need advice on wax/spray waxes for weekly washes, new to all this

[mayberry]

I use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax religiously. It works great and is reasonably priced. It's great to add after every wash, and takes only 5 minutes to apply. it doesn't stain plastic trim and is just easy to work with. Unless I find something better for the same price, I don't plan on changing.

[The Guz]

I initially posted this over at the ClubLexus forum (which is how I found this forum) but didn't get much help regarding spray waxes/detailer sprays used while drying, so I thought since this whole site is about car care, I might as well give it a shot here.
As the title states, I'm new to this proper way of car washing. I first started to compile a list of things to buy so I could give my car a thorough wash/clay/wax… but then I started to read about polishing and I cut myself off. I know I could buy the things needed to do ALL these things myself and learn to do them properly, but I already have an expensive hobby (records) that takes up my spare $$$ and time. I've since decided that I'm gonna pay someone else to do a real good job once or maybe twice a year - and I’ll do the rest. I'm either gonna have a full paint correction + coating done relatively soon, or just pay for a good detail/polish/sealant sooner and get the correction/coating later, maybe in 6 months (seeing as it's upwards of $1k if you want it done by someone who actually knows what they're doing).
So for my maintenance washes... Here's what I have so far:
EXTERIOR:

• 2 grit guards + 2 5-gal HD buckets
• Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo
• Gilmour Cleaning Sprayer Foamaster II Multi-ratio Spray Gun
• Chemical Guys wash mitt
• Meguiar’s Supreme Shine Microfiber towels (2x 3-packs)
• 1 Meg's Water Magnet Drying towel
• 1 Rag company Eagle Edgeless 500 towels
• 1 Rag Company Edgeless 300 towels

INTERIOR:

• Meguiar’s Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner
• Aerospace Protectant 303 Matte
• Stoner Invisible Glass aerosol

I was not going to get a foam gun initially but then an Amazon lightning deal happened and that was that. I also get a lot of bee pollen on my car and the occasional bird bomb so I think it’ll help loosen those up as a prewash. Here’s what else I've been considering & my associated questions:

• Collinite 845 Insulator Wax… I like the water beading capabilities and the fact that this can (from what I’ve read) easily be applied by hand. I know to thin it by placing the bottle in a bowl of hot water and shaking the crap out of it prior to use. Any recommendations on foam pads are welcome. Something about a wax like this seems like it'll be thicker and last longer than a spray wax like Optimum Car Wax... which leads me to...
• Optimum Car Wax spray... I'm drawn to the serious ease of application with this one (just use while drying? Easy enough!), as well as the UVA/UVB protection. My car's parked outside 24/7 - at home in direct sun from sunrise to sunset (no shade at any point in time, which is quite remarkable for LA), and at work, also in direct sun, unless I park under the tree every bird in the neighborhood decided to call home (lose/lose) I'm thinking of using the Collinite maybe every two months, but the Optimum Wax at the end of every wash. Is that overkill? Is there such a thing as too much wax? Also - my water is not the best - without having to buy a mineral filter attachment for my hose, is mixing the hard water and spray wax problematic? Am I embedding the harsh minerals into the wax, allowing it to seep into my paint? I don't know how science works, this is just my brain's logic.
• Optimum Powerclean... I have heard good things about Optimum Powerclean so I am considering that for stubborn bee pollen which is not easily removed without a fair amount of pressure - and if I've learned anything from these forums it's that pressure is the enemy. Would it be pointless to use the Optimum Powerclean prior & in conjunction with the foaming to help loosen up bee pollen? Bee pollen (aside from dust) is my new mortal enemy. Each day there's significantly more bee pollen than the last. My driveway is surrounded by rose bushes so there's no avoiding it.
• ONR Wash & Shine... I’m not thrilled on the rinseless wash method due to the amount of dust and everything my car accumulates in just 5 days, let alone a week. I don't think I could get the things most hazardous to the paint removed this way, BUT - I could see its use in cleaning off just bird poop from a section when I don't have the time to wash it. But wouldn't I also be able to do this with Optimum Powerclean? I know its also a great clay bar lube, but I'm not sure how often I will be clay baring my car just yet. I'm sure I'll have to eventually, and I'll cross that bridge when it comes. Right now, my goal is just beneficial maintenance washes.

