Finishing Polish For A Beginner

[VISITOR]

pchang78, do you currently own a polisher or will this be your first?

[Pchang978]

pchang78, do you currently own a polisher or will this be your first?

This will be my first. I may just say “screw it” and spend the money on a Rupes mark ii 15. Only thing in my possession is the ceramic coating, TLC and the 3 pads I listed off. I’m wanting to order everything at once and not need anything later on down the road. As in, in the middle of correcting and coating my car lol.

[VISITOR]

This will be my first. I may just say “screw it” and spend the money on a Rupes mark ii 15. Only thing in my possession is the ceramic coating, TLC and the 3 pads I listed off. I’m wanting to order everything at once and not need anything later on down the road. As in, in the middle of correcting and coating my car lol.

a long throw polisher should be an addition to another polisher(s) and not the only one as they are limited to pad options and backing plates. there are areas around the vehicle where the panels are thin/narrow and a 3" and/or 4" pad would be more suitable/appropriate for that task in which a long throw polisher is unable to provide...

Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips

[Klasse Act]

A nice finishing product that's easy to use is 303 Finishing Polish

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Mike Phillips]

I need to clarify, I’m looking for something without any fillers.

I wish I had a 5 dollar bill every time I waded into the murky confusion over the word

Filler

All compounds and polishes, even if they are "water-based" and state they don't have any fillers.... they all have some form of lubricating agents because without them the abrasives would simply SCOUR the scratch-sensitive "thing" you're buffing on. Yes, clearcoat paints are scratch-sensitive, it is the "thing" you're buffing on.

These lubricating agents or oils will also act to fill and this is normal but if you're applying a coating you can and will want to remove them. I would say most people that focus to deeply on fillers are forgetting what I call

The BIG PICTURE

What is the big picture? Here's a question,

Why do we polish paint? What is the SIMPLE answer not the anal retentive deep answer.


The above question is not a rhetorical question. Please someone take a stab at it.

This will be my first. I may just say “screw it” and spend the money on a Rupes mark ii 15.

In my detailing classes, I teach people to walk before they can run. I teach the simple 8mm free spinning orbital polishers like the Griot's Garage orbital polisher and then as we move through the day we use the RUPES long throw polishers followed by the Griot's BOSS long through polishers followed by the BEAST.

I do all of the above for a reason.

Me?

I think everyone should own a simple 8mm free spinning orbital polisher because it's simply so handy at so many things.

I wish FLEX would introduce one. I asked them to year ago when I has a SECRET meeting with the FLEX engineers. I brought this topic back up with Bob Eichelberg just about 2 weeks ago. Might be re-visiting the idea.

The issue with long stroke polishers is the outer edge of the pads gain leverage over the reciprocating components when buffing non-flat surfaces and cause pad stalling. With a short stroke polisher it's dramatically less of an issue.

I think I have an article on this topic somewhere?

Someone try looking up,

Ghosting Footprint RUPES Mike Phillips


Big picture = don't get caught up in the silliness of fillers. Focus on what's more important.

[Pchang978]

I wish I had a 5 dollar bill every time I waded into the murky confusion over the word

Filler

All compounds and polishes, even if they are "water-based" and state they don't have any fillers.... they all have some form of lubricating agents because without them the abrasives would simply SCOUR the scratch-sensitive "thing" you're buffing on. Yes, clearcoat paints are scratch-sensitive, it is the "thing" you're buffing on.

These lubricating agents or oils will also act to fill and this is normal but if you're applying a coating you can and will want to remove them. I would say most people that focus to deeply on fillers are forgetting what I call

The BIG PICTURE

What is the big picture? Here's a question,

Why do we polish paint? What is the SIMPLE answer not the anal retentive deep answer.


The above question is not a rhetorical question. Please someone take a stab at it.








In my detailing classes, I teach people to walk before they can run. I teach the simple 8mm free spinning orbital polishers like the Griot's Garage orbital polisher and then as we move through the day we use the RUPES long throw polishers followed by the Griot's BOSS long through polishers followed by the BEAST.

I do all of the above for a reason.

Me?

I think everyone should own a simple 8mm free spinning orbital polisher because it's simply so handy at so many things.

I wish FLEX would introduce one. I asked them to year ago when I has a SECRET meeting with the FLEX engineers. I brought this topic back up with Bob Eichelberg just about 2 weeks ago. Might be re-visiting the idea.

The issue with long stroke polishers is the outer edge of the pads gain leverage over the reciprocating components when buffing non-flat surfaces and cause pad stalling. With a short stroke polisher it's dramatically less of an issue.

I think I have an article on this topic somewhere?

Someone try looking up,

Ghosting image Mike Phillips


Big picture = don't get caught up in the silliness of fillers. Focus on what's more important.

