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  1. #11
    Junior Member ChristyZ's Avatar
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    Re: I think I found a system that is as good as Dr. Colorchip.....

    Quote Originally Posted by supra90 View Post
    I have always been a do it youself kind of person. I was thinking about getting Dr. Colorchip, but paying that much for touch up paint and a solvent just didn't seem right. I know Dr. Colorchip paint is designed so the "blending solution" will work. I think they just put some paint thinner into the touch up paint. The system I use which I use for very small chips (less than 1 mm in diameter and not deep) is a combo of dealer touchup paint and nail polish remover. I get these very tiny chips on the front of my car, some of them about the size of a pinhead. So I used one of those tiny touch up brushes or a tooth pick and put in a tiny dab of touchup. Then I let it dry for about 5 minutes and carefully remove the excess with the acetone. It does not hurt my good paint and it seems to blend it nicely. I guess waiting longer, like waiting an hour might be better. I just want the paint to harden somewhat but still be workable. Remember, these are for very small chips some the size of a pin point to 1mm. The kind of damage you get from very small pebbles and dirt. Curious what your thoughts are about this? I could include pics.
    Awesome idea. Thanks!

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  2. #12
    Senior Member RippyD's Avatar
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    Re: I think I found a system that is as good as Dr. Colorchip.....

    I do something similar. It takes time. I get very fine brushes or hard foam paint applicators - will post a picture when I find them. (See below - no pics and no link - not sold here). I prep the chip by washing and drying, usually with air. Sometimes I'll take a tiny piece of sandpaper to it - most chips are too small. An sharpened pencil eraser can work as well. Then have to clean it again.

    I also use a magnifying glass or headband magnifiers - being able to see the details helps a lot.

    I've also use touch up paint mixed with clear. Got this tip from a detailer on Youtube. Depending on the color this can work pretty well. As you build up the paint it's less noticeable that the chip doesn't have clear.

    And for a big chips that I really want to look even I'll wet sand after filling. This is not for the faint of heart and will remove paint around the chip. I suspect you need to be really stupid or really confident to do this. It's worked well, but is quite a bit of work and can be stressful.

    NOTE: I'm not a pro and not recommending this. After trying a few other things this works for me. It's somewhat risky.


    EDIT: I use small applicators called "Micro Applicator Brushes" where the size is labeled "superfine" and 1.0mm. Essentially a plastic stick with a tiny bit of foam on the end. Can still be too large for the smallest chips.
    2006 LR3 White // 2014 Boxster Agate Gray // 2012 Sentra Blue Onyx

  3. #13
    Senior Member MarkD51's Avatar
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    Re: I think I found a system that is as good as Dr. Colorchip.....

    Quote Originally Posted by supra90 View Post
    I have always been a do it youself kind of person. I was thinking about getting Dr. Colorchip, but paying that much for touch up paint and a solvent just didn't seem right. I know Dr. Colorchip paint is designed so the "blending solution" will work. I think they just put some paint thinner into the touch up paint. The system I use which I use for very small chips (less than 1 mm in diameter and not deep) is a combo of dealer touchup paint and nail polish remover. I get these very tiny chips on the front of my car, some of them about the size of a pinhead. So I used one of those tiny touch up brushes or a tooth pick and put in a tiny dab of touchup. Then I let it dry for about 5 minutes and carefully remove the excess with the acetone. It does not hurt my good paint and it seems to blend it nicely. I guess waiting longer, like waiting an hour might be better. I just want the paint to harden somewhat but still be workable. Remember, these are for very small chips some the size of a pin point to 1mm. The kind of damage you get from very small pebbles and dirt. Curious what your thoughts are about this? I could include pics.
    Your method seems to mimic Dr. Colrochip's methods-principles quite closely.

    AFAIK, and when asking Mr McCool at Dr. C-Chip about what to use to slightly thin the mixture in an old bottle of their paint, he recommended Acetone.

    I'm no chemical engineer to tell you what the base solvents are in their paint, nor what are in dealer, or Duracolor, or Auto Paint Supply House formulas?

