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  1. #31
    Newbie Member johnnyO's Avatar
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    My research and spot testing phases are complete and now I'm off to the races! Here are the before and after photos of the left rear fender following the second overnight saturation of #7. There was minimal pigment removal at this stage compared with the first application and I've very pleased.

    The sensation when wiping down a saturated panel with terry cloth is strange compared to other detailing tasks. It's greasy, but wipes off with some resistance. Then flip the towel and buff to an even sheen. It's like massaging shoe polish into leather. I'm looking forward to another application to see if more pigment is removed. I doubt the color will get any deeper.

    Obviously I want to keep the primer show-through to a minimum. The Comet rubdown with a kitchen sponge was gentle and initially did not remove pigment because of the oils remaining from the Griot's product. Once some red showed in the suds, I knew to stop. On future panels, I'll go even easier on areas where the grey primer is already showing through. There are some areas of bare steel with zero surface rust and I'm anxious to see how the #7 is absorbed into the pores there.

    The small light patches near the fender bolt holes are remnants of tbe Rexine (impregnated cloth) welting that are stuck to the panel and I saw no reason to go after it.












    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    If the #20 is leaving an acceptable finish, then after all your #7 work, apply the #20, allow it to fully dry, wipe it off and then stick a fork in this project and call it done.

    Periodically, try just re-applying the #20 and if this restores the crisp look previously achieved then go with it. IF not - you're back to #7


    I truly think that most of the issues you're dealing with are (in no particular order),

    • Age of paint.
    • Quality of paint when new and now.
    • Frailty of paint.
    • Unstable pigments in what's left of the resin.



  2. #32
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    For 0 pigment/material removal, use Owartol Polytrol. It will restore, seal, and protect just about anything.

  3. #33
    Newbie Member johnnyO's Avatar
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    Quote Originally Posted by WristyManchego View Post
    For 0 pigment/material removal, use Owartol Polytrol. It will restore, seal, and protect just about anything.
    Sounds kind of like Penetrol, which I think may leave a surface film when dry. I'm already into the #7 procedure, but appreciate about learning something new.

  4. #34
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyO View Post
    Sounds kind of like Penetrol, which I think may leave a surface film when dry. I'm already into the #7 procedure, but appreciate about learning something new.
    Penetrol is a surface prep product, completely different to Polytrol.

  5. #35
    Newbie Member johnnyO's Avatar
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    Quote Originally Posted by WristyManchego View Post
    Penetrol is a surface prep product, completely different to Polytrol.
    OK, so no surface film. Perhaps more like Fluid Film or Gibbs Brand in that it is wiped off. I see rave reviews online about using on plastics and vinyls. but not so much on oxidized single stage paint. Can you refer me to any success stories. I'm always game for using a product "off label" as the drug companies call it, which is actually what the #7 overnight soak is.

  6. #36
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyO View Post
    OK, so no surface film. Perhaps more like Fluid Film or Gibbs Brand in that it is wiped off. I see rave reviews online about using on plastics and vinyls. but not so much on oxidized single stage paint. Can you refer me to any success stories. I'm always game for using a product "off label" as the drug companies call it, which is actually what the #7 overnight soak is.
    If youíre in the resto game, Iíd test it yourself to see how it works and if the finish is for you.

    Iím in the process of testing its polish-ability after curing on severely oxidised gelcoat.

  7. #37
    Newbie Member johnnyO's Avatar
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    Mike & Tom,

    Just when I'm making steady process... I took a panel outdoors and noticed some streaking that became more apparent after waxing. (Remember that on my car, the fenders, running boards, fuel tank and hood have been removed from the body tub for this project.) This photo shows an area about 6" across. My guess is that I need to do much better than the 90% removal guideline of the #7 and not rely on the hand applied sealant clearing up any residual loose pigment. I can kick myself for not noticing this earlier, but lighting and angle make all the difference.



    As I proceed, one option is to machine apply the #20 sealant, which I assume would correct any uneven #7 appearance. Would a spray detailer help locate ay missed areas?

    Another is to gorge all areas with #7 until 100% even saturation, which I see is Tom's preference.

    Quote Originally Posted by TMQ View Post
    JohnnyO...

    Keep it simple. Do the #7 often. As much as 6 - 8 times. (since yours is thin--rub gently. Wipe off gently, repeat 24 hours apart. Stop if megs #7 wipes off wet).
    Tom, when you say "wipes off wet", does that indicate saturation to the point there is no drag on the towel when removing a heavy layer of #7? After an hour or so of dry time?


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    My guess is - it's the solvents in any liquid or paste wax or synthetic sealant that are dulling down the results created by the #7.

    What this is showing you is how SENSITIVE the paint is when it is this OLD, fragile and also unstable.
    Mike, now that this panel is nicely sealed and waxed, I've just rubbed in a heavy coat of #7 but I question whether it will penetrate down to the pigment. Is it best to do a gentle Coment cleanse until I see some pigment coming off, then resume the #7 rubdown ? Or is there a spray prep that will effectively strip off the protection?

    Oh, I've been using a new kitchen sponge for the Comet rubdown. I'm thinking a folded terry towel about 8" square would do a better job. What's your preference?

    BTW, at the rate I'm going, it's going to take about 5-6 bottles of #7 to do the entire car.

  8. #38
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyO View Post

    My research and spot testing phases are complete and now I'm off to the races!

    Here are the before and after photos of the left rear fender following the second overnight saturation of #7.

    There was minimal pigment removal at this stage compared with the first application and I've very pleased.













    Looks GREAT!


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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  9. #39
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Controlling pigment removal using Mirror Glaze #7 - 1953 MG

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyO View Post

    Mike, now that this panel is nicely sealed and waxed, I've just rubbed in a heavy coat of #7 but I question whether it will penetrate down to the pigment.
    It will.



    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyO View Post

    Is it best to do a gentle Coment cleanse until I see some pigment coming off, then resume the #7 rubdown ? Or is there a spray prep that will effectively strip off the protection?
    Anyone doing the Comet Technique should do it once and call it good.


    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyO View Post

    Oh, I've been using a new kitchen sponge for the Comet rubdown. I'm thinking a folded terry towel about 8" square would do a better job. What's your preference?

    I'd use Terry Cloth.


    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyO View Post

    BTW, at the rate I'm going, it's going to take about 5-6 bottles of #7 to do the entire car.

    Next time anyone at Meguair's gets a pay check they can thank you and also me.


    Mike Phillips
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