Dilema: What would you use for a 4-step ?

[cobraa]

Hello guys,

I'm doing my black pearl car this week-end and today I did the engine shampoo, wheel, clay bar, prep.

Now, I don't know which middle step to achieve a 98% finish.

1-step: Yellow CCS with Poorboys SSR3 DONE
2-step: ??
3-step: ??
4 step: Wolfgang Finishing glaze blue CCS pad.

Here's my dilema..

2step: orange CCS + SSR2.5 or TSR orange CCS
3step: white CCS WG TSR3.0

I also have the green CCS coarse pad and the whole PB ssr lines. What would you do ?

I will be finishing it tomorrow and monday I will do my LSP ( should be powerlock + Dodo PRO purple haze and blue velvet)

[fancyfootwork]

Sounds like you only need a 3 step process..

Step 2: Megs 205 or WG

Step 3: Finishing glaze.. (if the 205 or WG doesn't leave it perfect already)

Then straight to the LSP.

[cobraa]

Sounds like you only need a 3 step process..

Step 2: Megs 205 or WG

Step 3: Finishing glaze.. (if the 205 or WG doesn't leave it perfect already)

Then straight to the LSP.

I fear it would leave buffing marks or holograms with that kind of combination

[Rez90]

you won't know until you try.........stuff like that is hard to predict until you do a test spot.....

[Shane731]

You could do Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, and follow that with Menzerna PO85rd.

[cobraa]

You could do Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, and follow that with Menzerna PO85rd.

I don't have any menzerna polish.

I end up doing :

1. SSR3- Yellow pad
2. SSR2.5- Orange
3.TSR3.0 - green coarse pad
4. TSR3.0- white sonus pad

Still had some holograms!! So, I had to do:

5. Finishing glaze 3.0 - blue pad ( didn't have the gray and the Finishing glaze with white pad was still leave haze/holograms!)

Now, I have a fresh coat of Menzerna powerlock bonding on the paint, Will do another coat. Then, after... I might do a coat of finishing glaze with hand and do a 50/50 test ( souveran on one side, DODO PRO combo on the other)

[Mike Phillips]

Hello guys,



I also have the green CCS coarse pad and the whole PB ssr lines. What would you do ?

I would do a "Test Spot" and dial-in a system that works perfect to one small area and after that simply duplicate the test spot over the rest of the car.

I end up doing :

1. SSR3- Yellow pad
2. SSR2.5- Orange
3.TSR3.0 - green coarse pad
4. TSR3.0- white sonus pad

Still had some holograms!!

Which tool are you using?

(Did you mention that? I don't remember seeing it mentioned?)

So, I had to do:

5. Finishing glaze 3.0 - blue pad ( didn't have the gray and the Finishing glaze with white pad was still leave haze/holograms!)

I've only ever seen excellent results when finishing with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, it's pretty fail-safe.

As for your wax testing, the best way is on a horizontal panel that you can look down on and side by side. Placing wax on one side of the car and a different wax on the other side of the car will force you to use your memory to try to remember how the paint looks as you walk to the other side to inspect the other wax, too much time for that.

Also lighting and shade will be a factor. I've tested a lot of waxes in my life and the best test is on black paint, on a horizontal surface that you can look down on.

In the end, it will come down to personal preference and perceptions and finding something you like to use and then using it often.

[Bunky]

I don't have any menzerna polish.

I end up doing :

1. SSR3- Yellow pad
2. SSR2.5- Orange
3.TSR3.0 - green coarse pad
4. TSR3.0- white sonus pad

Still had some holograms!! So, I had to do:

5. Finishing glaze 3.0 - blue pad ( didn't have the gray and the Finishing glaze with white pad was still leave haze/holograms!)

Now, I have a fresh coat of Menzerna powerlock bonding on the paint, Will do another coat. Then, after... I might do a coat of finishing glaze with hand and do a 50/50 test ( souveran on one side, DODO PRO combo on the other)

SSR3 + Yellow pad - From what I have heard about SSR3 and yellow pads that could cause as many issues as it solves especially in hard paint.

[cobraa]

I would do a "Test Spot" and dial-in a system that works perfect to one small area and after that simply duplicate the test spot over the rest of the car.




Which tool are you using?

(Did you mention that? I don't remember seeing it mentioned?)




I've only ever seen excellent results when finishing with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, it's pretty fail-safe.

As for your wax testing, the best way is on a horizontal panel that you can look down on and side by side. Placing wax on one side of the car and a different wax on the other side of the car will force you to use your memory to try to remember how the paint looks as you walk to the other side to inspect the other wax, too much time for that.

Also lighting and shade will be a factor. I've tested a lot of waxes in my life and the best test is on black paint, on a horizontal surface that you can look down on.

In the end, it will come down to personal preference and perceptions and finding something you like to use and then using it often.

Hey Mike,

I'm working with a makita. Don't have a PC. The thing with the test spot wasn't the swirls, I was seeking for holograms and outside it was cloudy so I couldn't see them. A test spot with 2x 250w light won't tell you about very fine holograms.

Thanks for the tips about the wax. After my 2 coat of powerlock( 12 and 8 hours cure time) I went with DODO pro Bule velvet and Souveran on the other side. Even if dodo combo would look better than souveran it was such a pita to apply ( and buffing was harder than souveran but less than applying) that I don't think I will use DODO again. The wetness is there but the ease of use and slickness is not there.