Advice for 92' Mercedes 190

[90s kid]

Hi,

I want to get into taking care of my first car (have a look at my introduction thread if interested) which is a daily driver, standing outside 24/7.
It's not in bad condition for it's age but the paint does not look well, it needs some body work as well to remove some rust spots - check out the album.

Now of course I have read all sorts of articles, but the longer I read the less I know what would be a good approach for this car and for me as a total beginner.

I am pretty sure the paint is single stage, since even wiping with a damp towel and APC is attracting paint - for example on the oxidized hood.
What I want to achieve is to minimize the oxidation, fill/mask the imperfections and protect the current state of the paint with as few products as possible to get the job done.
And here it comes... all of this must happen by hand - I just have no possibility to use a machine, therefore getting one in my situation does not make sense.

I am living in an apartment and have yet to find a place where I could perform just a hand wash using buckets.
So maintenance washes are done using a coin operated pressure washer so far, but I would like to add rinseless washing to my routine after the first "detail".
In a few weeks I will be visiting relatives for a few days where I could work on the car, therefore I hope you guys can help me out until then.

I have to add that I am trying to stay on a low budget and already got some products from a guy who was getting rid of some of his detailing supplies.
What I have so far: Sonax Multi Star APC, Sonax Plastic/Rubber care, CarPro Iron-X, foam applicators, some 350/450/500 gsm towels.

For the first step which would be to deep clean the car I still need a strong shampoo (maybe something that is concentrated, so one can up the ratio for decontamination), clay (the shampoo should suffice as lube right?) and a paint cleaner.
And that is as far as I "know" where to go. Which way to go from here on?

Mike's Show Glaze #7 method applicable or does it even make sense for my needs?
Use an All-in-one?
Top with some durable wax or maybe a colored wax which might help to make the painted panels less noticeable?

I would be really happy if you guys can guide me into the right direction based on my requirements, circumstances and the state of the car's paint.
Also it goes without saying that the products should be easy to apply and in the best case something that can be used on painted plastics due to the so called "Sacco panels" on the bottom of the side panels.

Just FYI, I am from Austria so I am trying to get most stuff from my country but ordering at Motorgeek , Car Washing, Cleaning, Polishing and Detailing Products would be no problem at all.
Everything available there should be availabe on AG as well, so this should make recommendations easier.

Thank you in advance!

[90s kid]

Update:

And here it comes... all of this must happen by hand - I just have no possibility to use a machine, therefore getting one in my situation does not make sense.

I've got a dual action polisher with 8mm throw and a 5 inch backing plate - my situation has not changed though, I will not be keeping the machine myself.

Mike's Show Glaze #7 method applicable or does it even make sense for my needs?

After reading some more threads I came to the conclusion that this step is nothing I will be considering.

Use an All-in-one?

Definitely this route - either an AIO or a finishing/one-step polish that is safe to use when it comes to painted plastics, trim and rubber seals, so I have room for error.

Top with some durable wax or maybe a colored wax which might help to make the painted panels less noticeable?

Want to go with a wax and maintain it with a spray wax during maintenance washes which would be rinseless.
Are there other suggestions than going with ONR and Optimum's Spray Wax? Something comparable from the brands mentioned below?

With that many experienced detailers here I was hoping to get some recommendations which would work for this particular paint (dark single stage) and my needs appropriate to my experience (noob).
I prefer the following brands regarding the products since they are easier to get: Sonax, Meguiar's, Chemical Guys, Menzerna (Poorboys' World and Dodo Juice to some extent as well)

When it comes to the pads I can go with Buff and Shine and Chemical Guys (or Lake Country if they are superior for that job).
Mike is generally recommending 5-6 foam polishing pads when using a one-step cleaner/wax.
I heavily depend on your experience regarding this point - which pads and how many due to heavy paint transfer on this type of paint?

Looking forward to your suggestions!

[Mike Phillips]

Update:


I've got a dual action polisher with 8mm throw and a 5 inch backing plate - my situation has not changed though, I will not be keeping the machine myself.


After reading some more threads I came to the conclusion that this step is nothing I will be considering.


Definitely this route - either an AIO

I think using a good one-step cleaner/wax is a good option for this car.



Read through my article here and watch the video on how to use the polisher. Note that when you use a one-step cleaner/wax or AIO on neglected paint and especially neglected single stage paint, you use the product like a compound or a polish, that is use plenty of product so you have lots of "liquid" on the surface as you're working a section.

