Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
nvestr
From my understanding, it appears that the consensus is that these would be leftover contaminants "beneath" the coating and not something sticking on top?
You have to remember that the coating is in reality very thin, and that a bonded iron contaminant might not be "under" the coating, but sticking up through the coating. It's also possible that even if the contaminant was "coated" that may be imperfect and the chlorides may penetrate the coating and react with the iron.
Anyway, it's easy to check, as you suggested try a small spot or single panel, treat it with the Iron-X and see if it bleeds, you may want to repeat a couple of times or with a long dwell (don't let it dry), and see if that area remains free of spots over the next few salt exposures.
2 Attachment(s)
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
This is what the vehicle looked like after a full wash. This is 5 weeks post coating. Again, the car had an application of Iron-X and was fully clayed before applying the coating.
Attachment 65844 EDIT: I guess the forum resizes the photos so hard to see the spots...
I did 2 applications of Iron-X on this door afterwards. The second application hardly had any purple. Now to see in a week or two if gets nasty again.
Attachment 65843
There was also a significant amount of black specks (assume road tar) on the finish (did not react or get removed by Iron-X). Had a hard time getting it off the coating with Poorboy's Bug Squash... Is it normal for that stuff to stick that much on a coated surface?
I have a new vehicle ordered that will arrive in May and I plan on coating it as well, but not sure I want to use CSL again based on this experience...
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
Some iron particals clinging really hard sometimes. The thing with the iron remover is they only desolves the oxidized iron and leaves the rest of the iron partical behind. But since you desolve that it's useally only needs to be rinsed off. As the iron partical gets smaller without the oxidized parts. Sometimes if the particals is new the jagged edges of the iron partical has not been able to oxidized enough to be desolved. The easiest way is to after the first application of ironx you do test spots where you saw the most bleeding effect. And if it's bleed again at the same rate as the first application you can do a second full application of ironx. To be certain that it's gets rinsed off or it's gets picked up by the clay.
The environment I live in Sweden we get a lot of tar and rubber spots even on coatings. And the tar is very sticky too. Sometimes it's enough to get them when you do your wash. But I don't like getting this gunk in the wash mitts. So almost every wash after the prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it off. I use a tar remover on the lower side panels and the back of the car to desolve it and rinse it off with the PW. Then I move on to the 2bm wash and take the little dirt that is left off. Even on very salt crusted dirty cars the rinse bucket after a wash is almost clean. It's the little of road film that gets washed away when bucket washing.
Some LSP release contaminants better than others. But it's also different kind of dirt and contaminants they release easier. So some LSP can release tar easier and other resist or release water spots easier. And that is very depending on the environment you live in what kind of contaminants you gets. So not easy to say which one works better than the other than by personal experience with it.
Do you use any topper on the CSL? The C2v3 is a little knowned for not being effective as self cleaning ability. And EXO v4 excells the behavior from the CSL very good. So CSL/ EXO combo is a great choice to use. CSL is also in the middle of the self cleaning ability so there is some that is better in that case.
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SWETM
Some iron particals clinging really hard sometimes. The thing with the iron remover is they only desolves the oxidized iron and leaves the rest of the iron partical behind. But since you desolve that it's useally only needs to be rinsed off. As the iron partical gets smaller without the oxidized parts. Sometimes if the particals is new the jagged edges of the iron partical has not been able to oxidized enough to be desolved. The easiest way is to after the first application of ironx you do test spots where you saw the most bleeding effect. And if it's bleed again at the same rate as the first application you can do a second full application of ironx. To be certain that it's gets rinsed off or it's gets picked up by the clay.
The environment I live in Sweden we get a lot of tar and rubber spots even on coatings. And the tar is very sticky too. Sometimes it's enough to get them when you do your wash. But I don't like getting this gunk in the wash mitts. So almost every wash after the prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it off. I use a tar remover on the lower side panels and the back of the car to desolve it and rinse it off with the PW. Then I move on to the 2bm wash and take the little dirt that is left off. Even on very salt crusted dirty cars the rinse bucket after a wash is almost clean. It's the little of road film that gets washed away when bucket washing.
