Car Detailing Routine

[worriedlearner]

Hi all,

Hope everyone is well

From all the reading that I've done here is what I have learnt about the order of doing things:

1) Pre-Rinse - Using a foam gun or Traffic Film Remover (whatever floats your boat)
2) Wash using two bucket method
3) Dry (MF cloths, or blow dryer)
4) Wax (whether using liquid based or solid)

This is correct right?

When doing a more thorough job with some paint correction then:

1) Pre-Rinse using dish soap (or as we call it here "washing up liquid") to remove all waxes etc....
2) Wash using two bucket method
3) Dry
4) Clay
5) Wash again and dry OR simply dry using MF cloths (again difference of opinion)
6) Polish using DA/Rotery and M105
7) Polish using DA/Rotery and M205

If this is correct, what's the next step?

[Dan K]

Skip the dish soap as they tend to leave residue on the surface. Just use your car wash soap. You can use a higher concentration of it if desired. After you have polished the paint to your satisfaction the final step is to apply your wax or sealant.

Remember, you don't necessarily have to use a compound first and then a polish. Always do your test spot starting with the least aggressive products first.

[AeroCleanse]

Or you could use a rinse less wash using something like Optimum No Rinse, depending on the dirt level. Between step 7 and the next step you want to something like an IPA or Gtechniq Panel Wipe before apply a good coating or sealant.

[worriedlearner]

So updated list is:

A: Wash stage
1) Pre-Rinse
2) Wash tyres and alloys (Ironx if skipping decontamination stage)
3) Wash using two bucket method
4) Dry

B: Decontamination Stage
5) De-tar
6) Rinse
7) Dry
8) Ironx
9) Rinse
10) Clay
11) Wash again OR just rinse OR Just wipe down with QD depending on situation
12) Dry [if you obv washed or rinsed]

C: Paint Correction Stage
13) Polish using DA/Rotary and M105 (if necessary)
14) Polish using DA/Rotary and M205
15) IPA mixed 50/50 with water

D: Protecting Stage
16) Wax (on the alloys too?)
17) Sealant (is this used with wax or instead of wax?)

[dpevans]

sealant then wax, but wax not needed if you use sealant. personal choice.

[worriedlearner]

So now we have:

A: Wash stage
1) Pre-Rinse
2)
a. Wash tyres and alloys (Ironx if skipping decontamination stage)
b. Wash exhaust pipe if necessary using Autosol (metal cleaner and polish).
c. Wash rubber trims using APC or rubber specific cleaner like Adam’s Rubber and Tyre
3) Wash body using two bucket method
4) Dry

B: Decontamination Stage
5) De-tar
6) Rinse
7) Dry
8) Ironx
9) Rinse
10) Clay
11) Wash again OR just rinse OR Just wipe down with QD depending on situation
12) Dry [if you obv washed or rinsed]


C: Paint Correction Stage

13) Polish using DA/Rotary and M105 (if necessary)
a. Use at least 6 pads:
i. 1 for the hood,
ii. 1 for the roof and trunk (boot) lid,
iii. 2 for drivers side,
iv. 2 for passenger side

14) Polish using DA/Rotary and M205
a. Use at least 4 pads:
i. 1 for the hood,
ii. 1 for the roof and trunk (boot) lid,
iii. 1 for the driver’s side,
iv. 1 for passenger side

15) IPA mixed 50/50 with water

D: Protecting Stage
16) Sealant (if applied with machine, use 1 waxing pad)
17) Wax (on wheels too, either the one used on the body or wheel specific - if applied with machine, use 1 waxing pad)

[bal]

I would start with the wheels using separate everything: bucket, wash mitt, etc. I'm assuming that you're going to be using some kind of wheel cleaner, which means that you'll need to rinse it off. Undoubtedly some of that spray will get onto the bodywork, which is why I'd wash the rest of the car after the wheels.

[vanev]

Just a few things:

Washing does very little to actually clean the vehicle.
Cleaning will come in the decontamination stage.
In regards to your wash process, look for ways to combine steps and save time.
Get familiar with rinseless wash methods and rinseless wash products.

In regards to polishes and compounds, you will serve yourself well to stay away from M105 and M205.
I am a fan of both, and am a fan Meguiars products.
However, unless you have a shop and extra time on your hands, there are better polishes and compounds out there, with much less aggravation to work with.
Recommend:
- Menzerna FG-400 / SF-3500
- Gtechniq P1
- 3D HD Speed

Wheels, tires, and wheel wells will take you more time than you think.
Also be mindful of both the surface of the wheel, and what type of brakes the vehicle has as they can be sensitive to fallout removers and wheel acids.
Engine detailing is important, and metal polishing is a skill unto its own.

[worriedlearner]

I would start with the wheels using separate everything: bucket, wash mitt, etc. I'm assuming that you're going to be using some kind of wheel cleaner, which means that you'll need to rinse it off. Undoubtedly some of that spray will get onto the bodywork, which is why I'd wash the rest of the car after the wheels.

Atm I spray the car with Valet Pro citrus wash including wheels. Then jet wash. Then I spray autoglym wheel cleaner and leave for a min or so then use a brush to agitate the muck on the alloys, then rinse. In between the wheels I just jet wash the brush I'm using. After I'm done with the whole car I then come back and spray a sealant which requires me to leave to settle for an hour or so. I haven't really been paying much attention to the tyres or the wheel arch.

Why and when would I need a bucket and mitt for the wheels?

(I've left out the rest on how I wash the car but I do use the 2bm and AG shampoo then follow with a wax)

[worriedlearner]

Just a few things:

Washing does very little to actually clean the vehicle.
Cleaning will come in the decontamination stage.
In regards to your wash process, look for ways to combine steps and save time.
Get familiar with rinseless wash methods and rinseless wash products.

In regards to polishes and compounds, you will serve yourself well to stay away from M105 and M205.
I am a fan of both, and am a fan Meguiars products.
However, unless you have a shop and extra time on your hands, there are better polishes and compounds out there, with much less aggravation to work with.
Recommend:
- Menzerna FG-400 / SF-3500
- Gtechniq P1
- 3D HD Speed

Wheels, tires, and wheel wells will take you more time than you think.
Also be mindful of both the surface of the wheel, and what type of brakes the vehicle has as they can be sensitive to fallout removers and wheel acids.
Engine detailing is important, and metal polishing is a skill unto its own.

You're the second person to warn me about using the m105 and m205. TBH I only thought of using them because of Junkman's video on polishing, but now I'm actually reconsidering. What do you think of a 2 in 1 polish that claims to be a compound and polish? There's one here in the U.K. That is easy to work with and gives good results.

Engine detailing is a little further down on the list of things to learn

I doubt I can do a proper job on the exhaust but the way it currently looks with all the carbon at least I hope I can enhance the look even if it's insignificant now