Review and How-To: Gyeon Compound, Polish and Primer - 1932 Ford Roadster detailed by Mike Phillips

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Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000

Gyeon Primer is similar to CarPro Essence, right?

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I honestly don't know? Never asked, no one ever said. I'll be sending the link to this thread to the my good friends at Gyeon so they'll see you question and if they choose they can answer.

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Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000

Did you really need to use that much Primer?

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Great questions! And you answered it for me in the next sentence...

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Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000

Essence works until it's clear and you only need around 3 pea sized drops after your pad is primed.

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The swirl of product you see on the pad I shared previously... that's the product I used to prime the pad.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...dster_0034.JPG



After setting the camera down I then took the FLEX XFE7 over to the hood and turned the speed down to about the 3 setting. Then lightly setting the face of the pad against the paint on the engine cowl, I turned the polisher on and lightly moved the polisher around over the surface to spread the product over the pad.

After a few seconds I turned the polisher off, turned it over and then applied a thin string of product around the very outside perimeter of the face of the pad. The repeated the step of setting the face of the pad against the paint, turning the polisher on and then lightly moving it around on the paint to spread the product out over the pad.

That was my pad priming procedure.

Then I applied a few small drops of product and proceeded to jewel the hood.


And to go deep on this topic....

When I shared this picture, the picture showing black paint on the face of a white foam pad, this signified the paint on this car is a modern single stage black urethane paint system. Black single stage paint tends to be very soft because the pigment, Carbon Black, affects the paint resin in a way to make it more malleable, or more soft. Kind of the way the pigment for white paint, Titanium Dioxide makes single stage white paint very hard.

The paint on this car isn't the worst I've ever worked on, I'd say the single stage black paint on the Kyle Tucker 1941 Willys is one of the worst single stage paints I've ever worked on. Even so, I was VERY cautious after already investing some time compounding and polishing the paint to perfection to avoid any potential risk of marring the paint with simply dry foam.

So the product you see is the product I used to prime the pad and then as you pointed out, I reduced the amount of product so I had just enough to machine apply a thin layer and worked it till right before it would dissipate. I never went to a dry buff though, there was always a film of product on the surface.

It's called...

Polishing paint is an art form -Mike Phillips

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Originally Posted by rlmccarty2000

Great work as always. It's always great to see new products in action. Thanks.

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Thanks for asking the above question as it gives me a opportunity to share a little tidbit of info that others should know about when using Gyeon Primer.


:dblthumb2:

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Originally Posted by GSKR

Looks awesome mike.If you need a hand just let me know.

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Thanks Jeff.

The wheels and all the chrome in the front suspension really need some polishing and cleaning attention. I simply don't have the time to do the wheel the right way. I'd like to and use it for an article but that will have to be another day.


:)

.

Here's what I just posted to my Facebook page



New from Gyeon - Gyeon Compound, Polish and Primer

Full write-up --> Review and How-To: Gyeon Compound, Polish and Primer - 1932 Ford Roadster detailed by Mike Phillips


Polishing paint is an art form, sure it's a craft but when we as detailers add the human elements of care and passion, not to mention hours of sweat, polishing paint transforms from a craft to an art form and you become a part of the car's history.

When it comes to polishing paint, the MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR is the abrasive technology, you know the stuff inside the bottle.Now days, with all the great chemistry, a product is either GREAT or not. And when I say "not" I mean while it may remove defects it leaves behind it's own defects and this is what I call working backwards.

When polishing paint you always want to be working forwards in the process, each step should make the paint look better and better, never worse or even mediocre. You should NEVER be working backwards in the process.


A lot of guys think pro results are because of how great they are... that was true back in the old days when it actually took some talent, skill and experience to use the caveman compounds and polishes we had back them and make paint look good.

Not so any more...

ANYONE using great abrasive technology can get professional results.

I know first hand as I have people attend my detailing classes that have NEVER machine polished before and their very first time machine polishing they get as good of results as any detailing "personality" in the blogosphere including me. It's simply not that hard when you have great abrasive technology.

In fact with great abrasive technology you can turn out professional results with a $50.00 buffer or a $400.00 buffer because it's less about the tool and less about the person and all about what is physically touching the paint. The better the abrasive technology the less skill it takes.


Yesterday I invested about 8 hours cleaning, claying, compounding, polishing and jeweling the single stage paint on this 1932 Ford Roadster. The paint was on the soft side but still polished out really well using the new Gyeon Compound, Gyeon Polish and Gyeon Primer.

If your a fan of Gyeon products then you're going to love these new products fro Gyeon.


The compound and polish are ZERO dusting products. The buffing cycle is as long or as short as you want it to be. The wipe off is EFFORTLESS. What I also experienced is they appear to be very concentrated products so a little product goes a long way. If you overuse the compound you'll see pilling, that is you'll see little gobs of product rolling up under your buffing pad and flying out, they kind of look like tiny pills, like tiny aspirins. This is a sign of either two things,


1: It's time to either clean your pad or switch to a clean dry pad.

2: You're using too much product.


