Doublecheck my process please

[Saurex]

Hello Mike/Everyone else

Going to be coating my car after procrastinating for 2 years (which is when I bought it). Its a 2019 Honda Accord with Dark Grey paint. The paint/clearcoat is in every good condition, some light marring here and there but other than that its fine. It has never been detailing so going to be the giving it the whole works, was just hoping someone could critique/double-check my planned process. I did my best to Google everything but there are so many products that I kept getting overloaded with information and then procrastinating more. The products are almost all going to be Gyeon as it's pretty easy to get in Canada (compared to some of the other stuff)

Initial Coating

1. Wash
2. Gyeon Iron (is this step needed?)
3. Clay (is a clay mitt ok?)
4. Polish with a very light cutting pad (the clearcoat is VERY soft) and ChemicalGuys V36 (it's what I have lying around)
5. Gyeon Prep
6. Gyeon CanCoat

I picked CanCoat because it looks really good, and since I live in very harsh winters, I will probably need to detail any coating thats rated for 1 year twice a year anyway, so might aswell go with something super fast and easy.

I also have questions regarding the maintenance after I am done. Gyeon has Bathe+, Cure and Wetcoat as far as I can tell. Everyone always talks about Gyeon Cure in conjunction with the rest of the products but based based on Gyeons website, the Wetcoat has the best durability and gloss, followed by Bathe+. Also, how often should these products be used? The Bathe+ says 8 weeks durability, so would it be ok to use it every wash? If so seems to me to be the easiest solution.

Finally, regarding paint decontamination, should I be doing it before using maintenance products like Cure (assuming it's what you guys recommend).

Thanks in advance!

[dgage]

Your process looks good and you probably should do an iron decontamination. Claying shouldn’t be done unless it is needed and you’d test for that using the baggy test, which is to put your hand in a plastic bag and drag across your wet car. If it feels rough, which it likely will, especially on the rear of the car, you need to clay. And if you clay, you need to polish as it can sometimes mar the surface slightly. Then prep and CanCoat.

Regarding adding anything extra, CanCoat is good enough on its own and adding something could modify the coating behavior. So I might just suggest getting Bathe and using that if you want to stay in the family. Not sure what Gyeon recommends for a periodic contamination bath but you could also use Iron and Tar to clean the car periodically and then refresh with CanCoat so maybe use CC 4 times a year instead of twice. But CC is definitely good enough to last even a full year if cared for. Good luck.

[The Guz]

Your process looks good. As far as maintenance, that's a tough call because its going to come down to personal preference. You don't need to use Bathe+ every wash and you don't need to stack anything on top of it. Sometimes too much silica can mute the paint. I always had success with Cure and using it as often as desired. It works well on dry paint as well as a drying aid.

[Saurex]

Your process looks good and you probably should do an iron decontamination. Claying shouldn’t be done unless it is needed and you’d test for that using the baggy test, which is to put your hand in a plastic bag and drag across your wet car. If it feels rough, which it likely will, especially on the rear of the car, you need to clay. And if you clay, you need to polish as it can sometimes mar the surface slightly. Then prep and CanCoat.

Regarding adding anything extra, CanCoat is good enough on its own and adding something could modify the coating behavior. So I might just suggest getting Bathe and using that if you want to stay in the family. Not sure what Gyeon recommends for a periodic contamination bath but you could also use Iron and Tar to clean the car periodically and then refresh with CanCoat so maybe use CC 4 times a year instead of twice. But CC is definitely good enough to last even a full year if cared for. Good luck.

Your process looks good. As far as maintenance, that's a tough call because its going to come down to personal preference. You don't need to use Bathe+ every wash and you don't need to stack anything on top of it. Sometimes too much silica can mute the paint. I always had success with Cure and using it as often as desired. It works well on dry paint as well as a drying aid.

Thank you both so much. Follow up question, I assumed when people said "x product will last y amount of time if cared for", it meant using top up products. If not, does it just mean keeping it clean? My goal essentially is good self cleaning, especially for the salty winter roads, and good looks. As long as it lasts 6 months I'm happy.

