65 Mustang base/clear from 1987

[2black1s]

... I seem to recall getting rid of most of the marks via wet sanding (1000 on up to 3000 grit). There may have been a few of the perimeters still slightly present...

There's a really simple and likely reason that the defects appear to have been removed by sanding, only to re-appear after polishing.

If you take any one of the general defects that you see and break it down, what you really have is a multitude of microscopic defects clustered tightly enough together resulting in the general "larger" defect that is visible to your eyes. When you sanded the surface, the sand scratches and general haziness of the surface are enough to camouflage the micro defects. They are still there, its just that your eyes can't easily see them.

Now you move on to polish the surface. When the sand scratches and haziness from sanding are removed by polishing, the defects become more discernible to your eyes. Again, they were always there, you just couldn't see them in the sanded surface.

Another contributing factor is that when polishing and waxing, there are more than likely some polish and wax residues left behind that have penetrated the micro defects. As these residues dry out they will tend to turn to a whitish, chalky type substance within the micro defects, thus amplifying the appearance of the overall general blemished area.

Back to the suggestion of inspecting the flaws with a 10x (or higher) magnifier lens... That can either prove or disprove my ideas of what you are dealing with. Regardless, it will certainly give you a better understanding of the actual paint condition in the affected areas.

[65 Mustang]

Normally I would have washed the car really well between stages, but since it wasn't running was tucked in the back of the garage, I didn't. In the event any remaining residues did contribute to what I'm seeing, is there a preferred cleaner or cleaning method between stages?

I hit a spot on top of the rear quarter with the buffer and 600 Akrya, washed it really well with soap and water, and the car has been out in the bright sunshine for a few hours now. It wasn't a very bad spot, but so far so good. Time will tell.

[2black1s]

Normally I would have washed the car really well between stages, but since it wasn't running was tucked in the back of the garage, I didn't. In the event any remaining residues did contribute to what I'm seeing, is there a preferred cleaner or cleaning method between stages?

I hit a spot on top of the rear quarter with the buffer and 600 Akrya, washed it really well with soap and water, and the car has been out in the bright sunshine for a few hours now. It wasn't a very bad spot, but so far so good. Time will tell.

If the residues are causing the issue, I don't really know of any easy way to remove them. What I have done in the past when experiencing this is to saturate the areas with an oily protectant or silicone oil. The oils will penetrate, moisturize, and clarify the residues, thereby reducing their visual prominence.

This method won't last forever but its easy to repeat periodically as required.

[dgage]

Would Meguiar’s #7 glaze help moisturize and “fill” some of the pores 2black1s?

[2black1s]

Would Meguiar’s #7 glaze help moisturize and “fill” some of the pores 2black1s?

I'm not sure as its been years since I used #7, and even then, I only used it on new paint for its incredible shine and color enhancement properties. I never tried it for the situation discussed here.

While #7 does have a high oil content, I don't know how it would work in this situation. It might leave behind residues of its own in the subject defects. It's for that reason I think a crystal clear product will provide a better result, hence the suggestion of an "oily protectant" or "silicone oil".

That said, it is certainly reasonable to try #7. There's not any downside to trying it.

[65 Mustang]

I buffed the top surfaces again, then washed it really well. Better, but not like the first time (several spots need wet sanding). Then I used #7. Have not put in in the sun yet. Prior to waxing, is it recommended I wash it really well first, or skip it and wax on? I suspect either way the spots will reappear.

[2black1s]

Just wax it. No need to wash it (unless it has accumulated any dirt since the glaze application).

When you say several spots need wet sanding, I'd be very careful if you proceed down that path. If my assessment of the defects your dealing with is correct, wet sanding is not really an option... You'd have to sand all the way through the clear to remove them.

Did the #7 make any improvement?

[65 Mustang]

Yes, for removing swirls from the rotary. I'll wax it for this weekend. Car show Saturday I'd like to attend in it. If spots reappear I'll pick one and wet sand away. We'll see.

Thanks,
Robert

[2black1s]

Yes, for removing swirls from the rotary...

When asking how the #7 worked, I was referring to how well it worked to conceal the blemishes you are dealing with, not necessarily how well it concealed the buffer swirls. Concealing the appearance of buffer swirls is a primary characteristic of the #7 and I know it does that well.

Note the use of the word "concealed". That's what the #7 does... It does not remove buffer swirls. You would need to further polish by hand or DA to actually remove them.

The #7 is visually minimizing the appearance of the buffer swirls with its fillers. That is what it is designed to do. The buffer swirls will re-appear as the #7 degrades over time.

... If spots reappear I'll pick one and wet sand away. We'll see.

Your car, your choice, but I don't think wet sanding is your answer.

Granted, you are seeing the blemishes in-person and I'm trying to assess them over the internet. You have that advantage. But from what I can surmise from your pictures and descriptions, I don't think the risk/reward ratio associated with wet-sanding is in your favor. I'd be very careful.

[65 Mustang]

No, #7 did not help with the spots.

Wet sanding is the pits. I likely will only do a test spot.