Sorry for the super long post. I’ve been lurking here and on other detailing sites, but I'm suffering from serious information overload. Between car washing and then trying to figure out what tires and brake pads to get - it’s a bit overwhelming. I appreciate everyone who posts here - I’m sure my car’s paint will appreciate it, too!!

I reread your post. I am going to recommend getting more towels. The Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels are nice for everything but drying. They do not absorb very well. The water magnet is ok but get yourself a couple more as they get saturated fairly quickly. I would consider looking into a Griot's PFM, Gyeon Silk Dryer or TRC's Twist n Shout.

What are you looking to accomplish with that one eagle edgeless 500? Same question for that single edgeless 300?

I also did not see any towels for glass.

Feel free to ask if you have any questions. If you are looking to do this on your own it's not overly complicated. One weekend if that and you will be set in polishing your own personal vehicle. Products like Gyeon CanCoat, which is a coating lite, is a good product to start with and is user friendly. Not a full coating but a good start. Will get you close to a year of durability here in Southern California.

[JustJesus]

Welcome to the forum!

Like The Guz said, nice to have another guy from So Cal.

Being in So Cal, I'm mostly a rinseless wash guy. I do also hit the coin-op places for some of my cars. It's not like I baby my Jeep, after all.

I like your well written and thorough post. I see you have reservations on rinseless If you want, you can come on over and I'll demonstrate how I do on one of my cars. And if you want to get your feet wet with polishing, waxing, claying, etc, you can practice on one of my cars. Then there's Meguiar's training over in Irvine. Just another resource for you to check out!

This is a great forum, and any questions you have, don't be shy to ask. Lot's of great help here. Lots of knowledgeable guys. Lots of sales. hehe.

edit Oh, almost forgot! I have no less than 5 spray waxes you are free to try out. See what you like before you go out and make a purchase.

[6od]

Thank you all for your replies - I really appreciate it! Apparently I need to turn on email notifications. Also, I got the OCW already because it was in my Amazon cart and put me over the same day delivery threshold (sorry, Autogeek! don't yell at me).

You've got great list there
i recommend Meguiars D110 Hyper Wash if you like Gold Class: Meguiars Hyper-Wash is a concetrated car wash for frequent or professional detailing. Super foaming, long lasting car shampoo from Meguiars.
As for microfibers for drying large: Griots Garage PFM Terry Weave Drying Towel
Small: Griots Garage PFM Terry Weave Towel, Set of 2
Great all purpose towel use by expert here: Gold Plush Jr. Microfiber Towels 12 Pack
You're good on Collinite 845 and Optimum Spray wax
There are many great stuff out there on https://www.autogeek.net just look around
Collinite 845 every 2 month & Optimum spray wax after every wash is completely good regimen✌️
Mixing spray wax and hard water (drying aid?) is not a problem at all unless you mean diluting with concentrate like ONR which i prefer distilled water
ONR Wash & Shine or any rinseless/waterless wash is very economical for removing bird poop. Optimum power clean (OPC) is a good degreaser and is aggressive depends on your dilution (with distilled water).
A very nice article worth reading: How to safely remove a dried bird dropping by Mike Phillips
I believe most geeks here also play performance and have great knowledge.Nothing to be shy asking, we've been that new guy too
Peace

I will definitely check out that Meguiar's wash next. What is the advantage to it over the Gold Class (just wondering)? I've seen the Griots Garage PFM towel and I know it is the best - however with the $40 price tag, I have been hesitant. I also prefer using smaller towels and didn't know about the smaller versions so I may get those. I find them easier to wring out to the point they're nearly dry.

More than bird poop, my main problem is bee pollen. My car looks like a grey Dalmatian with yellow spots in just a few days. Bird poop has always been relatively easy to remove, but not bee pollen. That's why I'm concerned that rinseless washes might not get it all. I think I'm gonna get a small bottle of ONR to try it out anyway.

Also, you interpreted my hard water/spray wax question correctly - and I'm relieved. For dilution, I would only ever use distilled water. I collect records and use distilled water all the time. I just got 5 gallon jugs delivered the other day.

You can probably skip collinite 845 all together and just use the optimum wax weekly to be honest. And try and clean off those bird bombs asap. What I do is I keep a quick detailer in the car with a MF towel just in case. I use ONR and a quick detailer just so you know.

