New Car Technique

[DrRon]

I expect delivery on a 2013 Subaru Outback mid-July here in Denver.
The paint is a special new color, Brilliant Brown Pearl.
I want to take good care of it, as well as all the trim since I plan to keep the car for a long time. So here are my questions:

1. How long should I wait before using anything on the factory paint job?
2. When I do start working to protect the new paint, what should I use?
3. At our mile-high altitude I'm sure the UV effect is extreme. What works best to protect against that - special product or more frequent application?
4. For all the black trim, what techniques / product protects best?

I really appreciate the expertise here to help me take care of this very special new ride.

Thanks,
Ron

[BobbyG]

Hey Ron!

Factory paint is ready to handle virtually everything you can throw at it once it leaves the factory.

Follow some basic steps to ensure the factory paint remains like new for years to come. With periodic routine maintenance, your finish will look new year after year.
Basic steps in order are:

• Wash - Duragloss #901
• Clay - Meguiar’s Clay

Some great products that perform giving outstanding results try Duragloss 501, 601, and 105.

• Duragloss 501
• Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent
• Duragloss 105 TPP

Duragloss 501

Duragloss 501 is a great cleaner & sealant. It's does a nice job at removing minor swirls, like defects, and oxidation. I use this product with both Orange and White 5 1/2" flat pads on my Porter Cable 7424 and 6 1/2" CCS pads on my Flex 3401...

Use Duragloss 501 straight out of the bottle working each section until your satisfied with the finish condition. Let it haze, then buff, it's very easy to use.

Work this with both pads on speed 5 moving the polisher between 1/2" and 1" per second. This is not super critical but the move slowly enough to give the pad & product time enough to perform it's work?

Duragloss 601

Duragloss 601 is called a bonding agent and it really works. It's a product that bonds well and creates the perfect surface for Duragloss 105 sealant.

Apply this with a Blue foam pad on speed 3.

This product does not need buffing and after 15 minutes or so apply Duragloss 105 directly on top of it.

Duragloss 105

Duragloss 105 is a nice sealant that provides superior gloss and protects like crazy.

"Duragloss 105 is so durable that it resists both acidic and alkaline cleaners. When the labels of Duragloss’ Bug Remover and Water Spot Remover say they will not remove durable polishes, this is the durable polish they’re referring to. Duragloss 105 shields the paint through automatic car washes, acid rain and spot cleaners for up to a year."

Apply this with a Blue foam pad on speed 3.

Allow to haze which usually takes no more than 15 to 20 minutes and buff with clean microfiber towels to a gorgeous shine.

Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Trim - Ultima Tire and Trim Guard

[dougaross]

another approach - once you get the paint clean and de-swirled use opti-coat to keep your car looking like new for a long time

[BobbyG]

Another great tip Doug!!

[Detail-Impressions]

I do not question the above advice, I agree if a damaged car finish.

There is only so much clear coat paint on the car brand new, I would resist the argue to polish off any paint coatings. I would only start polishing as needed.

With a brand new car if the paint has no swirls, I would strong wash, clay, Iron x, then sealer or wax whichever you choose or both products.

[Blackthorn One]

As Bobby G said, factory paint is ready to polymer coat, wax, seal, or glaze, because it is baked on at the factory, fully cured.

another approach - once you get the paint clean and de-swirled use opti-coat to keep your car looking like new for a long time

I think that is an especially excellent idea on an off road vehicle. Good call.
Clean with Optimum Power Clean right before applying Opti-Coat 2.0.
Then you can use the wax of your choice as a topper, to enhance the look. I think that would be the most practical approach here.

Otherwise, you could apply a sealant like Wolfgang DGPS, wait 12-24 hours for it to cure, and then apply Wolfgang Fuzion wax. WG DGPS is very slick, and so is Fuzion, which also has an anti- static feature, and is absolutely gorgeous, with a clear, yet warm look, with a nice pop, that is a red colored wax that I think would look great on a brown metallic car. An orange or a yellow wax would look great as well, like Dodo Juice Orange Crush or Banana Armor.

Even if there are no swirls, I would be tempted to jewel the paint on a new car with Menzerna PO85RD and a gold pad before coating.

Formula 303 Aerospace protectant offers 100% UV protection for rubber, vinyl and plastic.

[oldmodman]

A good place to start is telling your dealer that there is to BE ABSOLUTELY NO PAINT PREP WORK DONE ON YOUR NEW CAR!

I always arrange to be at the dealer when the truck arrives with my new car. Last one I bought I was there when the protective sticky paper was removed from the car. And I went over every square inch looking for any dents, dings, or scratches. None found, so I went onto the paint flaw examination. Also good, so I had the car parked at the far end of the lot, went inside and finished the paperwork, drove the car into my enclosed car trailer and went home.
Totally satisfied that there were no dealer installed paint swirls, holograms, or even worse damage present.

[RaskyR1]

I do not question the above advice, I agree if a damaged car finish.

There is only so much clear coat paint on the car brand new, I would resist the argue to polish off any paint coatings. I would only start polishing as needed.

With a brand new car if the paint has no swirls, I would strong wash, clay, Iron x, then sealer or wax whichever you choose or both products.

You also need to keep in mind that claying will likely induce some amount of marring on most paints (especially Subaru IME) so a light polish is always recommended after doing so. Such a mild combination of polishing removes so little clear coat materiel that it would not even be detectable on a PTG. Furthermore, if the OP were to use Opti-coat on the paint he would be adding far more thickness then his removing while also increasing the UV protection.

[SR99]

Assuming it is built in an overseas factory you probably have a minimum of a few weeks between the paint application at the factory and when it finally arrives at the US dealer. There is final test and inspection at the factory, queue up enough cars for a container ship, ground transportation to the source port, the long ride on the container ship, unload at US port, port installed options, ground transportation from the US port to the US dealer, and various customs/paperwork process delays that might arise.

Still it can't hurt to ask a service manager at your dealership (not a salesperson) if there is anything special about the Subaru paint that you should wait some time before applying any coatings to it. Most likely they will say no, but it's easy enough to ask so you aren't guessing.

[Detail-Impressions]

You also need to keep in mind that claying will likely induce some amount of marring on most paints (especially Subaru IME) so a light polish is always recommended after doing so. Such a mild combination of polishing removes so little clear coat materiel that it would not even be detectable on a PTG. Furthermore, if the OP were to use Opti-coat on the paint he would be adding far more thickness then his removing while also increasing the UV protection.

Very good points that I did not consider , experienced valued advice please heed.