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  1. #11
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    Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?

    Quote Originally Posted by nvestr View Post
    From my understanding, it appears that the consensus is that these would be leftover contaminants "beneath" the coating and not something sticking on top?
    You have to remember that the coating is in reality very thin, and that a bonded iron contaminant might not be "under" the coating, but sticking up through the coating. It's also possible that even if the contaminant was "coated" that may be imperfect and the chlorides may penetrate the coating and react with the iron.

    Anyway, it's easy to check, as you suggested try a small spot or single panel, treat it with the Iron-X and see if it bleeds, you may want to repeat a couple of times or with a long dwell (don't let it dry), and see if that area remains free of spots over the next few salt exposures.

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  3. #12
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    Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?

    This is what the vehicle looked like after a full wash. This is 5 weeks post coating. Again, the car had an application of Iron-X and was fully clayed before applying the coating.
    Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?-img_20190209_1407049-jpg EDIT: I guess the forum resizes the photos so hard to see the spots...

    I did 2 applications of Iron-X on this door afterwards. The second application hardly had any purple. Now to see in a week or two if gets nasty again.
    Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?-img_20190209_1410321-jpg


    There was also a significant amount of black specks (assume road tar) on the finish (did not react or get removed by Iron-X). Had a hard time getting it off the coating with Poorboy's Bug Squash... Is it normal for that stuff to stick that much on a coated surface?

    I have a new vehicle ordered that will arrive in May and I plan on coating it as well, but not sure I want to use CSL again based on this experience...

  4. #13
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    Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?

    Some iron particals clinging really hard sometimes. The thing with the iron remover is they only desolves the oxidized iron and leaves the rest of the iron partical behind. But since you desolve that it's useally only needs to be rinsed off. As the iron partical gets smaller without the oxidized parts. Sometimes if the particals is new the jagged edges of the iron partical has not been able to oxidized enough to be desolved. The easiest way is to after the first application of ironx you do test spots where you saw the most bleeding effect. And if it's bleed again at the same rate as the first application you can do a second full application of ironx. To be certain that it's gets rinsed off or it's gets picked up by the clay.

    The environment I live in Sweden we get a lot of tar and rubber spots even on coatings. And the tar is very sticky too. Sometimes it's enough to get them when you do your wash. But I don't like getting this gunk in the wash mitts. So almost every wash after the prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it off. I use a tar remover on the lower side panels and the back of the car to desolve it and rinse it off with the PW. Then I move on to the 2bm wash and take the little dirt that is left off. Even on very salt crusted dirty cars the rinse bucket after a wash is almost clean. It's the little of road film that gets washed away when bucket washing.

    Some LSP release contaminants better than others. But it's also different kind of dirt and contaminants they release easier. So some LSP can release tar easier and other resist or release water spots easier. And that is very depending on the environment you live in what kind of contaminants you gets. So not easy to say which one works better than the other than by personal experience with it.

    Do you use any topper on the CSL? The C2v3 is a little knowned for not being effective as self cleaning ability. And EXO v4 excells the behavior from the CSL very good. So CSL/ EXO combo is a great choice to use. CSL is also in the middle of the self cleaning ability so there is some that is better in that case.

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  6. #14
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    Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    Some iron particals clinging really hard sometimes. The thing with the iron remover is they only desolves the oxidized iron and leaves the rest of the iron partical behind. But since you desolve that it's useally only needs to be rinsed off. As the iron partical gets smaller without the oxidized parts. Sometimes if the particals is new the jagged edges of the iron partical has not been able to oxidized enough to be desolved. The easiest way is to after the first application of ironx you do test spots where you saw the most bleeding effect. And if it's bleed again at the same rate as the first application you can do a second full application of ironx. To be certain that it's gets rinsed off or it's gets picked up by the clay.

    The environment I live in Sweden we get a lot of tar and rubber spots even on coatings. And the tar is very sticky too. Sometimes it's enough to get them when you do your wash. But I don't like getting this gunk in the wash mitts. So almost every wash after the prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it off. I use a tar remover on the lower side panels and the back of the car to desolve it and rinse it off with the PW. Then I move on to the 2bm wash and take the little dirt that is left off. Even on very salt crusted dirty cars the rinse bucket after a wash is almost clean. It's the little of road film that gets washed away when bucket washing.

    Some LSP release contaminants better than others. But it's also different kind of dirt and contaminants they release easier. So some LSP can release tar easier and other resist or release water spots easier. And that is very depending on the environment you live in what kind of contaminants you gets. So not easy to say which one works better than the other than by personal experience with it.

    Do you use any topper on the CSL? The C2v3 is a little knowned for not being effective as self cleaning ability. And EXO v4 excells the behavior from the CSL very good. So CSL/ EXO combo is a great choice to use. CSL is also in the middle of the self cleaning ability so there is some that is better in that case.
    Thanks - nothing on top of CSL. I had read conflicting info on EXO over CSL not being much better (i.e. not being worth extra labor and cost) so I opted to try CSL only. I will look at doing the CSL/EXO combo for my next vehicle but still want to wait and see if those orange specks are eliminated or not...

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