Long Throw Polisher Proper Technique????

[ski2]

We sometimes hear of members unhappy with their Rupes polishers and the response from many is that you need to "practice the proper technique" for effective results.

So what is the proper technique when using a long throw polisher?? How does it differ from a conventional 6 or 8mm throw polisher??

I have a G15 on the way from AG's sale last week and want to start off on the right foot.

[ski2]

Anyone have input???

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

I think the only real differences are the priming and frequency of pad changes.

Only prime the pad with a few drops of polish so it doesn't slung all over the place when your turn the machine on.

Change pads often to avoid heat build up. Keep 6-8 pads handy and rotate them out after each section.

Also, you don't need the heavy down pressure you do with conventional polishers. The long orbit does most of the work.


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[mbpress01]

Ski2, well you nailed it. I have asked this question over and over again - see my recent thread regarding my Rupes vs Flex experience. I have seen a one clip of the rupes on curvy panel video a while ago (i can't remember but it wasn't very helpful) and it only showed the tip of the polisher on the curvy panel. Try doing that on 1/2 the car.

Flex - first time experience

Better for the experts to comment but my experience was that the technique involved angling the polisher (and to some extent the pressure) so that it somewhat sits flat against the panel. And then using the tips of the pad to polish the panel. That may work for some but clearly not for me.

For flat horizontal panels you will not have any problems. However, anytime you have a curvy/vertical panel (especially a door that is convex or concave) I believe you will get very frustrated and wind up spending huge amounts of time trying to get the polisher to spin. I know I did and I had the whole Rupes line. After a while I scrapped it. I hate to say this but maybe you should return your newly purchased G15 and just buy the Flex. The whole issue of "technique" goes away, just polish in record amount of time with excellent results.

If you stay with G15 please post your experience and if it works your technique.

[Rod73]

This thread is interesting because I've just got into using and getting down The Kevin Brown method with my Porter Cable. And now I just got a Duetto coming soon. So it will be interesting to see what adjustment if any I will need to make with the Rupes polisher.

[Jaretr1]

I use the Mike Phillips method (he is who I learned from, watching his videos and taking his class). I have used a PC7424XP multiple times and recently got a Rupes LH21. I didnt change my technique from how I was using the PC and it worked just fine. I didnt have a problem with pads coming apart or anything. I was even able to use the Rupes around curved edges just fine. Its a DA, it will stop spinning if the pressure is uneven like any DA will. Its a matter of keeping the tool balanced and let it do the work.

[RaskyR1]

IMO, It's really just a matter of adjusting pressure, tool/pad angle, and/or increasing tool speed if needed. Make a mark on you're backing plate so you know when it's rotating and if it happens to stall on a curved panel section play around with the amount of pressure and adjust pad angle until it rotates. I forget who it was that said this, but I agree with them 100%....They said that those who started out on a rotary will probably have a better idea on how to approach these areas as the way you need angle the machine is very similar. Once you get the hang of it you will just naturally adjust without even thinking about it.

[dlc95]

Over the winter, I practiced on a test panel in the basement. I have a mirror set up for me to monitor my posture while drumming.

I moved the mirror so I could monitor my technique on the test panel with the 3401, 7424xp, and the Duetto. I noticed that I had a tendency to lower the chassis of the machine a tad, which had a direct impact on the performance of the 7424xp, and Duetto. With that new revelation, I was able to transfer that awareness to the vehicles I've been polishing this season, and it's significantly expedited my overall time, and made working with the Flex that much smoother.

[4u2nvinmtl]

Well after reading this I guess I'm going to hold off buying another polisher. I did have some issues with my PC-7424 stopping but I've been able to master it using the edge (1/2 to 1/3) of the pad in order to keep it spinning and/or using smaller pads when coming across curves, if that doesn’t work I play with the pitch and roll of the polisher (for lack of a better description).

I've done a full orange peel removal with just a PC-7424xp and some denim pads (took forever). That project is what got me wanting a Rupes 21 or a Flex 3401, but now that my major correction is done I won't be doing much other than spot compounding scratches and re-polish (as needed).

I was really hoping the Rupes 21, Flex 3401, or Boss 21 would cut my working time enough to offset the cost of the tool but as I’m just a hobbyist detailer with perfect paint I doubt I’ll be polishing/compounding very much unless I start taking on friends cars.

Oh well, more money for go fast mods!

[Kitoy22]

IMO, It's really just a matter of adjusting pressure, tool/pad angle, and/or increasing tool speed if needed. Make a mark on you're backing plate so you know when it's rotating and if it happens to stall on a curved panel section play around with the amount of pressure and adjust pad angle until it rotates. I forget who it was that said this, but I agree with them 100%....They said that those who started out on a rotary will probably have a better idea on how to approach these areas as the way you need angle the machine is very similar. Once you get the hang of it you will just naturally adjust without even thinking about it.

This is also what I believe in, i coudn't have said it better. Just to help you more ski2, in using the machine effectively, you should understand how was it designed and its concept of paint correction.
Remember, unlike other orbital polishers, this has a longer throw. And this long throw together with enough pad rotation will be enough to remove paint defects. Having said that, as rasky has mentioned, your technique should be focused on maintaing the rotation of the pad, by varying pressure, angle of the pad touching the paint surface.
Unlike my GG6, or other conventional orbital short throw polishers, applying pressure while maintaining pad rotation (bump up the speed) gives more correction power.
With rupes, you dont need to apply so much pressure just to get more paint defect correction. Hope this helps.