What factors affect the finishing quality of paint?

**Dan Tran** · 08-01-2016, 01:00 PM

Disclaimer: This is not a vs. thread (ex. Rupes vs. Flex)

I hope this is not too much of a silly question. BUT...

What factors affect the finishing quality of paint?

Some people say that a long throw can finish out better than forced rotation. While I have seen amazing results from long throw machines, I have also seen outrageously awesome results from a forced rotation machine.

I am just curious and want to be more educated with the craft of polishing car paint.

Again, this is not a long throw vs. forced rotation thread I am trying to start, but I just want to know if there is truth to anything, I would like to know.

Please and thank you.

**Eric@CherryOnTop** · 08-01-2016, 02:34 PM

For starters, I think the color of paint has a big determining factor on how well it finishes. Jet black shows everything and metallic silver shows very little...

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**idriveblackcars** · 08-01-2016, 03:25 PM

People who own both and use both daily generally say Rupes finishes better, but the flex corrects much quicker. I have only owned Rupes and a PC so I cannot comment.

But so many other variables that can determine the results,like compounds and polishes and especially pad choice.

**PaulMys** · 08-01-2016, 07:32 PM

Originally Posted by ekennett

For starters, I think the color of paint has a big determining factor on how well it finishes. Jet black shows everything and metallic silver shows very little...

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I like this theory. I'm sure the correction is the same on different colored paints, (assuming the same clearcoat hardness), but unless it's a show car that will be scrutinized under jeweler's loop, a paint such as my Mineral Metallic Gray on my Ram will look stunning compared to a black Challenger that was corrected in the same way with the same machine and products.

When I correct my truck, I go over it like crazy looking for swirls by eye. When I don't see 99% of what was there, I'm a happy camper.

But, if my truck were black, I'd bet I'd be the camper that refuses to come out of the tent because he had to get a whole new line of products from AutoGeek and a new Flex machine.

**Jeremy1976** · 08-01-2016, 07:34 PM

Technique, experience, products used.

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**Rsurfer** · 08-01-2016, 08:06 PM

On dark colors the main factor besides swirls, is orange peel. You can never get crip, sharp images it the paint is not perfectly flat.

**Dan Tran** · 08-02-2016, 01:54 PM

Over at Autopia, there is a thread entitled "Finishing Quality of a long throw"

One of the finest explanation to this question has already been answered by Todd Helmes from Rupes. This question is now satisfied.

Thank you everyone who responded to this thread.

**WRAPT C5Z06** · 08-02-2016, 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by Jeremy1976

Technique, experience, products used.

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Couldn't agree more.

On a side note, with proper technique of both the 3401 and Rupes 21, the 21 will correct faster.

Also, a non forced orbital will finish better than a forced orbital.

**dschia** · 08-02-2016, 02:32 PM

First off probably is the quality of the compound. The finer the abrasive, the lesser the cut, but the flatter the paint surface one can potentially achieved. How the compound is being rub into the paint will depends on the pad, tools and technique. Long throw or not, compound, pad and technique being synergise to achieve the the flattest surface will produce the best finish. Personally DA produce a better finish as for me it is easier to work the abrasive evenly.