Frustrated with Iron Particles Mike..

[cobalt9123]

For some background, I did the Finish Kare Paint Decontamination system today. I work right near train tracks and there's a company right next to my work called olympic steel that mines for metal.

I had pretty bad iron particles embedded in my WHITE paint and they would not come out with a clay bar. I decided to do the FKPDS and was pretty impressed, however, it did not get rid of all of the particles. Here are some before and afters, I will be doing a full written review with some iPhone pictures on another day (Been working on this for 7 hours) :

Before

After

Before

After


As you can see, it did not get rid of all the particles. It did, however, get rid of a lot of them. My problem Mike, is the ones that are left over. I have a few spots on my car here and there with particles like these, but the absolute worst part is my rear bumper. Here is a shot of what I'm complaining about, this is after the Finish Kare Paint Decontamination, 8 Passes of the acid cleaner, and several clay-barrings with DP clay and ONR as lube:



This is really, really bothering me Mike, and I'm very frustrated. I don't know what to do about it. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to have the rear bumper repainted, not just because of this, but partially because of this (A part to the right of my license plate holder about 8"x10" has clear coat "shedding" which I have no clue how happened...I just know it shedded after I washed it. Also on the right side someone swiped me and I had it shabbily repaired so it may be best for me to have it resprayed. However, I am wondering if you can give me any advice on what to do. I am at a loss here, sand it? Compound it? See what happens? Or just get it resprayed? Thank you very much for any of your help and all you do

[Lasthope05]

There is a new product that is about to hit the US markets in the next couple of weeks. The product is called Iron cut by Aquartz. It is designed to safety and effectively remove ferrous metals from paint. You can order from the UK if you are in a rush though. So far it is looking very promising.

Highly effective, acid-free and pH balanced (6~7pH) car paint, wheels & glass cleaner (safe for all wheels including aluminum and alloys). This formulation is also effective and safe for use on all car surfaces and will not deteriorate clear coats. This preventative measure puts a stop to corrosion , Iron Cut contains unique chemical ingredients that effectively dissolves the sintered iron by forming a water soluble iron complex. No other method cleans paint and wheels as deeply as Iron Cut. The Iron Cut Paint and wheels Decontamination System was developed as a method of removing paint contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying !!. If you are familiar with detail clay, you know it is capable of removing above surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint. The Iron Cut is designed to remove what lies below the paint surface.
Airborne chemical compounds and ferrous particles - particles containing iron - actually penetrate the paint and create corrosive compounds that eat deep into the paint's sub-layers or paint’s pin-holes. This is a gradual process that often is not evident until it's too late. Claying or polishing only removes the particle, not its effects, which are continuing to spread beneath the surface.

During the use of your vehicle, brake dust and road grime become sintered to the surface of the car paint , rims and wheels due to the high temperature conditions they are normally exposed. Brake dust contains high levels of iron and once sintered to the rim, becomes extremely difficult to dissolve or remove without the use of harsh chemicals. Iron Cut opens up the paint's pores to release ferrous particles and to neutralize caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by removing the ferrous particles.

Here are some reviews of this new product.

AQuartz Iron Cut Review - Detailing World

Iron Filling Removal with Iron Cut (Video + Pictures) - Detailing World

Aquartz / Aquartz+ & Iron Cut - Detailing World

[cobalt9123]

Wow. Thank you so much. I believe I have seen that on Autopia before, people paying around $40 to have it shipped from UK. That would be so much simpler than doing an 8 hour process of washing-claying-washing-alkaline-washing-acid-washing.

Thank you very much! I will DEFINITELY be looking into that!

[Mike Phillips]

For some background, I did the Finish Kare Paint Decontamination system today. I work right near train tracks and there's a company right next to my work called olympic steel that mines for metal.

Solving the root cause of the problem is key...

If you undo the damage caused by metal particles and even if you have portions of the repainted, but continue to park where the problem is being caused, then you will continue to have the problem.

2 options are,

• Car cover
• Beater car to drive to work

This is really, really bothering me Mike, and I'm very frustrated. I don't know what to do about it. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to have the rear bumper repainted, not just because of this, but partially because of this (A part to the right of my license plate holder about 8"x10" has clear coat "shedding" which I have no clue how happened...I just know it shedded after I washed it.

Also on the right side someone swiped me and I had it shabbily repaired so it may be best for me to have it resprayed.

However, I am wondering if you can give me any advice on what to do. I am at a loss here, sand it? Compound it? See what happens? Or just get it resprayed?

Well compounding is easy enough to try and see if that helps...

For the shedding problem, if you mean the clear layer of paint is peeling off, then the only way to fix this is to have the area repainted...

[cobalt9123]

Solving the root cause of the problem is key...

If you undo the damage caused by metal particles and even if you have portions of the repainted, but continue to park where the problem is being caused, then you will continue to have the problem.

2 options are,

• Car cover
• Beater car to drive to work

Well compounding is easy enough to try and see if that helps...

For the shedding problem, if you mean the clear layer of paint is peeling off, then the only way to fix this is to have the area repainted...

I know, I thought that it was no big deal until I realized these really are a pain to get rid of! I will definitely have to drive my black cobalt to work every day.

The shedding problem is interesting, the story was, I let the car get really dirty ( a few weeks of non stop rain), I took it to the car wash to use the pressure washer to get the majority of the dirt off before washing and when I got to the rear bumper, the clear coat literally shedded off. I don't know if it was ALL the clear coat or just SOME of it. I do know that the paint is different (Flexible?) on plastic bumpers and is different from the rest of the car, or so I've heard. it is definitely an eye sore.

I will try compounding maybe and see how it works, thanks Mike!

[Lasthope05]

Wow. Thank you so much. I believe I have seen that on Autopia before, people paying around $40 to have it shipped from UK. That would be so much simpler than doing an 8 hour process of washing-claying-washing-alkaline-washing-acid-washing.

Thank you very much! I will DEFINITELY be looking into that!

If you read this page of this thread a member pre-ordered it from the only US distributor for $35 shipped. Which is really reasonable.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...a-today-3.html

[cobalt9123]

If you read this page of this thread a member pre-ordered it from the only US distributor for $35 shipped. Which is really reasonable.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...a-today-3.html

Thanks so much Lasthope! Your name really is ironic at this point!

[Lasthope05]

Haha. No problem man! The new Aquartz line up and products look are all showing some very good promise. The coating/sealant they have is remarkable. Its scratch resistant, acid resistant, and boast 2 years durability. Just watch some of the youtube videos on and you will be amazed. It seems like all the good stuff is developed and sold in the UK. First Gtechniq and now Aquartz.

[mtnbiker]

Hey Cobalt, I have the same terrible problem with my Silver Silverado, all along the bottom panels. A friend told me to use 2000 grit , compound and so on. I did this last year & it's returning. I have the problem terribly in the rear wheel wells for which I recently purchased the FKDS as you did. Havent had time to use it yet but, I'm thinking of coating the inside of my wheel wells with something black like an undercoating, or the Rhino liner etc: unless someone has other ideas. The black would match the front wheel well liners. As for the bottom panels, ??? I also cross 2 sets of tracks several times a day so no way around that.
Was the FK system a LOT of work? Looks it to me.

[mtnbiker]

WOW! The Iron Cut seems to good to be true! I mean, I can sit there & spray till all the particles are removes without rubbing my arms off. I'm gonna look into this.
Thanks