Isn't ONR also capable of being a quick detailer? Or do you mean ONR for washes and then a different detailer to follow?
Re: keeping a bottle of QD in the car - I would like to be able to do this, but my car gets SO HOT. If I ever forget a bottle of water in the car even just for an hour, it's like drinking blank tea. I can't imagine that's good for the solutions, right? I really never have shade (ever). And I've yet to get my windows tinted but am going to ASAP because it's just a necessity at this point.

Waxing with 845 every 60 days? That's not a regimen I'd like to follow. I frankly don't have that kind of time. Move to a 4 to 6 months sealant either an SIO2 product or a polymer. Much easier -wipe on walk away no need to get that white haze out of the cracks, out of the badges etc. never again, too much work for me.
this is carpro Essence polish (by hand) and wipe on Reload-no buffing, 3 hours total work.

Carpro Essence with orbital and mckee's wipe on 10 min paint sealant:

What's an SIO2? I've thought about the Hydro2 stuff that you spray and rinse, but am hesitant because - well, I'm new. Also the Essence polish, is a sealant right? I finally got it straight in my head that polishing means removing layers and not polish, like wood varnish or nail polish.

You are off to a good start. Regarding 845, if you have it, use it. If not, consider 476s instead. It is almost the same but in paste form and easier (my opinion) to deal with. Apply it very thin. I apply it about every 6 months. I'm in NorCal and have sun most of the year. I also use OCW as a drying aid weekly. If you do this you never have to worry about UV or losing gloss. Your paint will look very nice throughout the year if you keep this up.
It sounds like you are OK with weekly washing. If so, then your approach is very good to go. With a weekly wash there is no reason to consider coatings. Coatings are meant for low-maintenance vehicles. Weekly drying with OCW is going to defeat the purpose of paying for the coating. Save your money and keep your paint protected with spray wax. (my opinion only, others will differ).
Consider a quick detailer. It helps with bird poop, gasoline drips and other things you want to clean up without water. You can make your own with waterless/rinseless wash concentrate and a spray bottle. There are many threads here on what to use and how to use it. I just bought some Wolfgang Rinseless concentrate and mixed up a gallon (3 oz to a gallon of water) and this is the best QD that I've used and I've probably used 5 others. You can leave a bottle of QD in your car with some microfiber towels and clean up things when you're away from home, too. In a pinch, it also cleans glass pretty well.

I think I'll have to forego the coating for now anyway (tires & brakes + window tints + this stuff + my dog's vet bills adds up quick). I do want to get the car decontaminated/clayed/polished though (I still haven't done this yet!

). Also I think I might go with the 845 because I'm more comfortable with a liquid (at least, I think I am, really who knows). Also I think with it being liquid I'll be less likely to over apply it, and I like that it can be used on all the trim.
When you use OCW as a drying aid, do you just use your drying towel? Or do you use a different plush microfiber? I feel like there should be towels for OCW as a drying aid, and then separate towels just for regular drying (for when areas/times you don't use the OCW), but correct me if that's not necessary.

Cleaner wax every 3 months
OCW as drying aid every week
Clay bar only if you feel the paint is rough
Just a suggestion. Using cleaner wax every 3 months can save you the step of polishing the paint.

I'm sorry for asking this, but what's cleaner wax, exactly? Also - if I were to clay bar the car myself, which I'm not opposed to so long as I don't have to then polish it myself, then I should decontaminate it as well, correct? This is not a brand new car, it's just new to me - but it's 8 years old. I think it was kept in a garage all its life mostly because the leather is in excellent condition, and there're no signs of sun damage inside or outside. The headlights were crystal clear when I got it two months ago, and now - already a yellow haze. So it's starting.

Speaking of which, if anyone has an opinion on the best UV protective headlight sealant, please let me know. I read somewhere something about Optimum's being one of the only ones proven to prevent blah blah blah that other's couldn't. Admittedly I haven't actually looked into headlight sealants, that's just one I came across.

