Do I need to use paint cleanser after polishing?

[Mike Phillips]

It's not redundant if it extends the durability of the lsp as in my example. Just my .02

sometimes I will use a paint cleaner even after polishing and doing a wipedown with Eraser.

I don't disagree with your procedure because I'm a big fan of finding products and procedures that work for you and then using them...


I thought the entire idea behind maximizing the durability of an LSP was to maximize the bonding of the protection ingredients to the surface of the paint?

So what I've seen people get all emotional over on this topic was stripping the paint of any polishing oils or lubricating agents or fillers so the surface is completely clean and free of any ingredient that would interfere with the bonding of the protection ingredients.

If that's the case, then wouldn't the polishing oils, or agents or lubricating oils in the P21S also have to be chemically stripped before application of the LSP?

Me personally, I don't like to make any process more complicated than it has to be and I explained thoroughly my take on this topic in my article,

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding

And that is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

[Flannigan]

I don't disagree with your procedure because I'm a big fan of finding products and procedures that work for you and then using them...


I thought the entire idea behind maximizing the durability of an LSP was to maximize the bonding of the protection ingredients to the surface of the paint?

So what I've seen people get all emotional over on this topic was stripping the paint of any polishing oils or lubricating agents or fillers so the surface is completely clean and free of any ingredient that would interfere with the bonding of the protection ingredients.

If that's the case, then wouldn't the polishing oils, or agents or lubricating oils in the P21S also have to be chemically stripped before application of the LSP?

Me personally, I don't like to make any process more complicated than it has to be and I explained thoroughly my take on this topic in my article,

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding

And that is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

When doing a wipedown prior to a paint cleaner, that is to check my work and make sure nothing was being filled, not to prep for the LSP. the cleaner will prep for the LSP. The way I look at it if Ultima designed UPPP to work with UPGP its ok to use without a wipedown in between. All I know if I always see customers with LSP still there far past the advertised durability of that product. The only reason I can see for that is my extra step.

[Mike Phillips]

The way I look at it if Ultima designed UPPP to work with UPGP its ok to use without a wipedown in between.

Exactly, and you make my point in my article,

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding

Here's an excerpt...

So unless a manufacturer specifically states or recommends that an automotive paint finish must be stripped clean for their wax or paint sealant to properly bond or adhere, then I think it's safe to say that the chemist behind the brand has created their wax and paint sealant formulas to use the same miscible oils, (or other miscible substances), in their surface prep products to aid in the bonding or adhering of the protection ingredients used in their waxes and/or paint sealants to paint.

This would be called, Synergistic Chemical Compatibility.

That's also in keeping with not making washing and waxing a car rocket science...

[2old2change]

All I know if I always see customers with LSP still there far past the advertised durability of that product. The only reason I can see for that is my extra step.

If any LSP didn't last beyond their advertised durability then it would no longer have a place in my arsenal.

[Flannigan]

If any LSP didn't last beyond their advertised durability then it would no longer have a place in my arsenal.

Um, what? Why wouldn't you want to get great durability out of an LSP for your customer?

[2old2change]

That really doesn't make much sense, at least to me...

Let me explain my post. If a Lsp producer finds their product has a life span of say six months then their ADVERTISED durability would most likely IMO would be in the 3-4 month range which leaves them some wiggle room as one might claim. For a example on a non detailing item when a product has a weight limit of 500 lbs , it is most likely the item has been tested to well over that limit to cover the producers a**. I think you will find the same with most consumer products including LSP's. You think your procedure is what is responsible for the longevity of your LSP application and you are entitled to your opinions as are others who think it is not always a necessary step.

[Flannigan]

Let me explain my post. If a Lsp producer finds their product has a life span of say six months then their ADVERTISED durability would most likely IMO would be in the 3-4 month range which leaves them some wiggle room as one might claim. For a example on a non detailing item when a product has a weight limit of 500 lbs , it is most likely the item has been tested to well over that limit to cover the producers a**. I think you will find the same with most consumer products including LSP's. You think your procedure is what is responsible for the longevity of your LSP application and you are entitled to your opinions as are others who think it is not always a necessary step.

You said if it outlasted it's advertised durability it wouldn't have a place in your arsenal, this didn't answer that question at all.

Also, it depends on how an LSP is cared for. If you take good care of your vehicle and it doesn't stay outside, and the surface was propperly prepped, it will surely last longer than advertised. If you just slap it on a car you washed and sit it outside 24/7 it won't.

[CASH XRS]

Ok, so I just want to make sure I understand this correctly.

If you DO clay, you should:
-Wash
-Dry
-Clay
-Compound (if necessary)
-Polish
-Wax (because a pre wax cleaner isn't necessary as the polish does that?)

And if you DON'T clay:
-Wash
-Dry
-Pre-wax cleaner (just purchased the Griot's)
-Wax

Is that correct? I just want to make sure I get it right lol. Also what is a simple polish by hand? Is SwirlX considered too much by hand? I prefer Meguiar's but whatever you guys can suggest as an easy to use Polish by hand would be awesome. Thanks!

[2old2change]

I do get great durability from my LSP on customers cars and don't prescribe to the therory of always doing a wipe-down. You are entitled to your opinion as well but I was offering mine in reference to the original posters question.In his case IMO it was not necessary.

[embolism]

Ok, so I just want to make sure I understand this correctly.

If you DO clay, you should:
-Wash
-Dry
-Clay
-Compound (if necessary)
-Polish
-Wax (because a pre wax cleaner isn't necessary as the polish does that?)

And if you DON'T clay:
-Wash
-Dry
-Pre-wax cleaner (just purchased the Griot's)
-Wax

Is that correct? I just want to make sure I get it right lol. Also what is a simple polish by hand? Is SwirlX considered too much by hand? I prefer Meguiar's but whatever you guys can suggest as an easy to use Polish by hand would be awesome. Thanks!

Has nothing to do with clay. Any time I take a machine to my paint, I make it a point to clay first. Your top sequence is correct. The bottom sequence should include claying as well imo.

Polishing by hand won't really clean your paint as well as by machine. If you have the GG6, then why are you wanting to polish by hand anyhow?