Old school guy needs help!

[MarkD51]

OK folks, I need your good advice.

I've got a very clean 1997 Tahoe LT (in my avatar) that has an original 39K on the odometer. I'm the original owner.

Been a Collinite guy for 15 years, and have used a variety of waxes-sealants on this truck, like Zaino, Collinite, Meggy's #20, the vehicle has been clayed, and glazed (3M Hand Glaze) a couple times in the past, paint is smooth, and very nice considering it's the original paint.

I'm noticing a slight lack of lustrous high "new car" shine gloss on the paint. Although the paint looks clean, deep, superbly kept, considering 6 chicago winters, and the last 10 in the NM Desert Sun, and heat, I would like to perhaps strip the paint, and start again somehow, with some added gloss, and shine, without damaging the paint, or removing any precious paint that's left in the process.

I got some fresh Clay Bars sitting around, but I wish to know what cleaner-polish product should I be looking at to enhance gloss, and beauty of my paint, which is white clear coat.

I was thinking of a simple clay bar again after a good wash, and perhaps to use something like Pinnacle Paint Scrubber? (Is that what it's called?)

I'm old school, and am thinking of the "old" rigamarole of pulling out buffer, and glaze, but will this be the best way, that I might be removing-damaging more of the precious paint in the process?

I'm thinking of something that has absolutely no abrasives, but will enhance shine-high gloss, and bring the paint back to an earlier age without a downside removal of precious clear coat.

[Rsurfer]

Clay first and use Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and seal with Collinite. To get a real nice gloss, you will need to polish. Being white you maybe better off doing just the paint cleaner and wax.

[MarkD51]

Clay first and use Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and seal with Collinite. To get a real nice gloss, you will need to polish. Being white you maybe better off doing just the paint cleaner and wax.

The product you mention, is the product I was considering using. Sorry, that my brain has been quite overloaded with the vast reading I have done through this forum's archives over the past month.

I am well aware of the camp of "do the least amount of harm" to achieve the desired results. Meaning as you folks well know, to use the least agressive methods, and products to achieve those final results.

As I said, I'm old school, I don;t have one of the new kid on the block Porter Cable 7424XP machine, but do have a perfect Milwaukee Variable Speed Polisher.

Weighs a ton of course, but is mint, and has the Velcro Backing Plate, and have a number of Meggys, and 3M Waffle Foam Pads. I do know how to use machine Glazes quite well, have a good bit of experience under my belt using such, but I would prefer to stay away from such, unless there's no other way, to attain high gloss, without resorting to a mahcine, and some sort of cleanser, or very mild polish.

I'm also the type of person who's not afraid of costs.

I've been kicling around the thought of buying a Porter Cable Machine, some Lake County Pads, and the varied assortment of first class Pinnacle, Wolfgang, Menzerna, etc products if needed.

My thoughts are "better to do the job the right, and correct way first time out", rather than go down a myriad of wrong avenues to attain results the "hard" way.

I'm gathering the Pinacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion can be used either by hand, or machine? By hand of course may be much gentler, but I'm also considering, and worrying about the fact that optimum high gloss might not be achieved by hand? Thanks again, Mark

[MarkD51]

Here's maybe a better pic of my ride. Mark

PS: White is an SOB to show quality of paint in a pic. Correct lighting is certainly needed.

[mwoolfso]

Why not figure out what you need in steps?

Go to the local auto store and get a good cleaner/wax and some microfiber applicator pads. I am thinking Duragloss, Mothers or Meguiars products in that order if at all possible.

On a "test panel", do a 50/50 test. Put some tape down the middle of a panel and on one side, wash and clay the test side and then apply the cleaner/wax by hand using the microfiber pads. See if you get the gloss you desire. If not satisfied, get some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and apply that by hand. If you go this far, then the cleaner/wax is factored out of the full process you will apply to the whole car and you will need to perform a correction pass using UC or a stronger polish.

At this point posting pics would help get you some more guidance. The cost for the above is negligible.

In terms of polishing and LSP products, my vote for your Tahoe is Duragloss for correction and Optimum Car Wax for your LSP. OCW has the UV inhibitors and that will help maintain your new gloss.

[Rsurfer]

Here's maybe a better pic of my ride. Mark

PS: White is an SOB to show quality of paint in a pic Right lighting is certainly needed.