I reread your post. I am going to recommend getting more towels. The Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels are nice for everything but drying. They do not absorb very well. The water magnet is ok but get yourself a couple more as they get saturated fairly quickly. I would consider looking into a Griot's PFM, Gyeon Silk Dryer or TRC's Twist n Shout.
What are you looking to accomplish with that one eagle edgeless 500? Same question for that single edgeless 300?
I also did not see any towels for glass.
Feel free to ask if you have any questions. If you are looking to do this on your own it's not overly complicated. One weekend if that and you will be set in polishing your own personal vehicle. Products like Gyeon CanCoat, which is a coating lite, is a good product to start with and is user friendly. Not a full coating but a good start. Will get you close to a year of durability here in Southern California.

Yeah I knew I'd need more drying towels but wasn't ready to pull the trigger just yet. I purchased the 500s for the OCW while drying. I didn't think using a specialized drying towel was a good idea with the OCW, because then what about your windows or times you aren't using the OCW? Won't that interfere, somehow? I guess just in an effort to avoid cross-contamination. Is the 500 not a good towel to use for this?

The 300s I got as sort of a better quality all purpose towel, maybe to use some for an eventual QD bird poop situation, and than also for the interior to use with the Meg's Quick Interior Detailer I got, as well as the Aerospace 303 Matte Protectant (I'm also gonna pick up some Woolite, and Leather Masters Protectant). I didn't get them to use for the regular drying of a wet car (unless with wax). Please let me know if my assumptions about using specialized drying towels with OCW are wrong.
I was thinking of getting these for glass: https://www.autogeek.net/ww1627.html

And unless I can use my DeWalt orbital sander to polish (which I'm pretty sure no - although I do have an extension with a pad attachment and buffer for some reason) I don't think I'll be getting into it anytime soon. Give me at least a year.

Also, if you or anyone has any tips on microfiber washing and care please let me know. So far I've washed all my used microfibers with Tide (very little) and put them in the dryer sans dryer sheets on Air Dry. However I read recently that residue from past dryer sheets can remain, so I might give them a couple more washes (or presoak + quick wash) to be sure there's no residue.
The new towels I washed with MicroRestore and am just air drying on pant clips, which is how I'll dry them in the future, too. I have to use dryer sheets for a lot of stuff cause my dog sheds a ton, and it really gets all the hair off/prevents much from sticking again.

Welcome to the forum!
Like The Guz said, nice to have another guy from So Cal.
Being in So Cal, I'm mostly a rinseless wash guy. I do also hit the coin-op places for some of my cars. It's not like I baby my Jeep, after all.
I like your well written and thorough post. I see you have reservations on rinseless If you want, you can come on over and I'll demonstrate how I do on one of my cars. And if you want to get your feet wet with polishing, waxing, claying, etc, you can practice on one of my cars. Then there's Meguiar's training over in Irvine. Just another resource for you to check out!
This is a great forum, and any questions you have, don't be shy to ask. Lot's of great help here. Lots of knowledgeable guys. Lots of sales. hehe.
edit Oh, almost forgot! I have no less than 5 spray waxes you are free to try out. See what you like before you go out and make a purchase.

I tend to overthink things and get information overload, so I have to just right it all out to get a sense of what the hell I'm thinking. But thank you for the compliment!

I WISH I had a decent self-wash coin-op place ANYWHERE near me. Just for the shade and pressure washer alone. But I don't (they're all filthy I guess, and you gotta move quick - I don't think I could bring a bunch of stuff and my own foam gun and buckets). Also I already got the OCW! I haven't used it yet though so we'll see how it goes - but I appreciate the offer. This place seems great! I'm really glad I decided to post here.

My main reservations are the pollen. I'm gonna get a bottle of ONR soon anyway and I'll give it a shot. My car is parked near rose bushes, so the bees splat all over it every morning. There's just nothing I can do about it - and they don't rinse off or remove easily at all. I fear using a degreaser or something harsher so often will just mean I'll have to put something more than a spray wax on it so often. So blasting it with a hose and letting the foam sink in a bit to me is better than having to apply a lot of pressure everywhere (I still have to some places).

The other thing is, I gotta get some kinda tent. The way it is now, I'm constantly wetting the car to prevent the water from drying in the sun. I try to wait til the sun is almost totally gone, which is why I don't want to take on too many other steps in washing. I just don't have the time - I have about 1 hour of clear visibility, and then the sun sets and I pray I got EVERYTHING dry. I have a long driveway, but it's parallel to the sun. All. Day. I kinda lost my way with what my point was here and I realize this just makes more of an argument to do rinseless/waterless washes... and I promise I will try them. But polishing, claying, etc... In due time. For the Collinite, I plan to pull the car into the yard and wax it one half at a time. I get half the car in shade around 5pm back there... but right now, my 99 Volvo is sitting there waiting for me to decide what to do with it.

