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Rotary polisher?
I have a torq 22d dual action, and is going to do some paint correction type work on a car, like wet sanding on a scratch removal job after clear coating, would the torq 22d do the job. Or if I have to get a rotary
What machine would you recommend ?
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Super Member
Re: Rotary polisher?
I haven't had much luck getting out wet sanding marks with the orbital but maybe other others have.
I would use a rotary myself and then use the torq to remove swirls and such.,maybe borrow one if you don't want to buy one.
Is this the big scratch on your hood?,,if it is I assume you are touching it up and then putting clear on and wet sanding it?
That should work pretty good as I've done it on a few cars .
“I have trouble with names and faces, but I never forget a car.”
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Re: Rotary polisher?
It is possible with a DA. But you really need to go in the higher grits to make it look right.
Example: go up to 2500-3000 grit then compound with Men 300 or 400. Then go from there.
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Super Member
Re: Rotary polisher?
The orbital can do the job. It will take longer. Like others have stated, try and finish to the highest possible grit, and have some fun.
Remember liquid polishes and compounds are basics liquid sand paper, and the tools are based on machine sanders. As long as you keep those abrasives scooting over the paint, you should find success.
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Super Member
Re: Rotary polisher?
Originally Posted by Farmallluvr
I haven't had much luck getting out wet sanding marks with the orbital but maybe other others have.
I would use a rotary myself and then use the torq to remove swirls and such.,maybe borrow one if you don't want to buy one.
Is this the big scratch on your hood?,,if it is I assume you are touching it up and then putting clear on and wet sanding it?
That should work pretty good as I've done it on a few cars .
I have not used the Torq 22D so my experience comes from using the machine it was copied from: The Rupes Bigfoot 21ES.
On a DA, you have to max out agressiveness to remove sand paper scratches. So that means 3 things:
Get a smaller backplate to install smaller pads. The ideal pad size is 5 inches
Get agressive pads, MicroFiber cutting disks are very efficient at removing sandpaper scratches. Otherwise you can use foam cutting pads but they are a lot less efficient.
Get a good compound, I use mostly Meguiars D300 and M105 but there are plenty of cutting compounds on the market that work well.
So in terms of what you can do, the most agressive sand paper marks I have removed so far is 1500 grit. It depends on what type of paint you are trying to remove it. For exemple, on german paint like on BMW, Audi or Mercedes, it's much more difficult to achieve and requires more work. On Asian paint like Toyota and Honda you can do it in 1 slow pass most of the time.
One thing you can do is use finer grit sand paper to save time. So let's say you did the work with 1500 grit, you could use 2500 or 3000 grit to refine the scratch pattern before using the polisher and compound to make the job a lot easier. 3000 grit marks and be removed by a 6 inch heaving polishing pad and light compound. So it all depends on the combination of these factors.
I would not get a rotary just for that, it's simply not needed. Just make sure to have all grades of sand paper that detailers use (1500, 2000, 2500, 3000) and you will be able to tackle any job on any type of paint.
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Super Member
Re: Rotary polisher?
Here is my opinion on the subject. A DA can pretty much achieve anything a rotary can do, it just takes longer. Of course the right buffing liquid and pad are a must.
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Super Member
Re: Rotary polisher?
It’s possible to do any work on any defect with any decent polisher of any type.
Polishes are just abrasives / sandpaper. They are all removing material (clear). The variation is the aggressiveness or the speed at which they remove paint. All polishing with abrasives removes some paint - regardless of machine.
So, technically - you don’t need a rotary for anything. It is a faster way to remove material. But, only you can decide if it’s worth is for the skill set you have and the amount of work you are planning on doing.
Today there is a lot out there to make DA polishers very aggressive. If it’s just a one time deal - you may be better served by getting aggressive pads & buffing liquids. If it’s going to be your career - maybe get a rotary.
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Super Member
Re: Rotary polisher?
This is a vide I made removing 2000 grit with a 1st gen Porter Cable 7424. YouTube
It sucks, but you can see the results. I'm not used to buffing and recording at the same time.
I used Meguiar's M100 (four drops to prep, two on reload) and a new version of the Lake Country green CCS pad.
I got all but the lightest bit of texture. One more set of passes took care of it though. The green Buff and Shine might have done the trick. I doubt I'd have the same success with an Orange or yellow pad though.
A microfiber pad would be an obvious choice, but I much more prefer foam. It's just so much easier to work with.
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Re: Rotary polisher?
Ok, now the question for me is what speed do I wet sand at?
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Super Member
Re: Rotary polisher?
Originally Posted by Indiglofish61
Ok, now the question for me is what speed do I wet sand at?
I machine sand at speed 1 or 2.
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