE
What is the big picture? Here's a question,
Why do we polish paint? What is the SIMPLE answer not the anal retentive deep answer.
The above question is not a rhetorical question. Please someone take a stab at it.
In my detailing classes, I teach people to walk before they can run. I teach the simple 8mm free spinning orbital polishers like the Griot's Garage orbital polisher and then as we move through the day we use the RUPES long throw polishers followed by the Griot's BOSS long through polishers followed by the BEAST.
I do all of the above for a reason.
Me?
I think everyone should own a simple 8mm free spinning orbital polisher because it's simply so handy at so many things.
I wish FLEX would introduce one. I asked them to year ago when I has a SECRET meeting with the FLEX engineers. I brought this topic back up with Bob Eichelberg just about 2 weeks ago. Might be re-visiting the idea.
The issue with long stroke polishers is the outer edge of the pads gain leverage over the reciprocating components when buffing non-flat surfaces and cause pad stalling. With a short stroke polisher it's dramatically less of an issue.
I think I have an article on this topic somewhere?
Someone try looking up,
Ghosting Footprint RUPES Mike Phillips
Big picture = don't get caught up in the silliness of fillers. Focus on what's more important.
Here's the article I referenced above. Was kind of thinking someone would have and could have done the super sleuthing and found it...
The ghosting footprint and the actual footprint - Long Stroke Free Spinning Orbital Polishers
And the above ties back to this...
Flex 5 inch 8mm throw polisher!!
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