Appreciate all of the input! I'm convinced to go with the GG6 now instead of the maxshine and will be ordering griots 5in and 3in backing plates along with a set of 3.5" LC HDO pads. I know someone had mentioned to buy multiple pads and YES I will be doing that in the future if I start to do side work. But after speaking with the installer of Diamond Pro, he assured me that as long as I'm using a brush and cleaning my pads after every panel, there's no reason why the single 5.5" MF, blue foam and orange foam shouldn't allow me to do the entire vehicle. And now I will have a full set of the same pads in 3.5" as well. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good brush or are they all the same? I was going to just go with Gold Label Detailing Foam Pad Brush

[dlc95]

Appreciate all of the input! I'm convinced to go with the GG6 now instead of the maxshine and will be ordering griots 5in and 3in backing plates along with a set of 3.5" LC HDO pads. I know someone had mentioned to buy multiple pads and YES I will be doing that in the future if I start to do side work. But after speaking with the installer of Diamond Pro, he assured me that as long as I'm using a brush and cleaning my pads after every panel, there's no reason why the single 5.5" MF, blue foam and orange foam shouldn't allow me to do the entire vehicle. And now I will have a full set of the same pads in 3.5" as well. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good brush or are they all the same? I was going to just go with Gold Label Detailing Foam Pad Brush Amazon.com: Gold Label Detailing Foam Pad Cleaning Brush | DA Orbital Polishing Disc Cleaner | Works on Foam and Wool Pads: Automotive

This is the brush I've been using for years:

Foam Pad Conditioning Brush cleans and reconditions foam and wool pads on the buffer. remove excess caked wax and polish from buffing pads.

[Pchang978]

Was wondering about that one. I'll go with it instead. Thanks

[MarkD51]

I gather this is your car? Irregardless, with such a car you want to do it right the first time out, especially if you're planning on a Coating. I wouldn't cut corners with tools, or products. Not on a car like this.

Sounds like you don't have the Menzerna 3500, so I'll suggest another great alternative. The Wolfgang Trio.

Uber Compound, Total Swirl Remover, and Finishing Glaze (which is not a glaze btw)

Meguiars #205 is an outstanding polish, but is an ultra fine polish, you might find some deeper sleeks (RIDS) that the #205 or Menz 3500 won't touch. The WG Uber Compound would be one of my choices, truly a fantastic product that finishes down so nicely. And will remove deeper paint damage so nicely without harm.

Yup, you might spend close to $5 Bills ($500), depends, but I'd go with the Griots GG6, the Griots 5" Ventilated Backing Plate, a 3.5" Lake Country Urethane Backing Plate, a selection of about a 1/2 dozen of both the 5.5" and 4" White Lake Country ThinPro Pads.

Some decent Clay or a clay kit, Mothers is a good all around kit, a couple rolls of Masking Tape, and perhaps a bottle of Carpro Eraser.

If I were to go further, and I have commonly, a bottle of Carpro Iron-X or an equivalent.

Lastly, some decent MF Towels. (Have many) The cheapos from places like Sam's Club are OK for "dirty work", but always nice to have some really good ones like Cobras, Boas, and the like for final wipedowns.

[Pchang978]

I gather this is your car? Irregardless, with such a car you want to do it right the first time out, especially if you're planning on a Coating. I wouldn't cut corners with tools, or products. Not on a car like this.

Sounds like you don't have the Menzerna 3500, so I'll suggest another great alternative. The Wolfgang Trio.

Uber Compound, Total Swirl Remover, and Finishing Glaze (which is not a glaze btw)

Meguiars #205 is an outstanding polish, but is an ultra fine polish, you might find some deeper sleeks (RIDS) that the #205 or Menz 3500 won't touch. The WG Uber Compound would be one of my choices, truly a fantastic product that finishes down so nicely. And will remove deeper paint damage so nicely without harm.

Yup, you might spend close to $5 Bills ($500), depends, but I'd go with the Griots GG6, the Griots 5" Ventilated Backing Plate, a 3.5" Lake Country Urethane Backing Plate, a selection of about a 1/2 dozen of both the 5.5" and 4" White Lake Country ThinPro Pads.

Some decent Clay or a clay kit, Mothers is a good all around kit, a couple rolls of Masking Tape, and perhaps a bottle of Carpro Eraser.

If I were to go further, and I have commonly, a bottle of Carpro Iron-X or an equivalent.

Lastly, some decent MF Towels. (Have many) The cheapos from places like Sam's Club are OK for "dirty work", but always nice to have some really good ones like Cobras, Boas, and the like for final wipedowns.

I already have The Last Cut compound and 2 edgeless 500 towels from the rag company for final wipe down. Along with Lake Country HDO 5.5" MF, Blue cutting foam, orange polishing foam pads. I've decided to go with the Griots 6" polisher and vented 5" backing plate along with their HD 3" backing plate. And yes, I'll be using IronX and claymagic fine grade. I plan on spending around $500 on equipment not including what I've already spent on the coating, TLC, and pads. I want to do this right. Instead of Carpro eraser, I will be using the final wipe down solvent that was provided to me by the dealer of the Diamond Pro Coating I'm using.

But thank you for the suggestion. I'll take a look at the Wolfgang total swirl remover. I am using wolfgang uber rinsless wash and diluting it, and using that as a quick detailer for after the car is coated and I ever need to touch up a spot.