Questions from an amateur enthusiast...

[deutschemak]

Hi Folks,
I am new to the community and this is my first post (sorry about the length).

My brain is on information overload from all of the good information presented by everyone here. After doing a lot of research, I think I've narrowed myself to getting the FLEX/Wolfgang combo. It seems like it is something I can do without killing my paint.

Speaking of paint, here is what I have...

- 2014 F150/2-tone gray/silver metallic/no scratches or DISO/chrome wheels - this is my daily driver that is in the sun 24/7/365.
- 2014 Expedition/metallic silver/no scratches or DISO/chrome wheels - this stays in the garage until the wife takes the kiddos shopping, or to karate, etc.

And now, my questions:

1. After doing the baggie test, both of them have the same very, very, very fine sandpaper feel to them (no big bumps or hills and valleys). Neither of them bead water, so I don't believe the dealership put any products on them. The question is ... do I need to iron-x, then clay both of them?

2. The question is ... If I do need to clay, and since I do not have any swirls or scratches, should I use the WG total swirl remover. If no swirl remover, do I use the WG finishing glaze, then the WG polish enhancer, then the WGpaint sealant, then the Fuzion?

3. Both of them have water spots on the paint, chrome wheels, (due to a neighbor's sprinklers which have since been fixed, but nonetheless, left the stains). The spots do not come out with just a wash, and I haven't used any other product to remove them. I believe the clay will take the spots off of both vehicles, but I am really concerned about claying the wheels. The question is ... will claying hurt the wheels, and if so, would a cleaner like CarPro Spotless or something else get them out ( I thought about using blue Wenol, but would like your advice)?

4. I saw Mike use the blue, tangerine, and red LC Hydro pads in a video using the FLEX and WG products. The question is ... Can I use those same pads using the WG polish enhancer and FUZION? If not, which pads should I get?

5. And finally, after I've done all of this to both vehicles, I want to keep them looking nice for a little while. The question is ... what should I be using to keep them looking nice for a little while ? I was looking at the Black Diamond Waterless wash and All-purpose cleaner to keep them clean, and then the using the WG Instant detail spritz and then the spritz sealant. Another question ... is this overkill? I don't want to strip the wax off, so I'm a little lost on the maintenance side of this.

Thanks so much for the help and direction!

-MAK

[David Hayward]

To figure out which products to use you will want to do a test spot. Try the finishing glaze of that alone doesn't do it for you try with the swirl remover and then finishing glaze. If you use ultimate swirl remover or the finishing glaze or both you can skip the paint gloss enhancer step and go right to the final product, sealant, wax or product of your choice.

[BobbyG]

To Autogeek Online MAK!

Although your vehicles are new, it's still important to start with the basics and develop a maintenance regiment.

Basic steps in order are:

• Wash
• Clay
• Paint Correction & Polish
• Seal
• Wax

Wash

Washing with a quality car wash is the first step in the right direction. One of my favorite car wash concentrate is Duragloss Car Wash Concentrate #901.

Clay

Claying the finish next is quick yet so important to ensure embedded debris and particulates are removed for a glass-like smoothness. My clay of choice is Meguiar's Detail Clay.

Iron-X is quite a product and I use it after washing and claying. This is important as it makes little sense to needlessly waste product on contaminates that would be removed during these two steps.

Polish

Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer is your last chance to create a memorable gloss before wax application. Wolfgang’s prewax cleanser removes old waxes and sealants, light oxidation, and paint contamination to reveal deep color and gloss. Once you apply a wax or paint sealant, it will enhance the smooth, clean paint created by Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer.

If you want the ultimate gloss, it starts with Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer!

Wheels

Factory wheels benefit greatly from using the same fine polish that you used on your paint. By hand or polish using a Mothers Power Ball, your wheels will look better than new in no time.

Protect your wheels with a clear sealant or wax of your choice or perhaps with a hard clear coating such as CQuartz by CarPro which also can be used to protect your finish.