---------------------

Thanks again everyone for your responses, I really appreciate it! Apologies again for the super long post - I'm overly thorough.

One last question: How do you deal with not being able to see the roof of your car? I mean, I can see it, but not the way I can see the hood or trunk. Just use a stool, or what?

[6od]

Thank you all for your replies - I really appreciate it! Apparently I need to turn on email notifications. Also, I got the OCW already because it was in my Amazon cart and put me over the same day delivery threshold (sorry, Autogeek! don't yell at me).

You've got great list there
i recommend Meguiars D110 Hyper Wash if you like Gold Class: Meguiars Hyper-Wash is a concetrated car wash for frequent or professional detailing. Super foaming, long lasting car shampoo from Meguiars.
As for microfibers for drying large: Griots Garage PFM Terry Weave Drying Towel
Small: Griots Garage PFM Terry Weave Towel, Set of 2
Great all purpose towel use by expert here: Gold Plush Jr. Microfiber Towels 12 Pack
You're good on Collinite 845 and Optimum Spray wax
There are many great stuff out there on https://www.autogeek.net just look around
Collinite 845 every 2 month & Optimum spray wax after every wash is completely good regimen✌️
Mixing spray wax and hard water (drying aid?) is not a problem at all unless you mean diluting with concentrate like ONR which i prefer distilled water
ONR Wash & Shine or any rinseless/waterless wash is very economical for removing bird poop. Optimum power clean (OPC) is a good degreaser and is aggressive depends on your dilution (with distilled water).
A very nice article worth reading: How to safely remove a dried bird dropping by Mike Phillips
I believe most geeks here also play performance and have great knowledge.Nothing to be shy asking, we've been that new guy too
Peace

I will definitely check out that Meguiar's wash next. What is the advantage to it over the Gold Class (just wondering)? I've seen the Griots Garage PFM towel and I know it is the best - however with the $40 price tag, I have been hesitant. I also prefer using smaller towels and didn't know about the smaller versions so I may get those. I find them easier to wring out to the point they're nearly dry.

More than bird poop, my main problem is bee pollen. My car looks like a grey Dalmatian with yellow spots in just a few days. Bird poop has always been relatively easy to remove, but not bee pollen. That's why I'm concerned that rinseless washes might not get it all. I think I'm gonna get a small bottle of ONR to try it out anyway.

Also, you interpreted my hard water/spray wax question correctly - and I'm relieved. For dilution, I would only ever use distilled water. I collect records and use distilled water all the time. I just got 5 gallon jugs delivered the other day.

You can probably skip collinite 845 all together and just use the optimum wax weekly to be honest. And try and clean off those bird bombs asap. What I do is I keep a quick detailer in the car with a MF towel just in case. I use ONR and a quick detailer just so you know.

Isn't ONR also capable of being a quick detailer? Or do you mean ONR for washes and then a different detailer to follow?
Re: keeping a bottle of QD in the car - I would like to be able to do this, but my car gets SO HOT. If I ever forget a bottle of water in the car even just for an hour, it's like drinking blank tea. I can't imagine that's good for the solutions, right? I really never have shade (ever). And I've yet to get my windows tinted but am going to ASAP because it's just a necessity at this point.

Waxing with 845 every 60 days? That's not a regimen I'd like to follow. I frankly don't have that kind of time. Move to a 4 to 6 months sealant either an SIO2 product or a polymer. Much easier -wipe on walk away no need to get that white haze out of the cracks, out of the badges etc. never again, too much work for me.
this is carpro Essence polish (by hand) and wipe on Reload-no buffing, 3 hours total work.

Carpro Essence with orbital and mckee's wipe on 10 min paint sealant:

What's an SIO2? I've thought about the Hydro2 stuff that you spray and rinse, but am hesitant because - well, I'm new. Also the Essence polish, is a sealant right? I finally got it straight in my head that polishing means removing layers and not polish, like wood varnish or nail polish.