So monitor your surface as you're buffing and adjust either the amount of product you're using or switch pads often.

The Gyeon Primer is a little trickier to use. This is an Ultra Fine Cut Polish which also leaves the paint prepped for the application of a Gyeon coating or any other LSP you choose to use.

The key to success with Gyeon Primer is to

A: Use an ultra soft foam finishing pad, waxing pad or jeweling pad.

B: Prime your pad so the entire face is lubricated with Gyeon Primer.

C: Only use a few dime sized drops of product per panel.

D: Work the product like you would work a jeweling polish or a jeweling wax. Don't buff to a dry buff but do buff until you just reach the point where all that's left is a light, thin film of product to wipe off. Then wipe off immediately.


I test all compounds, polishes and cleaner/waxes on my favorite black demo hood painted with PPG Deltron Global Refinishing System, (a very good paint system). I can test any compound, polish or cleaner/wax on this demo hood and tell you within a few minutes if the product is great or if the product is junk. Gyeon's new compound, polish and primer products are the real deal.


Black paint approved by Mike Phillips


To see all the pictures, click the below link and it will take you to my write-up on the AGO car detailing discussion forum.

There's simply too many pictures to share effectively in a Facebook message.

Full write-up --> Review and How-To: Gyeon Compound, Polish and Primer - 1932 Ford Roadster detailed by Mike Phillips


The pads used for the compound and polish were the new Lake Country Force Hybrid white polishing and black finishing on the FLEX 3401 aka the BEAST.

For the Gyeon Primer I used the Lake Country ThinPro red waxing pad on the FLEX XFE7 aka The FINISHER.

The swirl finder lights were made by SCANGRIP, my favorite swirl finder lights for not only inspecting paint but also for photography and video work.



All product are available at Autogeek.com

Here's the links,

Gyeon products
GYEON Car Care


Lake Country Force Hybrid
Lake Country Hybrid Power Finish Ultra Performance Pad System, Lake Country Force Hybrid Foam Pads, force pads


Lake Country ThinPro Pads
Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System


FLEX 3401
Flex XC 3401, FLEX Orbital Polisher,flex XC 3401 VRG dual-action polisher,flex XC3401VRG,Dual Action polisher,FLEX buffer

FLEX XFE7
FLEX XFE7-15 Long Stroke Orbital Polisher


SCANGRIP Sunmatch
SCANGRIP Sunmatch, swirl finding light


SCANGRIP Multimatch Tripod Single
SCANGRIP Multimatch Tripod Single


Tagged

• GYEON quartz
• Jeff McEachran
• David Patterson
• Bob Eichelberg
• Flex North America, Inc
• FLEX-Elektrowerkzeuge GmbH
• Lake Country Manufacturing
• Innovative Tools
• Scangrip
• Autogeek

Full write-up --> Review and How-To: Gyeon Compound, Polish and Primer - 1932 Ford Roadster detailed by Mike Phillips

-Mike Phillips

Thanks Mike, looks great!

You mentioned buffing as long or short as needed; does that mean these polishes use SMAT abrasives?

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Originally Posted by WRAPT C5Z06

Thanks Mike, looks great!

You mentioned buffing as long or short as needed; does that mean these polishes use SMAT abrasives?

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Off hand I don't know. (I didn't ask but I will).

If I had to guess I would guess diminishing abrasives. The products buff super smooth, like buffing with butter.


:)

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Originally Posted by Mike Phillips

Off hand I don't know. (I didn't ask but I will).

If I had to guess I would guess diminishing abrasives. The products buff super smooth, like buffing with butter.


:)

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Cool!

The instructions state to spread at low speed(makes sense), but then ramp up to only *medium* speed. When I use the 3401 for compounding, I'm using at least speed 5, but most of the time 6. What speed did you use?

Thanks

Here's a couple of Facebook Live videos I made this morning...


This video shows the products I used and the paint after it was machine waxed

https://www.facebook.com/Mike.Philli...1791288521571/


This video shows the paint after removing the wax inside the garage

https://www.facebook.com/Mike.Philli...1820891851944/


This video shows the paint outside in full sun

https://www.facebook.com/Mike.Philli...1865338514166/



:)

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Originally Posted by WRAPT C5Z06

Cool!

The instructions state to spread at low speed(makes sense), but then ramp up to only *medium* speed. When I use the 3401 for compounding, I'm using at least speed 5, but most of the time 6. What speed did you use?

Thanks

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I turned the dial to 11 :laughing:


Actually just speed setting 6 - I do pretty much all my correction work with the FLEX 3401 with the pedal to the metal. Pretty much anytime I'm detailing cars I'm pressed for time. When pressed for time there's something to be said for speed.



:)

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Originally Posted by mike phillips

i turned the dial to 11 :laughing:


Actually just speed setting 6 - i do pretty much all my correction work with the flex 3401 with the pedal to the metal. Pretty much anytime i'm detailing cars i'm pressed for time. When pressed for time there's something to be said for speed.



:)

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:laughing:

:righton:

Mike, are these DAT or SMAT based?