You DON'T do like some many guys say and only use 3 peas sized drops of product. That's ridiculous. You need plenty of lubrication, abrasives, chemical cleaners on the surface working for you as you run the polisher.

Also - when removing oxidation from single stage paint, you're going to load up your pads with dead paint fast and the pads are going to become wet, soggy or saturated with product. So have plenty of pads on hand.

NORMALLY when using a one-step product you want to try to stick with foam "polishing" pads. Foam "cutting" pads will remove oxidation and defects faster but the cut of the foam itself and leave the paint hazed. Foam "finishing" pads are usually not aggressive enough. So the sweet spot is "polishing" pads.

If you do use foam cutting pads and see haze, then just re-polish using polishing pads and that should remove any haze. The abrasive technology in the AIO is a huge factor too...

I looked on Motorgeek's website and it shows they carry BLACKFIRE One Step

Blackfire One Step


I'd say get it. It's an awesome one-step cleaner/wax.

Want to go with a wax and maintain it with a spray wax during maintenance washes which would be rinseless.
Are there other suggestions than going with ONR and Optimum's Spray Wax? Something comparable from the brands mentioned below?

Optimum Spray Wax is a very good product especially for any car exposed to the elements and SUN all the time. The only product I know of that has PATENTED UV PROTECTION. I have an article here,

Patented UV Protection - Optimum Car Wax - by Dr. Ghodoussi at Autogeek.com

So use the AIO first and then top with the Optimum Spray Wax and then maintain with the Optimum Spray Wax, especially the horizontal panels.


I'm on the road starting tomorrow for the Indy Roadshow Class but I'll try to peek back in on your thread if you have any follow-up questions.


Indy Motor Speedway - June 8th & 9th - Roadshow Detail Class with Mike Phillips at Autogeek

[90s kid]

Mike, thanks for taking your time to answer before you're off to the detailing class - have fun there!

32 oz. is a bit much, but if it works out well, me and my cousin might attempt doing another car or two with it, so I'll be ordering it.
I will be getting mainly polishing pads then, some cutting pads to try and one or two finishing pads.

If further questions arise, I will update the thread - it might be still some more weeks though until I get to actually doing it.

[JCDetails]

Mike, thanks for taking your time to answer before you're off to the detailing class - have fun there!

32 oz. is a bit much, but if it works out well, me and my cousin might attempt doing another car or two with it, so I'll be ordering it.
I will be getting mainly polishing pads then, some cutting pads to try and one or two finishing pads.

If further questions arise, I will update the thread - it might be still some more weeks though until I get to actually doing it.

I use AIO's quite frequently. For something like HD Speed, BF AIO, M37 360, using the right amount of product (4-5 dime sized drops vs. pea sized) a 16oz bottle should easily last through many cars. I think I've done 5 cars with HD speed and my 16oz bottle is barely half empty. I think the BF AIO is only sold in 32oz, so that should last you a good long while. Get the experience using it on the 190e, then do a few other cars for money and make back your investment many times over.

I've had great luck with Lake Country orange thinpro pads and Rupes yellow pads 'boosting' the cut of an AIO while not hazing the paint. I believe these would be considered a light cutting/moderate polishing pad if you need to cross reference to another line of pads.

[90s kid]

I use AIO's quite frequently. For something like HD Speed, BF AIO, M37 360, using the right amount of product (4-5 dime sized drops vs. pea sized) a 16oz bottle should easily last through many cars. I think I've done 5 cars with HD speed and my 16oz bottle is barely half empty. I think the BF AIO is only sold in 32oz, so that should last you a good long while. Get the experience using it on the 190e, then do a few other cars for money and make back your investment many times over.

I've had great luck with Lake Country orange thinpro pads and Rupes yellow pads 'boosting' the cut of an AIO while not hazing the paint. I believe these would be considered a light cutting/moderate polishing pad if you need to cross reference to another line of pads.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts Joe - I will be selling the polisher and the product to my cousin, who has the possibility to work on cars on his property. I can imagine he could get the invested money back easily.

I will be getting a bunch of moderate cutting (orange) and polishing pads (white) which I can get locally and see how they perform. Will start out with the polishing pads and step up if necessary, if hazing occurs with the cutting pads I will still be able to finish with the polishing pads I guess.
They look like Buff and Shine pads and are made in Germany.