You are off to a good start. Regarding 845, if you have it, use it. If not, consider 476s instead. It is almost the same but in paste form and easier (my opinion) to deal with. Apply it very thin. I apply it about every 6 months. I'm in NorCal and have sun most of the year. I also use OCW as a drying aid weekly. If you do this you never have to worry about UV or losing gloss. Your paint will look very nice throughout the year if you keep this up.
It sounds like you are OK with weekly washing. If so, then your approach is very good to go. With a weekly wash there is no reason to consider coatings. Coatings are meant for low-maintenance vehicles. Weekly drying with OCW is going to defeat the purpose of paying for the coating. Save your money and keep your paint protected with spray wax. (my opinion only, others will differ).
Consider a quick detailer. It helps with bird poop, gasoline drips and other things you want to clean up without water. You can make your own with waterless/rinseless wash concentrate and a spray bottle. There are many threads here on what to use and how to use it. I just bought some Wolfgang Rinseless concentrate and mixed up a gallon (3 oz to a gallon of water) and this is the best QD that I've used and I've probably used 5 others. You can leave a bottle of QD in your car with some microfiber towels and clean up things when you're away from home, too. In a pinch, it also cleans glass pretty well.

I think I'll have to forego the coating for now anyway (tires & brakes + window tints + this stuff + my dog's vet bills adds up quick). I do want to get the car decontaminated/clayed/polished though (I still haven't done this yet! ). Also I think I might go with the 845 because I'm more comfortable with a liquid (at least, I think I am, really who knows). Also I think with it being liquid I'll be less likely to over apply it, and I like that it can be used on all the trim.
When you use OCW as a drying aid, do you just use your drying towel? Or do you use a different plush microfiber? I feel like there should be towels for OCW as a drying aid, and then separate towels just for regular drying (for when areas/times you don't use the OCW), but correct me if that's not necessary.

Cleaner wax every 3 months
OCW as drying aid every week
Clay bar only if you feel the paint is rough
Just a suggestion. Using cleaner wax every 3 months can save you the step of polishing the paint.

I'm sorry for asking this, but what's cleaner wax, exactly? Also - if I were to clay bar the car myself, which I'm not opposed to so long as I don't have to then polish it myself, then I should decontaminate it as well, correct? This is not a brand new car, it's just new to me - but it's 8 years old. I think it was kept in a garage all its life mostly because the leather is in excellent condition, and there're no signs of sun damage inside or outside. The headlights were crystal clear when I got it two months ago, and now - already a yellow haze. So it's starting.

Speaking of which, if anyone has an opinion on the best UV protective headlight sealant, please let me know. I read somewhere something about Optimum's being one of the only ones proven to prevent blah blah blah that other's couldn't. Admittedly I haven't actually looked into headlight sealants, that's just one I came across.

I reread your post. I am going to recommend getting more towels. The Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels are nice for everything but drying. They do not absorb very well. The water magnet is ok but get yourself a couple more as they get saturated fairly quickly. I would consider looking into a Griot's PFM, Gyeon Silk Dryer or TRC's Twist n Shout.
What are you looking to accomplish with that one eagle edgeless 500? Same question for that single edgeless 300?
I also did not see any towels for glass.
Feel free to ask if you have any questions. If you are looking to do this on your own it's not overly complicated. One weekend if that and you will be set in polishing your own personal vehicle. Products like Gyeon CanCoat, which is a coating lite, is a good product to start with and is user friendly. Not a full coating but a good start. Will get you close to a year of durability here in Southern California.

Yeah I knew I'd need more drying towels but wasn't ready to pull the trigger just yet. I purchased the 500s for the OCW while drying. I didn't think using a specialized drying towel was a good idea with the OCW, because then what about your windows or times you aren't using the OCW? Won't that interfere, somehow? I guess just in an effort to avoid cross-contamination. Is the 500 not a good towel to use for this?

The 300s I got as sort of a better quality all purpose towel, maybe to use some for an eventual QD bird poop situation, and than also for the interior to use with the Meg's Quick Interior Detailer I got, as well as the Aerospace 303 Matte Protectant (I'm also gonna pick up some Woolite, and Leather Masters Protectant). I didn't get them to use for the regular drying of a wet car (unless with wax). Please let me know if my assumptions about using specialized drying towels with OCW are wrong.
I was thinking of getting these for glass: The Cobra Waffle Weave Microfiber Glass Towel cleans & buffs glass to crystal clarity with the soft texture of genuine Cobra microfiber.