Nice ride Mark. Yes you can do the paint cleaner by hand. Your PS is absolutely true. Even with the right lighting, white, silver and light colors are hard to show gloss, but at the same time, hides marring very well.

[MarkD51]

Thank you all for your help.

I have considered, and thought hard of some certain "facts".

I've owned many beautiful cars in my years, a '67 White Stingray, a '68 SS396 Camaro in Lemans Blue, a mint "66 T-Bird Town Coupe as some, and some newer rides, before I got the Tahoe, a new 94 Lincoln Town Car in all Black (God, I don't think I'll ever buy another black ride in this lifetime! LOL)

I've thought of the fact, that back in 1997, Chevrolet wasn't exactly throwing Bentley, and Porsche Carrera Paintjobs on these trucks, that I will no doubt never be able to achieve such concours high quality with such paint applications on this vehicle. It is what it is, nothing less, and nothing more. So that is something to consider I reckon.

Quite a few of these trucks I seen when I was in the market to purchase-order, and so many had the most horrid, orange peeled paint that has come from GM in the last 40 years. Those "taxicab" Impala SS's were not much better it seems in many cases, as I once looked at a few, but backed away.

But, I'm thinking I may possibly have a build up of too many old products on my paint, and need to get back down to bare clean paint, that a clay bar properly used won't hurt again.

That a paint cleanser should remove old products, that I can start fresh.

I've been using Collinite products like Double Coat, and Insulator Wax probably long before this forum was created. I'm old, and cratchety enough, that I do remember using products such as the original Blue Coral ('67 Vette)

The other consideration is that father time takes its toll no matter what. That to possess new looking paint, then maybe it's a trip to the paint shop? LOL Mark

[Setec Astronomy]

If you're proficient with your Milwaukee, why not use that? If you have soft (finishing) pads for it, and they are more like 5 or 6" rather than 7 or 8", you can go at it at low RPM with the Pinnacle paint cleaner.

Or get yourself a smaller backing plate and some new pads, with a soft black or red finishing pad of small diameter and low RPM's with a paint cleaner like that you won't be taking any measurable clear off.

[Vegas Transplant]

I am well aware of the camp of "do the least amount of harm" to achieve the desired results. Meaning as you folks well know, to use the least agressive methods, and products to achieve those final results.

As I said, I'm old school, I don;t have one of the new kid on the block Porter Cable 7424XP machine, but do have a perfect Milwaukee Variable Speed Polisher.

...but I would prefer to stay away from such, unless there's no other way, to attain high gloss, without resorting to a mahcine, and some sort of cleanser, or very mild polish.



I've been kicling around the thought of buying a Porter Cable Machine, some Lake County Pads, and the varied assortment of first class Pinnacle, Wolfgang, Menzerna, etc products if needed.

My thoughts are "better to do the job the right, and correct way first time out", rather than go down a myriad of wrong avenues to attain results the "hard" way.

I'm gathering the Pinacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion can be used either by hand, or machine? By hand of course may be much gentler, but I'm also considering, and worrying about the fact that optimum high gloss might not be achieved by hand? Thanks again, Mark

Optimum PolySeal
Optimum 6.25" MF polishing pad @ 900-1000 rpm on the Milwaukee VSP
OOS
OCW

Simply the best, easiest, most productive solution to your issue, IMO.


High Mileage Neglected Daily Driver Resurrected

This was only PolySeal/OCW.

Last weekend, stripped, OPII, OFP/6.5 foam finishing pad jeweling, OOS, OCW. Will post write-up soon.

[BobbyG]

What's happened to the paint is age. Because of the climate the sun's had time to beat it up over the years and I suspect there's a good deal of oxidation that needs removing.

Since you're old school like me then the rotary will be ideal for now and I suggest you pick up some foam pads in the 6" variety. These pads make controlling the machine much easier then the larger one.

Basic steps in order are:

• Wash
• Clay
• Paint Correction & Polish
• Seal
• Wax

A 1-step product might be the ideal product for you to use. Many of these products contain cleaners and mild abrasives specially designed for finishes like yours.

• BlackFire Total Polish & Seal
• Meguiar's D151
• Duragloss 501
• Optimum GPS
• Poorboy's World Polish with Sealant

Use these with an Orange or While foam pad on a speed setting around 1200 - 1500 will produce amazing results. Once through apply a coat of Collinite 845 for maximum gloss and protection...