Polishing not going so well, need some advice...

[Desertnate]

I'm going to be applying HD POXY (when the rain stops), though may apply to mums car down the track when I do hers. I don't have a pre-wax / coating type cleanser either, so may have to get something for that?

If you are going to go with a traditional sealant like Poxy, I'd simply apply it after you're done polishing. Those additional products are only needed when preparing for coatings.

[custmsprty]

HD Polish is an excellent product and I've used it quite succesfully.

Don't prime the pad. I run at 5-6 (6) with all my different da's with HDP no dusting etc.

I typically use and orange pad. How many orange pads do you have? How much downward pressure are you using?

And as advised above, you can go right to Poxy after HDP. Let the Poxy fully cure for alteast 40+ minutes before removal.

Check this linkout, 370 Z I did a one step and Poxy , supposedly according to 3d HD polish + replaced Adapt.

2014 Nissan 370 Z Griots G21 HD Adapt 7 HD Poxy

[Paul A.]

Yes, prime fresh pads, whether brand new out of the plastic or cleaned and dried. But only prime for the first time you use it.

EDIT: let me say I prime for first use but understand others may not and for different products or reasons.

[Widget]

If you are going to go with a traditional sealant like Poxy, I'd simply apply it after you're done polishing. Those additional products are only needed when preparing for coatings.

Thanks Desertnate , so just wipe off excess residue like normal, then proceed with POXY ?

HD Polish is an excellent product and I've used it quite succesfully.

Don't prime the pad. I run at 5-6 (6) with all my different da's with HDP no dusting etc.

I typically use and orange pad. How many orange pads do you have? How much downward pressure are you using?

And as advised above, you can go right to Poxy after HDP. Let the Poxy fully cure for alteast 40+ minutes before removal.

Thanks custmsprty . You don't have any issues running at 5-6 speed ? I'm rather hesitant as it feels fast and don't want to burn through the paint (like I did with wetsanding :/ )

I only have 2x Orange LC CCS pads, both used (and washed)

I also have 2x Yellow LC CCS __ 2x White LC CCS __ 2x Black LC CCS __ 2x Red LC CCS (unused but was going to use to apply the HD POXY)

With pressure, I apply just enough to support the machine and keep the pad flat. I have a black line on the backing plate, which still spins around fast. Same boat with the speed, hesitant to apply too much pressure in case heat build up.


Thanks Paul . I always do, but just wasn't 100% sure... thought priming it was a 'breaking in the pad' thing


Thanks again

[custmsprty]

I always run at 5.5 to 6 when polishing / correcting. Especially with a machine like you have compared to a Griots G15 or Rupes 15. Nice, slow steady 2' x 2' passes and as you come to your last passes lighten up on the pressure.

You need more pads. I usually use atleast 4 orange pads on a mid size sedan, 6 on a larger vehicle (suv etc.) The pad heats up and that's where the dusting comes from. It gums up when you have too much polish then your pad breaks down and becomes abused and the foam cell structure breaks down. Having more pads will actually save you money on your pads over the long run and will give you much better results. Cleaning on the fly is only so effective.

With a da like yours, PC style you need to apply about 8-10lbs of downward pressure.

You really can't hurt the paint or burn through with the machine you have. You can place it in the palm of your hand with a pad on it and it won't tear your hand up so you're good to go on the paint.

[Don M]

. You don't have any issues running at 5-6 speed ? I'm rather hesitant as it feels fast and don't want to burn through the paint (like I did with wetsanding :/ )

In order to burn through the paint with a DA polisher, you have to be INCREDIBLY aggressive and even then usually only on a raised lip or seam. Unless the paint is extraordinarily thin for some reason.

[Paul A.]

I couldn't agree more with custmsprty! When I was solely using my Porter Cable DA years ago it was never less than speed 6 and slow, flat arm speed. Wax or sealant was applied at 3-4. I use a minimum of 6 pads on an average sedan for each product...maybe 4 pads for a final polish. I love having a s******d of clean, dry pads and grab them frequently. I want the pad and product to work and not pad, product, spent product, abraded paint, assorted dirt crap etc. I have definately noticed my pad life extended by not torturing the few i had. I remember a few adhesive issues with velcro backing that I am convinced were caused by over extending the working time of the pad and not cleaning it out enough between sections. Live and learn.

And, as Don just said, don't be afraid of spinning that puppy up! Try it on a test panel or a junk yard hood and you'll confirm to yourself that. Gives you confidence and imparts a comfort level.

[custmsprty]

This is a great example, these pads were brand new. This is three pads after doing half of a full size Chevy pick up. These were cleaned on the fly too. Eventually they get saturated and gummed up. Would you want that polishing your paint, no way.

You can never have too many pads

[Widget]

Thanks guys . Ill give it another shot, adding more polish and upping the speed.

Reason I only have 2 was low on cash and im a weekend warrior with no other income, so only grabbed the 2x when they were on special. Ill keep an eye out, maybe grab another 2x orange and 2x white

Regarding the actual pad type... why so many foam pads? should I stick with the CCS style or get 'Flat Pad' like above ?

Lake Country - Foam Pads

[custmsprty]

I prefer flat pads, LC or Buff and Shine. Adding too much polish will get you in trouble, it'll gum the pad up.