And unless I can use my DeWalt orbital sander to polish (which I'm pretty sure no - although I do have an extension with a pad attachment and buffer for some reason) I don't think I'll be getting into it anytime soon. Give me at least a year.

Also, if you or anyone has any tips on microfiber washing and care please let me know. So far I've washed all my used microfibers with Tide (very little) and put them in the dryer sans dryer sheets on Air Dry. However I read recently that residue from past dryer sheets can remain, so I might give them a couple more washes (or presoak + quick wash) to be sure there's no residue.
The new towels I washed with MicroRestore and am just air drying on pant clips, which is how I'll dry them in the future, too. I have to use dryer sheets for a lot of stuff cause my dog sheds a ton, and it really gets all the hair off/prevents much from sticking again.

Welcome to the forum!
Like The Guz said, nice to have another guy from So Cal.
Being in So Cal, I'm mostly a rinseless wash guy. I do also hit the coin-op places for some of my cars. It's not like I baby my Jeep, after all.
I like your well written and thorough post. I see you have reservations on rinseless If you want, you can come on over and I'll demonstrate how I do on one of my cars. And if you want to get your feet wet with polishing, waxing, claying, etc, you can practice on one of my cars. Then there's Meguiar's training over in Irvine. Just another resource for you to check out!
This is a great forum, and any questions you have, don't be shy to ask. Lot's of great help here. Lots of knowledgeable guys. Lots of sales. hehe.
edit Oh, almost forgot! I have no less than 5 spray waxes you are free to try out. See what you like before you go out and make a purchase.

I tend to overthink things and get information overload, so I have to just right it all out to get a sense of what the hell I'm thinking. But thank you for the compliment!

I WISH I had a decent self-wash coin-op place ANYWHERE near me. Just for the shade and pressure washer alone. But I don't (they're all filthy I guess, and you gotta move quick - I don't think I could bring a bunch of stuff and my own foam gun and buckets). Also I already got the OCW! I haven't used it yet though so we'll see how it goes - but I appreciate the offer. This place seems great! I'm really glad I decided to post here.

My main reservations are the pollen. I'm gonna get a bottle of ONR soon anyway and I'll give it a shot. My car is parked near rose bushes, so the bees splat all over it every morning. There's just nothing I can do about it - and they don't rinse off or remove easily at all. I fear using a degreaser or something harsher so often will just mean I'll have to put something more than a spray wax on it so often. So blasting it with a hose and letting the foam sink in a bit to me is better than having to apply a lot of pressure everywhere (I still have to some places).

The other thing is, I gotta get some kinda tent. The way it is now, I'm constantly wetting the car to prevent the water from drying in the sun. I try to wait til the sun is almost totally gone, which is why I don't want to take on too many other steps in washing. I just don't have the time - I have about 1 hour of clear visibility, and then the sun sets and I pray I got EVERYTHING dry. I have a long driveway, but it's parallel to the sun. All. Day. I kinda lost my way with what my point was here and I realize this just makes more of an argument to do rinseless/waterless washes... and I promise I will try them. But polishing, claying, etc... In due time. For the Collinite, I plan to pull the car into the yard and wax it one half at a time. I get half the car in shade around 5pm back there... but right now, my 99 Volvo is sitting there waiting for me to decide what to do with it.

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Thanks again everyone for your responses, I really appreciate it! Apologies again for the super long post - I'm overly thorough.

One last question: How do you deal with not being able to see the roof of your car? I mean, I can see it, but not the way I can see the hood or trunk. Just use a stool, or what?

[PaulMys]

You have made excellent posts, and never be sorry to ask. Each guy/gal on this forum had to start from scratch.

Meg's Hyper Wash is super concentrated, cleans like crazy, leaves nothing behind, and smells good. I'd recommend it over the OTC Meg's stuff from Wally world or wherever.

As for Collinite products, Get yourself a flip top dispenser cap for the 845. It is a MUST with this wax. It only takes 3-4 drops per panel, and the flip top makes it very easy to meter.

As for the 476s, it's a tin like the old-fashion waxes. I just use a foam applicator to "swipe" a little off the top, and that's enough to to a 2x2 foot section. If you feel you need a tad more, just another dab or swipe from the can.