[dgage]

Thank you both so much. Follow up question, I assumed when people said "x product will last y amount of time if cared for", it meant using top up products. If not, does it just mean keeping it clean? My goal essentially is good self cleaning, especially for the salty winter roads, and good looks. As long as it lasts 6 months I'm happy.

A coating, with or without toppers, could mar if a contaminated rag or towel is used so being careful how you touch your car is what is meant. Also, taking care of bugs and especially bird droppings as soon as you notice them as coatings are better than most but an acidic bird dropping can etch the paint quickly regardless of what is layered on your car.

You mention wash as a single item on your list but how you wash (and dry) is incredibly important to keeping your car swirl free. Many Autogeeks have gone to car shows where the owners are proud as can be of their car and an Autogeek just sees swirls and other defects. It can be a sickness so be careful how far you go or you’ll be forever tainted.

Welcome to the deep hole of AGO.

[Saurex]

A coating, with or without toppers, could mar if a contaminated rag or towel is used so being careful how you touch your car is what is meant. Also, taking care of bugs and especially bird droppings as soon as you notice them as coatings are better than most but an acidic bird dropping can etch the paint quickly regardless of what is layered on your car.

You mention wash as a single item on your list but how you wash (and dry) is incredibly important to keeping your car swirl free. Many Autogeeks have gone to car shows where the owners are proud as can be of their car and an Autogeek just sees swirls and other defects. It can be a sickness so be careful how far you go or you’ll be forever tainted.

Welcome to the deep hole of AGO.

Ah ok I see. I see alot of people saying they use the Cure every couple of months on top the CanCoat but it just didn't make sense to me, since the topper would have different properties relative to the CanCoat which is reviewed so highly (for the price and ease of use).

As for my wash, unfortunately I dont have half the kit that I would like. I would like to get a foam canon but for now its very basic. Grab a buckets and do my tires and rims with some wheel brushes. Empty first bucket and grab a second bucket. One has the soap and one is to rinse out wash mitt. I am going to be grabbing the Detail Popo Twisted Rain 1400GSM Drying Towel (I would like but I am not sure if I am allowed to link to external stores) based off Apex Details review. He dries his Corvette twice over with 1 towel with no streaking. Going to be using the Gyeon Bathe (not the plus) just because its part of the same lineup, no other reason really, not averse to using something else.

Last question though, is using something like Gyeon Tar necessary before claying? Gyeon recommends it before using the CanCoat, but again, I tend not to trust manufactures when they tell you to use more of their products

[The Guz]

Thank you both so much. Follow up question, I assumed when people said "x product will last y amount of time if cared for", it meant using top up products. If not, does it just mean keeping it clean? My goal essentially is good self cleaning, especially for the salty winter roads, and good looks. As long as it lasts 6 months I'm happy.

Don't worry to o much about durability. There are too many factors to consider that will affect it just based on each persons maintenance.

Ah ok I see. I see alot of people saying they use the Cure every couple of months on top the CanCoat but it just didn't make sense to me, since the topper would have different properties relative to the CanCoat which is reviewed so highly (for the price and ease of use).

As for my wash, unfortunately I dont have half the kit that I would like. I would like to get a foam canon but for now its very basic. Grab a buckets and do my tires and rims with some wheel brushes. Empty first bucket and grab a second bucket. One has the soap and one is to rinse out wash mitt. I am going to be grabbing the Detail Popo Twisted Rain 1400GSM Drying Towel (I would like but I am not sure if I am allowed to link to external stores) based off Apex Details review. He dries his Corvette twice over with 1 towel with no streaking. Going to be using the Gyeon Bathe (not the plus) just because its part of the same lineup, no other reason really, not averse to using something else.

Last question though, is using something like Gyeon Tar necessary before claying? Gyeon recommends it before using the CanCoat, but again, I tend not to trust manufactures when they tell you to use more of their products

Don't worry about toppers changing anything. The products are designed to work with each other. You use it whenever and as often as you like. With proper maintenance CanCoat has the potential to last just over a year. That is speaking from experience using it.

To answer your question you use a tar remover if you have tar.