Sealant comparison

[RippyD]

Poor choice of words on my part (perhaps because I put aside an article to read on placebo vs. drug testing, that seemed to be saying that drugs don't work), but I was more referring to what Tony was alluding to below and what Swanic found and was reiterated by PiPUK (whatever happened to him?) that sometimes when we think we are removing previous products we are simply clogging them and changing their beading characteristics, in other words, that it's a lot harder to get a "bare" surface than we thought it was.

Got it. I completely misunderstood. I haven't seen those vids. f I recall Mike has said that a finishing polish will remove a sealant. Hard to imagine that it doesn't since it's also removing scratches. But if others have found this to be the case, it makes sense. btw, I don't suspect I used an AIO, that's just how it's behaving.

However... what if this car has coating on it? If so I could have just removed the road grime so that coating is now sheeting again. Wild guess, but that's how it's behaving.

Regardless, your point is very well made and using a more aggressive polish makes sense. I would never have thought of this.

[Setec Astronomy]

Got it. I completely misunderstood. I haven't seen those vids. f I recall Mike has said that a finishing polish will remove a sealant. Hard to imagine that it doesn't since it's also removing scratches. But if others have found this to be the case, it makes sense. btw, I don't suspect I used an AIO, that's just how it's behaving.

However... what if this car has coating on it? If so I could have just removed the road grime so that coating is now sheeting again. Wild guess, but that's how it's behaving.

Regardless, your point is very well made and using a more aggressive polish makes sense. I would never have thought of this.

Well, really, the "Swanic" test was trying to clean off a sealant or wax with car soap, APC, Dawn, solvent, etc. I haven't seen the videos SWETM mentioned.

[RippyD]

Redid the Sentra driver's side. Polished with Menzerna 400/LC orange pad (3 passes), follow by Menzerna 3800/LC white pad, followed by McKee's prep polish/black pad. Also wiped down with CarPro Eraser. Anything that was on there should be gone.

I applied the same 5 products in the same order. The only difference is that I left a small area with no product at the rear of the passenger door this time. Car will be in the garage with the space heater going for at least 12 hours and probably 18.

[Eventful E]

RippyD, I'm a brand new forum member and have been dabbling in detailing for a year or so. Just decided to get serious and I want to thank you very much for your tests! I just ordered a bottle of 845, and bought an HDX spray bottle over at the Home Depot, and a cheap 2 oz spray bottle from Target to try out the spray method with 845.

Also got some nice eagle edgeless 350's, a BRS, ONRWW, an IK multi for an ONR pre-soak, a Nanoskin Autoscrub "green" (medium) clay towel, detail guardz vortex grit guard, and your standard TUF SHINE Tire Brush. Sounds pretty plain but I'm super excited, coming from using crappy consumer shelf products!

Over at the HD I found some "Odo-Ban Microsham Cloths". A 3 pack was 5 dollars. They are some new type of microfiber, but they are thin as and feel like a chamois. I tried one out around the house and they are pretty aggressive, almost as agressive as magic erasers! Against better judgement, I'm going to attempt to correct some paint with 105/205 and a PC, and see if these Microsham are clear-coat safe on some soft black Honda paint.

Anyway sorry for the Off topic rant, I'm just really excited! What I really wanted to say is that it interested me that 845 was originally an electrical insulator wax. In the past I've used NO-OX-ID-A to prevent corrosion on brass. It's a thick paste with almost a vasoline type consistency, but it proves to be the best anti-corrosion inhibitor for electrical contacts. Has anyone ever dared to try this on paint? Apparently it's food contact safe... so it's probably safe on paint? With how thick it is, it should last a long time! Maybe I'm just a mad scientist

NO-OX-ID Electrical Contact Grease- Conductive Lubricant | Sanchem, Inc.

[Setec Astronomy]

Anyway sorry for the Off topic rant, I'm just really excited! What I really wanted to say is that it interested me that 845 was originally an electrical insulator wax. In the past I've used NO-OX-ID-A to prevent corrosion on brass. It's a thick paste with almost a vasoline type consistency, but it proves to be the best anti-corrosion inhibitor for electrical contacts. Has anyone ever dared to try this on paint? Apparently it's food contact safe... so it's probably safe on paint? With how thick it is, it should last a long time! Maybe I'm just a mad scientist

I don't know about for paint, but I think you convinced me to buy this stuff for my battery terminals, since they sell it at the river store. The only other conductive grease I've seen is a paste made from aluminum powder and some kind of oily stuff.

[RippyD]

Had a lot of road grime after some snow. I pressure washed, then washed using CarPro Reset/Big Red Sponge. Videos are not great. Need to figure out how to get better water action on white paint. (Car washing at 31 degrees is unpleasant. Looking forward to Spring.)

Rover update (video):

• DG 104 and CanCoat still going strong
• OptiSeal working, but slowing down
• Honorable mention to DG 931 as a QD. Still done, but moving water a little faster than the other done products

Sentra passenger side update (video):

• Opt Spray Wax still going
• 303 is slowing and is close to done
• BF Crystal Seal still working somewhat. Going to re-set it's end date to this weekend - I called this one too early.

Sentra driver's side update: (video)

• 303 working the best by far, next is Opt Spray Wax
• Rupes, Fast Wax, and Crystal seal are all considerably slower

[SWETM]

Have you looked at the Apex detailing chanel on Youtube lately? He have colored the water in the spray setup he has. Not so easy with a PW though LOL. But maybe a pump sprayer bottle with colored water could work in some way. Otherwise if you use a colored masking tape so the camera can focus on that and gets focused on the sheeting and beading at the same time. Just like you point a finger or something on glass so it's focus on the glass instead of going through it.

[RippyD]

Interesting idea. I haven't watched that channel in a while. My pw has a soap dispenser. I could probably add something to it to get some color. Obviously has to be non-staining and not impact the surface tension.

[SWETM]

Interesting idea. I haven't watched that channel in a while. My pw has a soap dispenser. I could probably add something to it to get some color. Obviously has to be non-staining and not impact the surface tension.

I think he share if you ask what he is useing. Yeah if staining would not be so great LOL. The soap dispenser on the PW seems like a great idea.

[RippyD]

Washed the cars today with Duragloss Car Wash. I pressure washed first, then washed with a Big Red Sponge, then use the pressure washer to rinse. Then tested sheeting on the doors.

Rover

• DG 104 and CanCoat doing very well. Almost np slowing.
• OptiSeal doing ok.. About 20 seconds behind the other two.

Sentra Passenger Side

• Opt spray wax working
• BF Crystal Seal barely working but still hanging on(!)
• 303 Spray wax is done

Sentra Driver's Side

• Opt and 303 Spray Waxes doing pretty well
• Crystal Seal and Rupes still working slowly
• Fast Wax is done

I'll try to get videos posted tonight or tomorrow morning. Spreadsheet is updated.