How to use a Rotary Polisher

[Mike Phillips]

Read through this too...


Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer

[Shockvvave]

You're awesome Mike!

I will and have continued to watch and read more articles. All are great.

My next question is passes and arm speed.

What are the correct passes and arm speed with a rotary?

Compound?
Polish?
Micro?

I do have blue and red LC pads I use for waxes. Should I use gold for all finishes(jeweling)?

These are the products I have currently. 3m60608 ultra fine polish and v38 chemical guys ultra fine. It seems like the 3m I have is correct?

I'm going to buy your book next week. I really like supporting people who give back to the community. And you do just that so thank you!

Read through this too...


Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer

[Garyhw48]

I am a little late getting in on this discussion, sickness.

I wouldn't give up my Flex 3401 and use it often but it's hard not to use the PE14, it's so quiet and smooth.

I've been using a rotary for many years and get perfect results every time from start to finish by just using the same foam pads that I use on the 3401. Like Mike says, I hardly ever go above 900 RPM.

I have some of all of the LC pad line and they all work on the PE14 and give flawless results, from cutting to jeweling.

When teamed up with Menzerna, Wolfgang, Pinnacle, DP or any of the other high quality polishes and waxes I get a lot of satisfaction looking at the reflections they produce.

Those who haven't had the pleasure of holding the Flex PE14 in your hands don't know what you are missing. Once you try it you won't use any other polisher except the 3401.

You will find the PE14 your main go to machine. It is the finest tool I have ever owned.

[RPM_BR]

I've had the PE14 for almost a month now, done two cars with it (Mercedes B200/FG 400 and a Pajero/SF 2500), but always finishing with the 3401 (Menz 4000 and Menz 4500). Indeed, it is an amazing tool, best rotary I've ever laid my hands on. And I had an Einhell, urgh .
My polishing heaven is the Menzerna line, 3401, PE14, Rupes 21 and LC Hybrid. And a PC for wax/sealant. I'm also considering buying another Flex 3401, so I don't have to keep exchanging backing plates.
I would like to try the Rupes 15, though, because sometimes I put a 5 inch backing plate on my 21.
This expensive setup makes sense if you do detailing for a living; if you don't, Flex 3401 as a stand alone, for its versatility, and possibly PE14 as a complement if you have the $ for it.

[Mike Phillips]

My next question is passes and arm speed.

What are the correct passes and arm speed with a rotary?

Compound?
Polish?
Micro?

The answer kind of depends on what you're working on and what you're trying to accomplish.

Some of the new hi-tech compounds are formulated for low RPM so all the old school guys need to retrain their brain and their reflex actions when buffing.

Also depend on what you're working on. For example gel-coat boats tend to like high speeds like the 1500+ rpm range. If you're cutting off major oxidation high speeds with a wool pad and compound like gravel tends to chew through it pretty quick. Even for final polishing with a rotary gel-coat or polyester resin just seems to like higher speeds and harder pads than automotive clear coats.

When it comes to automotive clear coats, I can only speak for myself but a max of about 1500 to 1700 rpm for heavy cutting and/or removing sanding marks and keep the polisher moving at a medium to fast clip. You go to slow nd you'll create too much heat too fast. For the last little bit of removing whatever it is you're trying to remove you can go up on edge and do what I call skimming over the paint but this is done with a very watchful eye on the paint surface as you chase out the last bit of defects, (whatever it is you're trying to remove), till they're gone. It's a lot easier to show than it is to type about.

For polishing and finishing slower RPMs, a max of about 1000 to 1200 rpm.

For jewelling I use slow rpms. Don't even understand how anyone could use high rpms on a scratch-sensitive clearcoat finish and expect to leave a swirl free finish.

Jewelling also requires changing pads very often. Not just often but very often because as a jewelling pad becomes wet with product.... it will....

I do have blue and red LC pads I use for waxes. Should I use gold for all finishes(jeweling)?

I do.

These are the products I have currently. 3m60608 ultra fine polish and v38 chemical guys ultra fine. It seems like the 3m I have is correct?

3M makes great body shop products. Last I checked they don't make a single product where on their label they specifically state the product is formulated for or intended for use with any dual action polisher.

The Perfect-it 3000 Ultrafine, (not Ultrafina unless you're south of the border), is their best and finest finishing polish and with a foam finishing pad you can create incredible depth and shine.

I have to be honest though and I tend to use other polishes for the final finishing step. Products that can be used by both rotary buffer and dual action polishers.

Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish - This is what I use on a lot of show cars and it's also the brand I've switched Wayne Carini's shop over to and he consistently works on million dollar cars.

Menzerna SF4000 and SF4500 and SF4500 has a long time reputation and loyal following as the ultimate jewelling polish.

Wolfgang Finishing Polish

Sonax Nano Polish

Optimum Finish Polish

Rupes Diamond Ultra Fine Cut Polish


The above are just a few I think would be hard to screw up no matter how you applied them and they will finish out more consistently with a foam pad on any tool on the widest spectrum of paint types.

I'm going to buy your book next week. I really like supporting people who give back to the community. And you do just that so thank you!

I worked very hard on all my current books. If a person reads them from cover to cover, chances are very good they will learn a lot that they didn't already know and in most cases I will say they will know more than most self-taught detailers or at least detailers that don't' hang out on a forum like AGO.

Head knowledge, or information is the most important tool a detailer can possess. Via my books and especially this forum there's decades of techniques shared to help you work faster, work better and work more efficiently.

All you have to do is invest time and focus.

[Shockvvave]

You are the best Mike! I mean that thank you. Hey Mike I'm in Mount Dora. Do you ever allow visitors to your shop? I would love to see it and meet you one day.

All the best,
Michael