Paint Coating's Flashing removal and application question

[spectre327]

I haven't been able to find this topic so I figured I'd ask it.

When applying Paint coatings, such as Carpro's flyby30 or Forte, Dlux, Cquartz, etc I see alot of people saying that improper flash removal causes loads of issues. Can a small DA (Griot's 3") and a specific pad at low speeds and no pressure be used to remove the flash effectively or is the risk of removing the coating far too high?

Secondly, can these coatings be effectively airbrushed or diluted with something to allow it to be sprayed on? Obviously more product will be used by spraying but how ineffective is it compared to removing the high spots?

[BudgetPlan1]

Different coatings flash at different rates but overall the concept remains similar...and that concept *does not* lend itself to using a machine to remove no matter how lightly or how soft a pad.

Some coatings are trickier to remove with respect to a clean final buff. There are coatings out there whose application and clean removal could easily be done by a blind monkey with ADD, and are also very, very well performing.

Generally start with 2 towels, 1 for the initial wipe off, then followed by s second wirh perhaps longer nap for s final buff. I prefer shorter nap for initial wipe, something like a Gyeon PolishWipe then something with longer nap for the final buff/wipe.

Since you'll likely be working panel by panel be sure to wipe beyond panel borders when removing the coatings, lest you push some un-noticed product to adjacent panel where it can dry and leave the dreaded 'high-spot'. That got me a time or two when I started wirh coatings. Now for initial removal pass I'll start at beyond the edge of applied and wipe inwards toward panel being worked to minimize the chance of pushing product outward to non-worked panel. For final wipe, buff out far beyond edge of panel to inure any residue that was pushed is removed.

To get timing of application/flash/buff I'll generally try in a door jamb or other inconspicuous place to work it out before proceeding to a 'real' panel. For the most part, coating removal is a very light-handed process, if you find removal tacky, sticky, difficult, the wait between application and removal was too long.

Some products are quick in that by the time you're done applying to panel, it's time to remove/buff, other products I've used I've been able to apply to very large sections, wander around patting myself on the back because I'm so great and impressed with myself, then go back and buff off cleanly with no issues. It all depends on the product. Heck, I've used on particular product that has a 10 m7nute window between application and removal and it even visibly hazed a bit (like a sealant) when it was time to remove. And it's one of the longest lasting I've used, still going strong after 12 months on a fleet van.

If you wanna start with something simpler, give Gyeon CanCoat a try. Applies like a quick detailer, easy wipe on, buff off proposition, great gloss, self cleaning, beading and water behavior, albeit shorter longevity (6 or so months but have read about lasting longer on well maintained vehicles).

[spectre327]

thanks for the input. Like I said I was curious. I didn't expect machine buffing to work but you never know who has tried something new and learned the hard lesson themselves.

The only Sealant I have used outside of polymer waxes is Blackfire's crystal sealant and that is very forgiving so I want to try my hand at something much more durable.

[Cruzscarwash]

after can coat I would try mckees paint coat as it is also very easy to apply and very user friendly. I just did a Mercedes the other day with it and it looks amazing. I did the whole thing outside as well