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  1. #91
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    Re: Looking for a carwash soap that DOESN'T have wax in it, sell me on YOUR favorite!

    I don’t know why. But I keep buying other soaps to try and I always seem to go back to Duragloss 901.


    Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline

  2. #92
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    Re: Looking for a carwash soap that DOESN'T have wax in it, sell me on YOUR favorite!

    I guess our water here is hard? The soap never seems to suds much at all. Any suggestions for a more sudsy one?
    ·Ï¢årµ§·

  3. #93
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    Re: Looking for a carwash soap that DOESN'T have wax in it, sell me on YOUR favorite!

    Quote Originally Posted by mpulsiv View Post
    Cost and extra effort aside, sound like a ~ 5 minutes pre-soak is the preferred method before physical contact.
    If time permits:
    1) Pre-soak with foam gun to gently loosen, lifts, encapsulates, and releases contaminants
    2) Rinse off
    3) Wash

    Here's my first attempt with Griot's Garage Surface Wash
    I started with 2 oz + 28 oz of warm water on setting E to yield maximum suds. I was able to do 2 cars. I feel that there's room to be more conservative with 1 oz and less water pressure in control with single brass connector shut off valve

    • A: 1-128 for 1 oz./gal.
    • B: 1-64 for 2 oz./gal.
    • C: 1-32 for 4 oz./gal.
    • D: 1-20 for 6 oz./gal.
    E: 1-10 for 12 oz./gal.

    Based on the dilution rate, as low as 0.31 oz can yield enough suds with HoneyDew Snow Foam?
    Source: honeydew ratio for gilmore foam gun

    A: mix 3.34 oz Honeydew and 28.66 oz water for 32 oz pre-mixed solution
    B: mix 1.76 oz Honeydew and 30.24 oz water for 32 oz pre-mixed solution
    C: mix 0.90 oz Honeydew and 31.10 oz water for 32 oz pre-mixed solution
    D: mix 0.61 oz Honeydew and 31.39 oz water for 32 oz pre-mixed solution
    E: mix 0.31 oz Honeydew and 31.69 oz water for 32 oz pre-mixed solution

    Yeah the dwell time is the trick for the most cleaning ability from it. The longer dwell time from it you can get the better it will clean or release the dirt easier. When the temperature goes down you often gets away with a longer dwell time. Here it's also a difference between the different foams on how they act and how strong they are. IIRC the GG BOSS Foaming Surface Wash has a kind of 2 foams in 1. Where the first runs slowly off and the second is for keeping it wet and leaves a thinner kind of soapy suds behind. This is usually what you want and actually with a great sheeting LSP this can be a problem since it's runs off to fast. Then the more you use foam the more you learn how the product you use acts. As in how thick foam is the products sweet spot to get the longest dwell time from it. The most common is when you have the foam too thin and it runs off to fast in maybe 2 minutes or so. But more common with a foamcannon but can happen with a foam gun also. Is when you get over the edge of the foam gets to thick. The shaving cream thick foam and when you foam on to much of product. It gets to heavy and runs off faster cause of that. So I try to find the middle where you get a foam that clings on the paint and slowly runs off. And also leaves a wet film after it is to prefer.

    Then the prewash foam can only do so you get the dirt loose and not getting it squeeqe clean after it has runned off. And that's when a good PW comes in. So you have a good width 15-25 degree nozzle tip and not the 40 degree nozzle tip. And have a water pressure enough to clean off the dirt with. Then on this forum I sound like an alien when describe how I do when cleaning off prewash foam or any chemical pretreatment. I start from the bottom and work my way up with the water pressure from the PW to clean with. Dirt runs off better on a clean paint and can re-attach to the the dirt it runs over if you start from the top. And you get harder to clean the bottom of the vehical. This is just common practice here in Sweden when doing this. When it comes to rinsing off the car soap I do like everyone else and start from the top. When you start from the bottom and work your way up you also see easier where you have cleaned with the water pressure from the PW.

    So if you would notice and feel that you have a thick foam and you still don't get the longer dwell time. Test to dilute the prewash a step weaker.

    The CG Honeydew Snow Foam I have not used. But in the testing I have seen being done when comparison with other prewash foams. I have seen it getting low points for it's cleaning ability. Think that if you get it you will see your GG BOSS Foaming Surface Wash out perform the Honeydew Snow Foam. The great prewash foams is usually on the higher price if you don't live in the UK LOL. But you don't want to strong prewash foam either. I used a kind of prep prewash foam the other day and it impacted good on the LSP. So that's not something I will use for maintance washes LOL.


    To you who have the big truck and wanted to have a car soap that didn't dry on the paint while you are washing. I would get the McKees 37 SiO2 Wash. As it's not a problem if that dries on the paint in the sun. So it would not be a problem if it dries on the paint for you. And says to be easy to rinse it off even when it has dried on the paint. Could be an option to go with. Sorry but didn't remember your nickname on the forum LOL.

    / Tony

  4. #94
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    Re: Looking for a carwash soap that DOESN'T have wax in it, sell me on YOUR favorite!

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post


    To you who have the big truck and wanted to have a car soap that didn't dry on the paint while you are washing. I would get the McKees 37 SiO2 Wash. As it's not a problem if that dries on the paint in the sun. So it would not be a problem if it dries on the paint for you. And says to be easy to rinse it off even when it has dried on the paint. Could be an option to go with. Sorry but didn't remember your nickname on the forum LOL.

    / Tony
    Thank you, I'll take a look at that stuff.

  5. Likes SWETM liked this post
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