    One local Auto Supply Shop I spoke with here about 6 months back, when I asked him about his paints (at $7 a Jar) he said they were Acrylic Based.

    So, with that said, will Acetone, or the Dr. C-Chip Sealact solution behave the same way with those Acrylic Based Paints? I have no idea, but sure would like to know for personal beneficial knowledge.

    Over the past few days I've been using my Dr C-Chip Kit on my '97 Tahoe pictured in my avatar. I used a brand new fresh bottle of Summit White I had gotten from them, and had a brand new fresh bottle of the Sealact Solution on hand.

    I love their system, but the learning curves which it seemed like I had to learn all over again here in the Midwest, is getting the hang of drying times, and how long to wait?

    Could be that there was a slight difference in formulations, but the few to ten minutes time I typically used to do was too short a time, paint hadn't properly set. So I had to wait a bit longer, like 15-20 minutes before I could go further.

    Then I had to work harder, and use more Sealact Solution(which isn't cheap either) to level, but I think it is better to err on too long, rather than too short a time.

    The touch up I've been doing is mostly on the lower rocker panels, from kicked up gravel from the now present BFG AT Tires , and all I'll say without the need of a moderator censoring my post, is it is a real pistol when you're working on your back on a gravel driveway, laying on your back on a sheet of cardboard and dabbing the paint upwards onto a panel. (one has to excercise a bit of patience, and perseverance to succeed)

    One beauty of the Dr. C-Chip Paint, and unlike dealer/paint shop sourced touch up paints, is their paint sets quite fast, meaning less in the way of running-sagging when applying. As all know, chips can occur anywhere on a vehicle, they're often never so "conveniently placed" like on a horizontal panel such as a hood, roof, trunk.

    I've monkeyed with dealer-Duracolor Paints in the past, they sometimes take literal hours to set, run-sag, and the attempts of touch up look horribly amateurish at best. I've seen many other's attempts not look much better.

    About the only minor quirps I have with Dr. Chip is there can be a slight difference in matching, it's not sometimes perfect, as I recently noticed again a paint that looks a little bit more "greyish" than my Summit White Paint. Not the first time I had difficulties with their paint matching my truck.

    The other quirp is that this time I've noted a difficulty "filling" the chip with just one application, or due to paint drying havoc had to re-do a few chips again, cause I removed too much with the Sealact product.

    In highly critical areas, one, as I found might have to repeat an application an additional 1, 2, maybe 3 times to fill the void to then come away with a level fill.

    About all I can say with my makeshift attempts over the past few days on the Tahoe, and on areas where you need a creeper to see such, I got a considerable improvement of removing and hiding a lot of the stone chip damage.

    If I have the time, I might toy around again with some more application layers here and there, because I'm fussy-particular, but I basically wanted to fill and place some paint on this stone chip damage to stave off rust that could be caused by upcoming winter road salts here. (which is brutal! LOL)

    Hope my ramblings were of some worth. But overall, yeah, the Dr. C-Chip system is a little pricey, but in relation to the cost of our vehicles, I feel it's a small price to pay for some good repair to our beloved vehicles.

    About the only big wish I'd have of their system, there is no clear color to deal with minor key scratches-etc, where the color layer hasn't been compromised. Not sure if they sell a clear, but cannot find it on their website?

  4. #14
    Senior Member RippyD's Avatar
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    Re: I think I found a system that is as good as Dr. Colorchip.....

    I struggle to keep paint where I want it with Dr. Colorchip. I'll do 3-4 (or more applications) and then just call it good. I never get close to leveling with Dr. Colorchip. Every time I try to remove the excess some paint comes out of the chip as well. If there's a better way to do this I'm all ears.

    One more tip I got from here or elsewhere: I cover my paint around the chip with paste wax. The paint you smear won't stick to it and easily wipes off. Has worked well for me.
    2006 LR3 White // 2014 Boxster Agate Gray // 2012 Sentra Blue Onyx

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