Challenges with Gyeon Cancoat

[dmboone25]

Hey guys,

I am a long time user of Gyeon products, specifically Wetcoat and Cure, and purchased from Autogeek.

Recently, I tried Cancoat EVO on two of our family cars, and even though I figured to get good results, I have not seen the proof in the pudding, so to speak.

I performed a deacon wash first, then used Gyeon Iron to pull the fallout from the clear coat. Also used a mild clay towel to make sure the surfaces were very smooth. Both cars were then polished with yellow, then white Rupes foam pads (compound was Sonax perfect finish). I then used Gyeon prep on all panels before applying Cancoat. Started by shaking the bottle, then I used a foam applicator, two to three sprays directly into the applicator like you see on the esoteric channel, and then applied it in a cross hash pattern in roughly a shoulder width area. I would then use a secondary towel to wipe off. It was a little tacky, but I was able to remove with some effort. Did both cars roughly 12 days ago.

Took one of the cars to a meet today, and we got rain. I was so disappointed to see flat spots and other areas that had very oddly shaped water beads / not tight at all. It almost looks like there was no bonding at all.

Any idea on what happened here? I have polished numerous cars in my life and used the trusty Duetto for both cars. Used plenty of Prep and the panels seemed to be squeaky clean. They were even making the telltale sounds when wiping with the secondary towels after applying Prep.

I’m just not sure where I went wrong, and am not seeing the glorious water beading properties more than 10 days after application.

[BlakeC]

You’ve got me. I did my car this Spring and was super pleased. With me it was just apply and immediately wipe off. I’m 7 months in at least and still beads like crazy.

[glen e]

In 20 years of detailing My general rule is if I have a well known quality product that doesn’t work well, almost 100% of the time I can blame something on the surface underneath it that’s making it go not well. That includes tire dressings, waxes, coatings, sealant, etc. etc. etc.… I would completely decon the surface and try again, cancoat is good stuff..

[Bruno Soares]

What conditions were the cars exposed to during the 10 days after coating? They could just be covered in something masking the hydrophobic of the coating but after a good wash it should come back. Your process looks good, the only puzzling part was that you said difficult to remove. That could mean you waited too long or the product was going old and started the curing process prior to application. But since it’s cancoat EVO, I don’t think it can be too old.

[SNP209]

I'd give it a good wash with a quality soap such as carpro reset and see if the hydrophobic properties return. The coating could be clogged as bruno pointed out. If the hydrophobics aren't where they need to be after that wash then you'll need to polish and re-coat.

[dmboone25]

In 20 years of detailing My general rule is if I have a well known quality product that doesn’t work well, almost 100% of the time I can blame something on the surface underneath it that’s making it go not well. That includes tire dressings, waxes, coatings, sealant, etc. etc. etc.… I would completely decon the surface and try again, cancoat is good stuff..

I appreciate the response, and it’s very logical. I will definitely try another deacon wash and go from there - I just figured this stuff would stick well, no matter what.

[dmboone25]

They’re both garaged, so not subjected to the typical outdoor conditions.

[noorth]

Maybe gyeon prep didn't remove all the polishing oils. That's why i used gyeon primer with my cancoat.

[DUBL0WS6]

Maybe it was too cold when you applied it or too much moisture in the air.

[The Guz]

How many towels did you use when using Prep?