Hydro Pads

Polishing

Tangerine Ultra Polishing Foam - The tangerine foam is made for light to moderate defect removal and polishing. It has the cutting power just below that of the Lake Country orange light cutting pad, and the tangerine pad leaves a finish like you'd achieve with a gray finishing pad.



Use a finishing polish or fine swirl remover to create a deep gloss. Menzerna Super Finish and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze are two excellent choices for this pad.

For applying sealants and waxes


Crimson Finishing Foam - The crimson foam is designed to apply waxes, glazes, and sealants in flawless, even coats without causing swirls. The soft foam has very light polishing ability, making it a great choice for cleaner waxes, too.


Since the crimson pad is made of Hydro-Tech foam, it does not soak up liquid waxes and paint sealants like some finishing pads can. You'll be able to cover more paint with less product. The crimson pad is a great choice to apply Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0.

For general maintenance use the wash I recommended above or use a rinseless wash to keep the finish sparkling clean. As a booster use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant.

[Dan K]

Bobby's response popped up as I was finishing typing this. He is spot on as always with his recommendations, but since I had this typed up anyway I figured I would post it.


1. It would be best to ironx then clay both.

2. As David said, test spot first. The polish enhancer is basically a paint cleaner with minor filling properties. You will not need to use it if you are using tsr or the finishing glaze (which despite the name is actually a light/finishing polish). If you are happy with your paint as it is now, you probably won't use the tsr.

The Fuzion is not necessary, purely personal preference. You will be blown away by the sealant itself.

3. The clay may not remove all of the water spots from the paint, but the glaze or tsr should, depending on the severity of the spots. Are the wheels true chrome or chrome clad, as most wheels now are? If they are chrome clad, you do not want to use metal polishes on them. A product like Meguiar's Cleaner Wax is what you want. I found this out after more than 2 years of struggling with the wheels on my wife's Ford Edge.

4. As you will likely hear from others, the Lake Country 5 inch Hybrid pads are the best pads for the Flex, along with the Lake Country backing plate kit. With that said, the hydro pads will work fine. You would probably only need orange for tsr, orange or red for finishing glaze. After you use a pad for the sealant, you will want to dedicate that pad for sealant in the future. Let your sealant cure for at least 12 hours before subjecting it to water.

5. The waterless wash is good for maintenance washing. The sealant is going to keep the finish slick and easy to clean, and you shouldn't need any other strong cleaners. I would forget the detail spritz and just go with the spritz sealant. You don't need to use it after every time you wash, but you can if you want. It will extend the durability of your sealant, and enhance the shine. Wolfgang recommends that the spritz sealant sit for 12 hours before being subjected to water.

Wolfgang is an awesome product line, enjoy and post some pics when you have those Fords shining!

[deutschemak]

The clay may not remove all of the water spots from the paint, but the glaze or tsr should, depending on the severity of the spots.

Okay, so I will go with the glaze after clay and ironx.

Are the wheels true chrome or chrome clad, as most wheels now are? If they are chrome clad, you do not want to use metal polishes on them. A product like Meguiar's Cleaner Wax is what you want. I found this out after more than 2 years of struggling with the wheels on my wife's Ford Edge.

Do I use the cleaner wax with the powerball bobby suggested?

As you will likely hear from others, the Lake Country 5 inch Hybrid pads are the best pads for the Flex, along with the Lake Country backing plate kit.

Oh sure!...hybrid vs. hydro sheesh So, which of the hybrid pads should I get. I'm thinking blue or white for the glaze, yellow for the sealant, and black for the fuzion (or Collinite #845 now because I see all the great reviews sheesh..too much good stuff!)

Thanks again for the very quick responses. I'm looking at doing both vehicles this weekend (yep...wife gave me the go-ahead to spend both days in the garage )

[Dan K]

Yes, use the powerball with the cleaner wax. The smaller ball was the right size for me.

Hybrid pads - black, yellow, or white for the glaze (depending on level of cut you want from the pad). Black for sealant. A lot of hybrid users probably just buy the orange, white, and black pads. These will handle most if not all of your polishing needs. I have a couple yellow and blue, but mainly use the others.