I actually think the 476s is easier to work with, and lasts longer, but certainly not dogging the 845, which is an outstanding product.

[AKT]

A cleaner wax is a polsih and wax in one! So instead of polishing and then waxing, you only get to do one step.

[RippyD]

Most cleaner waxes do very little to no polishing. Usually more chemical paint cleaners than abrasive.

You've off to a great start and have some nice products. As others have said, you won't need to use Collinite more than every 4-6 months. Go thin with it. Very thin. If you apply it and think "that's way too thin" you're probably just about right.

Any of the spray waxes should give you very good results. Most of them will repel water well for at least 2 week, some of then closer to 4. Probably no reason to use them weekly. Optimum Spray was, Duragloss Aquawax, Meguiars has several to choose from I'm sure, Mothers has a couple. I'm sure they're all good. If you want to wax every week or two, those are good choices.

If you want to apply wax less frequently I would also recommend Sonax PNS and Duragloss 111. They last about as long as Collinite but are little easier to apply. Not the Collinite has hard to use. I also got about 12 weeks of water sheeting from Dodo Future Armour. It goes on like a spray wax but lasts longer. Pretty impressive product.

[The Guz]

Yeah I knew I'd need more drying towels but wasn't ready to pull the trigger just yet. I purchased the 500s for the OCW while drying. I didn't think using a specialized drying towel was a good idea with the OCW, because then what about your windows or times you aren't using the OCW? Won't that interfere, somehow? I guess just in an effort to avoid cross-contamination. Is the 500 not a good towel to use for this?

The 300s I got as sort of a better quality all purpose towel, maybe to use some for an eventual QD bird poop situation, and than also for the interior to use with the Meg's Quick Interior Detailer I got, as well as the Aerospace 303 Matte Protectant (I'm also gonna pick up some Woolite, and Leather Masters Protectant). I didn't get them to use for the regular drying of a wet car (unless with wax). Please let me know if my assumptions about using specialized drying towels with OCW are wrong.
I was thinking of getting these for glass: The Cobra Waffle Weave Microfiber Glass Towel cleans & buffs glass to crystal clarity with the soft texture of genuine Cobra microfiber.

And unless I can use my DeWalt orbital sander to polish (which I'm pretty sure no - although I do have an extension with a pad attachment and buffer for some reason) I don't think I'll be getting into it anytime soon. Give me at least a year.

Also, if you or anyone has any tips on microfiber washing and care please let me know. So far I've washed all my used microfibers with Tide (very little) and put them in the dryer sans dryer sheets on Air Dry. However I read recently that residue from past dryer sheets can remain, so I might give them a couple more washes (or presoak + quick wash) to be sure there's no residue.
The new towels I washed with MicroRestore and am just air drying on pant clips, which is how I'll dry them in the future, too. I have to use dryer sheets for a lot of stuff cause my dog sheds a ton, and it really gets all the hair off/prevents much from sticking again.


One last question: How do you deal with not being able to see the roof of your car? I mean, I can see it, but not the way I can see the hood or trunk. Just use a stool, or what?

The 500's are nice towels. I am just not a fan of them for drying, spray waxes, compound/polish removal or using them on glass. They lint too much for those purposes.The eagle edgeless 350 is a better towel for those purposes. That is just my opinion. The 500's are good for someone looking to do the multiple towel method when doing a rinseless wash.

That glass towel that you linked is ok. I had some and they linted after a few uses so I stopped using them. The water magnet works pretty good on glass. I get all of my towels from the rag company and I use their waffle weave towels for glass. They don't lint and work good.

I use a microfiber detergent to wash all my towels. I wash them and dry them using the warm option.

A stool works fine if you can't reach the roof.

[GEM65]

Meguiars D110 Hyper wash is super concentrate 1:400 and smell good. You may add 1oz or 2oz to 5 gallon bucket and a gallon will last longer compare to gold class.

i'm a fan of smaller size towel and all my towels are 16x16
and yes, you may want to reserved some nice towels for spray wax only. For windows, cobra waffle weave is nice too.

If you have not purchase any rinseless/waterless i recommend either one of these:
Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash, no rinse car wash
McKee?s 37 N-914 Rinseless Wash

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