Proper section pass time for paint correction

[fordlexus]

I am new to detailing with a DA polisher and was just wondering roughly how long it should it take to do a section pass lets say 16" x 16"(while doing paint correction). I dont want to work the product for too long or vice versa.

[Nozama]

Watch the videos for a lot of good info.

https://aspdn-02.onstreammedia.com/palmbeachmotoring/

Time varies by machine and product.

[alko]

Or check out Autogeek's youtube channel...there is a wealth of information there.

[Flannigan]

What products are you working with? With a product like M105 that doesn't use diminishing abrasive you just work it until you are happy with the amount of correction. This can vary per car based on how bad the defects are and how hard the clearcoat is.

If you are using a product with diminishing abrasives, like SIP or Powerfinish, you will want to work it until it goes clear (breaks down). Usually this take 5-7 passes with a DA, or 4-6 with a rotary.

[fordlexus]

Thanks for the replies. I originally was working with megs#2 and pinnacle paint cleansing lotion and liquid wax. But I may need to step up to something more aggressive as far as the megs goes. I watched some videos with Mike on you tube and thats what i was using as my guide. I was just worried about working to a dry buff as im new to using a DA polisher and wasnt sure how the product was suppose to look after 4-7 passes. It seemed like it was hard to buff off the megs with a MF cloth when i was done even the lotion. So i wasnt sure if i worked it too long or vice versa. I belive im using the right amount of product, i prime the pad with product first, then put the amount shown on the videos on the pad. Is one application of product on the pad good for one whole section pass or do i need to add more as im going? Thanks in advance.

[kronos]

I believe you should be moving the buffer at about an inch per second.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

To the OP, where do you live?

What products are you working with? With a product like M105 that doesn't use diminishing abrasive you just work it until you are happy with the amount of correction. This can vary per car based on how bad the defects are and how hard the clearcoat is.

If you are using a product with diminishing abrasives, like SIP or Powerfinish, you will want to work it until it goes clear (breaks down). Usually this take 5-7 passes with a DA, or 4-6 with a rotary.

On a separate note..........

With hard paint, I compound and finish with non-diminishing abrasives.

With soft paint, I compound with non-diminishing, and follow(one or two steps), I use diminishing abrasives.

If you're using a DA, look into Meg's non-diminishing polishes for compounding and finishing. If you want to work with diminishing abrasives, look in prima polishes as they're optimized to work with a DA. Menzerna polishes optimized to work with a rotary, but will still work with a DA, too.

[Flannigan]

To the OP, where do you live?




On a separate note..........

With hard paint, I compound and finish with non-diminishing abrasives.

With soft paint, I compound with non-diminishing, and follow(one or two steps), I use diminishing abrasives.

If you're using a DA, look into Meg's non-diminishing polishes for compounding and finishing. If you want to work with diminishing abrasives, look in prima polishes as they're optimized to work with a DA. Menzerna polishes optimized to work with a rotary, but will still work with a DA, too.

Great info Mark! So can I assume that you are a fan of the Prima polishes? They are the one part of the Prima line I have not had a chance to try out. Would love to hear your thoughts!

[Mike Phillips]

I was just worried about working to a dry buff as im new to using a DA polisher and wasnt sure how the product was suppose to look after 4-7 passes.

After about 4 section passes most products are going to become clear films on the surface, if you over use any product then you'll still see lots of product on the paint, so be careful not to over use or under use product.
See this article,

Wet Buffing Technique

Wet film behind your path-of-travel

It seemed like it was hard to buff off the megs with a MF cloth when i was done even the lotion. So i wasnt sure if i worked it too long or vice versa.

Meguiar's M02 can be a little gummy to wipe off if worked too long with a DA on paint so watch to make sure you don't go to a dry buff and when you go to wipe it or any stubborn product off take little swipes off instead of trying to wipe off huge chunks, your microfiber towel will have more leverage over the hold the product has on the paint making wiping off any product easier. (I show wiping techniques in all our classes)

I believe im using the right amount of product, i prime the pad with product first, then put the amount shown on the videos on the pad.

If you prime your pad first then you don't need to place a circle pattern or x-pattern of product on the face of the pad, just use 3-4 pea sized or dime sized drops or dollops of product.

See this article,

How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher

Excerpt...


Adding "Working Product" to the primed pad
Some people will recommend 3 to 4 pea size drops of product as the proper amount of product to use and this can be correct for concentrated products or working small sections and if you follow this advice make sure you are not under-lubricating the surface being worked.

Pea size drops of product






For some products and paint conditions, you may want more product on the surface working for you. Here's an example of dime size drops of product.

Dime size drops of product

Is one application of product on the pad good for one whole section pass or do i need to add more as im going? Thanks in advance.

After working a section, wipe the residue off and inspect the paint. If the defects are removed to your satisfaction then you can move on. If you still see some room for improvement, then,

1. Repeat the process
2. Switch to a more aggressive pad
3. Switch to a more aggressive product

The most important thing you can do is a Test Spot, that is test out your "process" to one section of paint and make sure you can make this one section of paint look GREAT!

If you can, then repeat the process to the entire car. If you can't, then come back here and tell us what you're experiencing and we'll see you through to success. (kind of like what you're doing now)


Also see this article, I posted it yesterday...

DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing


Here's an excerpt...

Removing swirls and polishing to a high gloss

Typical speeds for most procedures using most DA Polishers

5-6 Speed setting for removing swirls
4-5 Speed setting for polishing after swirls are removed
3-4 Speed setting for machine applying a wax.

For your test spot I always recommend using a Tape-Line when doing your testing as it will make it very easy for your eyes to detect changes, which usually mean improvements in the test area and gauge how effectively your pads, products, tool and techniques are working on this particular paint system.






Also, mark the back of your backing plate with a black felt marker like you see below as this will help you to see when the pad is rotating or just vibrating. When you're trying to remove swirls you need the pad rotating.

[Mike Phillips]

Check this out to...


DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide