Mustang Paint Correction Advice

[LSNAutoDetailing]

Taking a page out of Mike Phillips book, whenever I'm sent a PM asking questions, I like to answer it here to the forum so that it can open the question and answer up to a larger audience and others can participate. Today's question:

Hello! I just got done reading your informative post on regarding the mustang read deck lid! I know this is a bit off topic to your post, but I've recently gotten into detailing and I want to do a paint correction to my 2016 (black) GT. It currently has collinite845 that is maintained with Megs Synthetic X-Press spray wax. About a year back I purchased a TorqX with the Hex Logic pads from CG. I completely stripped the waxes (clayed/IronX). The swirls are moderate mainly installed by the dealer. Their V line polishes and compounds did not finish down well at all. I would be left over with mirco marring from the polishes and compounds not finishing well. I became frustrated and gave up. It's been about a year now and I'm willing to give this paint correction thing another try.

I read that HD speed finished pretty well on the mustang you corrected. I'm considering purchasing it, I'm not looking for 100% correction but anywhere from 80-90% correction.

What advice can you give me? Sorry for the lengthy explanation!

Thank You!

First off, congrats on the 2016 Mustang GT. Remember, "black is not a color it's a full time job." ~ Mike Phillips

I first want to correct something, when I detailed my 2016 Mustang I used BOSS Correcting Cream on BOSS orange pads and GG G-15. Since I knew I was going to install CQUK, HD Speed would not have been an option. If you're looking to get good correction and protection, HD Speed is good, but it is an All In One. If more correction is required I would suggest moving up on the cut-scale. Secondly, I personally cannot speak to the products and pads you are using as I have never tried them. My product lineup consists of many compounds, polishes, such as Pinnacle, Menzerna, Meguiar's, Griot's Garage and 3D. Pads are Rupes, BOSS, Lake Country and Buff-N-Shine (BNS, haven't used yet). So I cannot speak to the pads and products you are using. In my travels throughout the forum, the products you mentioned have garnered a hit or miss review. My suggestion is to look into McKee's, Uber, PInnacle, Blackfire, etc.. Exceptional products that deliver amazing results. I'm also itching to try the 3D ONE when it hits the market.

The best thing to do is a test spot:

How To Do a Test Spot
This will help dial in the proper pad and product to meet your level of expectations. This will also eliminate spending an entire day and not getting the results you expect.

Once you've dialed in your test spot, you want to do a proper section pass, slowing your arm speed with overlapping passes, usually 6-8 in a 16"x16" section.


The key is proper pads, product, slow arm movement, proper amount of pressure, and ensure that you have rotation on the pad. Also, make sure you change your pads out often, or clean on the fly. Cleaning on the fly is good at first, but a pad can become saturated, heavy, wet and filled with gunk. At this point you are not correcting any more. I typically will use 6 pads to cut, and 4 to polish. Work clean, use fresh high grade MF towels, switch them out often as well.

Don't give up, many others here will chime in and help as well. You're on the right path...

[Kamakaz1961]

I have a 2013 Black Mustang GT with the Track Package. It's a 24/7 thing to take care of. Just staring it causes swirls. There is something that I learned when correcting. I use a little more product than usual when working with black paint. Additionally, I will change the pads mores often than a different colored car. That seems to be working the best for me.

The hardest thing for me to learn; my ride will always have very little swirls from the external elements. There is only so much clear coat you have on your ride....so I live with that. To 99% of the poeple that see my car they say they see a beautiful swirl free ride....me as I said before I have to live with it!...LOL

[Dr Oldz]

If it’s any help, I just did a 15 Stang in black and it was extremely soft paint.

Anyway the process I used was:

Menzerna FG500 for spot repair on a 3 inch MF pad with rotary to take care of a few Rids.
Menzerna 2500 with a Lake Country Hydro tech tangerine
Menzerna 3800 with a Lake Country HT crimson.

All pads were fully primed with no dry spots and I used about 10 pads for both polishing operations. Quality MFs were a must.

Finished with BF Blackice

Came out great but getting a test spot to come how I wanted was a hood full of test spots.

Hope this may help

[dlc95]

If it’s any help, I just did a 15 Stang in black and it was extremely soft paint.

Anyway the process I used was:

Menzerna FG500 for spot repair on a 3 inch MF pad with rotary to take care of a few Rids.
Menzerna 2500 with a Lake Country Hydro tech tangerine
Menzerna 3800 with a Lake Country HT crimson.

All pads were fully primed with no dry spots and I used about 10 pads for both polishing operations. Quality MFs were a must.

Finished with BF Blackice

Came out great but getting a test spot to come how I wanted was a hood full of test spots.

Hope this may help

2500 on Tangerine Hydros are a godsend for soft paints.