You will need either the lake country interchangeable backing plate system or a backing plate smaller than 4" diameter to use the 5" hybrids, so your initial investment will be higher if you go with the hybrids. The factory flex backing plate will extend past the backing material of the 5" pad and will chew up the back side of the foam. The 6.5" hybrid pads fit the factory flex plate, but most people seem to prefer the experience of the 5" pads and interchangeable system.

Collinite 845 is an awesome product as well. You can't go wrong either way.

[brondondolon]

Clay the paint with either IronX, nanoskin, or clay. My personal favorite, IF IM GOING TO BE DOING ANY TYPE OF POLISHING, is nanoskin

Clay alone might not be enough to remove the water spots depending. Pick up a bottle of spotless. Its great stuff.

Depending on what type of wheels they are depends on what you should use on them. If they are painted clay is fine. If they are polished metal id use spotless or wenols. Id try the wenols first.

When you mention the APC to keep the vehicles clean i hope you mean on tires and trim only. Id never use APC on the paint especially if im concerned about it stripping the wax.

Hope that helps

[deutschemak]

Clay the paint with either IronX, nanoskin, or clay. My personal favorite, IF IM GOING TO BE DOING ANY TYPE OF POLISHING, is nanoskin

I thought about the nanoskin, but I wasn't sure if it was something I could do since I'm a complete noob when it comes to this. As for claying the paint with IronX...I didn't know I could do that without the clay lube.

When you mention the APC to keep the vehicles clean i hope you mean on tires and trim only. Id never use APC on the paint especially if im concerned about it stripping the wax.

OH...thanks for that! See, I would've used that, not knowing it would strip the wax.

Hope that helps

It most definitely does!!!!!

Dan, thanks for the pad info...5" orange, white, and black it is, along with the backing plate. Oh, and can I use the WG spritz sealant over the #845 after I wash? And when you say "wash", are you referring to the DG 901 way, or the waterless way (sorry for the silly question...just a bit confused )

[alexxxx89]

The nanoskin sponge is better than clay based on size (sponge covers way more surface area than a piece of clay and doesn't have to be constantly re shaped) however there is a small learning curve (at least I did, being used to clay l left more than one black streak with the sponge from pressing too hard). If you are going to go big, get a nanoskin wash mitt or towel.

I would also get a bottle of Optimum No Rinse. It will save you money with its versatility (clay lube, waterless wash, quick detailer, rinseless wash) and definitely helps with regular 2 bucket washing.

Ooh, and definitely don't skimp on microfiber towels! Especially if you intend to regularly WW. It would be silly to be the source of marring lol.

[deutschemak]

Okay...my order arrives today and I will be working on one (maybe both depending on your answers) of our two cars tomorrow. Here is my plan, along with a few questions at the bottom that I'm hoping y'all can help me with.

1. Got a ton of mf's (per Alexxxx89)
2. Wash with DG 901 (per BobbyG)
3. Remove waterspots on windows with Spotless (per brondondolon)
4. IronX (per Dan K)
5. Rewash then dry
6. Tape the car per Mike's youtube vid's
7. Clay with Meg's (per BobbyG)
8. Paint correction/Polish with WGFG on a test spot (per David) with appropriate pads (per Dan K) using FLEX3401 and backing plate
9. Machine apply paint sealant with WGDGPS
10. Machine apply Collinite 845 over WGDGPS
11. Going to do the wheels (per Dan K's suggestion)
12. Stand back and hopefully admire the hard work
13. Post pics of the outcome

So here are my questions:

• How long do I need to let WGDGPS cure before applying 845? I've read anywhere from 4 - 24 hours. If I let it cure for 8 hours in the sunny NorCal sun (80 deg's tomorrow) is that okay?
• Do I need to let the 845 cure for a specific amount of time before applying a 2nd coat to make sure I have complete coverage?
• Will a stiff nylon brush be okay to use when cleaning the pads on the fly?
• Finally, Saturday is supposed to be 68 and rainy around here. Do I need to worry about cure times based on the weather?

Thanks everyone!
-MAK