Beginner question about M105

**Gradywhite3535** · 10-17-2017, 09:40 PM

Hi all, first time user with portrait cable 7204 DA. I'm using a orange lake country pad, speed 5 on machine, using m105. I'm working on a silver Acura TL that is very hard to see when the compound has flashed and time to stop.also working outside it's hard to see against the silver paint. It seems to dry up really fast. I know there are many variables but how many section passes with M105 is good to start out with? It seems like it flashes with only 1 or 2section passes but like I said it's hard to See. I did read that you should spritz some water or detail spray to further your working time. Also when you clean the pad with a brush on the machine and then use compressed air should you reprime the pad or just use the same amount of polish you use to do your section passes? Is there a big difference using ultimate compound to M105 with ease of use, I'm thinking I should have tried the ultimate to start out with. Thank you

**DaveT435** · 10-17-2017, 11:05 PM

I would get a small spray bottle and fill it with water and mist the compound when it starts to dry, otherwise your probably going to end up with a lot of dust. 105 isn't the most user friendly product. I read on here quite a while ago that putting a few drops of baby oil on the pad will extend the working time, I've never done it though. Do you have a picture of the paint you're working on? Acura paint is usually a little on the soft side. 105 is a pretty aggressive compound. Unless the paint is in really bad shape it may be a little overkill

**BudgetPlan1** · 10-18-2017, 03:47 AM

M105 can be made to work nicely but why bother? M101 is much easier to work with.

**RippyD** · 10-18-2017, 07:45 AM

Many other compounds are much easier to work with. Ultimate Compound, Griot's, Menzerna or Jescar... many others. You can certainly learn how to use M105 and get good results, or get something else and not have to worry about it. For what Ultimate Compound costs it's hard to beat.

**Paul A.** · 10-18-2017, 10:54 AM

I use the old Kevin Brown method whenever I use M105 i.e. cover the pad with product, work it into the pad with my fingers and then 3 pea sized dabs of product to work the section. Remembering that it's a SMAT, it doesn't break down like DAT's, therefore no real "flashing" to indicate it's done. If I need to extend the work time I spritz the panel (not the pad) with distilled water and go another 2 passes or so.

Because of the dusting issue with it I am using Ultimate Compound more often now with my Flex 3401. I still occassionally use it with my rotary.

With that said, I don't reprime the pad after a quick cleanout after the first section passes however I change pads much more frequently when using M105 and never use the same pad for more than 2 sections. I use A LOT of pads with 105.

**sweatthedetails** · 10-18-2017, 11:26 AM

Very difficult product. Really surprised Megs still sells it with so many better options available. I have used water, baby oil, and mixed it with 205. But what worked best for me is a switch to FG400.

**VISITOR** · 10-18-2017, 12:59 PM

try using UC. it's derived from M105 and formulated to be used by DA and/or hand and it's a notch/step down in aggressiveness. here's a thread of UC when mike use to work for megs...

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...CX63s7vzBp0.97

**Ronin47** · 10-18-2017, 01:12 PM

No idea why Megs hasn’t either canned it or reformulated it. Much better options out there that doesn’t need the user to try and get it to play nicely. My guess is its bodyshop stuff that wasn’t intended for detailing and thats why its still in production.

**DaveT435** · 10-18-2017, 01:34 PM

I really still question whether you need something near that aggressive. I'm sure UC would do everything you need for that particular car. It the paint trashed, of in pretty decent shape??

**Gradywhite3535** · 10-18-2017, 03:25 PM

Hey guys thanks for the responses, I would take a picture of it but I'm not by the car. The car is in pretty good shape but has some spots that has really bad oxidation and a few scratches( not swirl scratches). I figured since the car has never been compounded or polished since I owned the car(5-7 years, it's a 03) I would hit it with 105 then 205. I may just go buy some ultimate compound and hit it with that to see if I get better results then use 105 in the bad spots where there is oxidation on top of the door by roof. I will take some pics when I'm by the car.i did hear megs 100 and 101 are more user friendly. They make too many products lol.