Some LSP release contaminants better than others. But it's also different kind of dirt and contaminants they release easier. So some LSP can release tar easier and other resist or release water spots easier. And that is very depending on the environment you live in what kind of contaminants you gets. So not easy to say which one works better than the other than by personal experience with it.
Do you use any topper on the CSL? The C2v3 is a little knowned for not being effective as self cleaning ability. And EXO v4 excells the behavior from the CSL very good. So CSL/ EXO combo is a great choice to use. CSL is also in the middle of the self cleaning ability so there is some that is better in that case.
Thanks - nothing on top of CSL. I had read conflicting info on EXO over CSL not being much better (i.e. not being worth extra labor and cost) so I opted to try CSL only. I will look at doing the CSL/EXO combo for my next vehicle but still want to wait and see if those orange specks are eliminated or not...
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
Hi all, following up on this post. I made a video showing the water beading/sheeting performance of the coating after 2 months.
From what I've seen in other videos, the hydrophobic properties of CSL alone should be better than what I'm experiencing. Where did I go wrong?
YouTube
Would appreciate any feedback or thoughts...
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
I watched your video. One thing is that CSL is not the most hydrophobic coating. It is more of a sheeting type coating than a strong beading type coating like Cquartz UK 3.0.
If the environment is harsh then the coating is going to get contaminated rather quickly. No way around that as coatings are not impervious to contaminants. The appearance of those orange specs indicates that your area could have higher levels of fall out or it is from the brake material being flung around in the harsh weather.
The other thing is that M205's trade secret oils need a couple prep wipes to fully remove them. It is possible that the DIY IPA solution did not remove them. But based on the coatings performance in your last video CSL looks to be performing fine.
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
What car soap do you use?
Do you remember the dilution of the ipa you used?
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
Thank you!
You raise a valid point about leftover polishing oils from M205... Very possible that is the case. However you do seem to say that the CSL appears to be performing as it should. Should I then try to apply EXO on top?
Also, I forget my IPA mix ratio, to be honest, but it came recommended on this forum somewhere. Next time I will buy the actual panel wipes to be sure?
I use Chemical Guy Concentrated Citrus Clean Wash, using 1 capful per 4 gallons of water (about 1 oz). Used 2 capfuls to do my strip wash along with a bit of degreaser and Dawn in the mix.
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
Is it the CG Citrus Wash & Gloss?
If so it can be that the glossenhancers in the car soap degrade the water behavior by glogging it. And if you like gtechnic they have the g-wash which is an one that leaves nothing behind. I like Carpro Reset car soap as it's made for coatings and leaves nothing behind and rinse off clean. Unfortuneally some car soap is not so coating friendly as the addetives is masking and clogging the coatings. And some are the surfactans used in them hard to rinse off. Also have in mind that when useing car soap as prewash foam it's often too high of concentration and is more risk to clogging the water behavior and self cleaning ability. And also some prewash foams has protection and or glossenhancers in them that do the same. Gyeon Foam and gtechnic w4 citrus foam and GG Surface Wash is some options of prewash foams that are good to use on coatings. So a switch to another car soap can make your CSL behavior and self cleaning ability gets better after 2-3 washes.
Re: Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
nvestr
Thank you!
You raise a valid point about leftover polishing oils from M205... Very possible that is the case. However you do seem to say that the CSL appears to be performing as it should. Should I then try to apply EXO on top?
Also, I forget my IPA mix ratio, to be honest, but it came recommended on this forum somewhere. Next time I will buy the actual panel wipes to be sure?
I use Chemical Guy Concentrated Citrus Clean Wash, using 1 capful per 4 gallons of water (about 1 oz). Used 2 capfuls to do my strip wash along with a bit of degreaser and Dawn in the mix.
Exo will add that tight water beading compared to CSL. Have one of my cars coated CSL + Exo V3 along with some areas that just have CSL. The difference is noticeable with Exo having that tighter water beading and CSL sheeting more.
I have no experience with that shampoo but Tony brings up a valid point. Soaps with gloss enhancers or waxes will alter the hydrophobic properties of the coating. You essentially want something that does not have either of those.
