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Black Audi S4
Good morning. I believe this is my first ask Mike Phillips question. I have a black S4 on Wed, i need to 2 step the car, what will be the most efficient way to cut, and finish out properly? I have a Beast and Finisher, also Have Boss G15/G21/G9. Most compounds/polishes/pads are the most popular choices. The paint isn’t too terrible, just mostly swirly. Thank you in advance
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Re: Black Audi S4
When you say 2-step - is this one dedicated paint correction step and then 1 dedicated step to seal the surface?
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Super Member
2019 Pearl White Accord 2.0T Touring (mine)
2023 Snowflake Pearl White CX-30 Turbo Premium Plus(wife)
2010 Urban Platinum Metallic CRV EX-L & 2014 Mica Black Metallic Toyota Corolla S (kids)
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Re: Black Audi S4
Thank you gentlemen. Mike I mean a compound, then polish. It is getting a 1 year coating after those 2 steps
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Re: Black Audi S4
Originally Posted by TTQ B4U
This is where I will begin my test spot. What pad/machine did you use to polish it? 3401?
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Super Member
Re: Black Audi S4
Originally Posted by Billy Baldone
This is where I will begin my test spot. What pad/machine did you use to polish it? 3401?
Flex 3401 with Wool initially then finished with an orange pad but also had the car for 3 years so at some point I did refine the polish with a white pad and Essence.
2019 Pearl White Accord 2.0T Touring (mine)
2023 Snowflake Pearl White CX-30 Turbo Premium Plus(wife)
2010 Urban Platinum Metallic CRV EX-L & 2014 Mica Black Metallic Toyota Corolla S (kids)
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Super Member
Re: Black Audi S4
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
First - freaking mirror finish on the black Audi - hats off to you.
Thank you sir.
GENERALLY SPEAKING - Audi is known for having very hard clearcoats.
Is this your experience with the S4 in the pictures?
Yes. VW/Audi has some pretty tough paint. I actually set expectation with customers that the amount of reduction in say a one step is far different on German vs Japanese, etc. My pricing is what it is but it centered around the amount of correction that a customer is looking to achieve. Thus if you own a German car and want 75%+ then you might want to go 2-step. If that makes sense.
2019 Pearl White Accord 2.0T Touring (mine)
2023 Snowflake Pearl White CX-30 Turbo Premium Plus(wife)
2010 Urban Platinum Metallic CRV EX-L & 2014 Mica Black Metallic Toyota Corolla S (kids)
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Re: Black Audi S4
Originally Posted by TTQ B4U
Yes. VW/Audi has some pretty tough paint.
This is my experience too except there's always an exception to the rule.
For everyone reading this into the future that thinks all Audi paint is hard, click the link below and read about the exception to the rule AND this is why it's so important to do a TEST SPOT to every car you detail if you've never worked on that specific car in the past.
And just to note, the below article was written in 2011, that's 9 years ago and the actual work I did on the Audi's was done in 2006 while I was at Meguiar's.
Audi Soft Paint - Making Generalizations about Hardness and Softness
Originally Posted by TTQ B4U
I actually set expectation with customers that the amount of reduction in say a one step is far different on German vs Japanese, etc. My pricing is what it is but it centered around the amount of correction that a customer is looking to achieve. Thus if you own a German car and want 75%+ then you might want to go 2-step. If that makes sense.
Makes complete sense.
The most important thing any detailer can do is "help" their customer, not just the part about making their car shiny but educating them about their car's paint. We all have to remember, the average person knows NOTHING about detailing or their car's paint. They just know what they want. Anytime a professional detailer (like yourself), educates their customer it has the effect to bring their expectations into the real world. That has a cumulative effect for all of us.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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Re: Black Audi S4
Originally Posted by Billy Baldone
Good morning. I believe this is my first ask Mike Phillips question. I have a black S4 on Wed, i need to 2 step the car,
Thank you for asking Billy, I truly appreciate you're wanting my opinion and below I'll share my best stab at a process.
Originally Posted by Billy Baldone
what will be the most efficient way to cut, and finish out properly?
I have a Beast and Finisher, also Have Boss G15/G21/G9.
Most compounds/polishes/pads are the most popular choices.
The paint isn’t too terrible, just mostly swirly.
Thank you in advance
Paint Correction - Compounding
TOOL
In my opinion, out of the tools listed - the FASTEST way to correct each panel, no matter what the shape or curve would of course be the 8mm gear-driven orbital polisher the BEAST.
Pad
For a pad and compound recommendation - I know a FIBER pad of some sort will always correct or REMOVE paint faster than a foam pad. The problem with using some or most fiber pads on gear-driven tools is the pads tend to grab the paint and yank to tool around and this in turn yanks you around.
I would test out any of the fiber pads you have in your arsenal that have a foam intercore or interface between the face of the pad and the velcro backing. This little bit of foam helps to smooth out the felt buffing experience.
If you cannot find a fiber pads that feels good enough when buffing and specifically anytime you change planes, that is move the pad over one plane to a new/different plane on a body panel, to allow you to buff out the entire car, then switch over to the most aggressive foam pad you have and go with it. With a great compound and 10 to 15 pounds of downward pressure, the BEAST will cut hard paint.
Compound
No doubt you have some great choices in your collection, so I'd test anything you have that offers great cut plus long working time and low to no dusting. Especially if using a fiber pads. When using fiber pads, products don't seem to stay as liquid on the surface as long when using foam pads.
Paint Correction - Polishing
Tool
If you find the paint is hard as we all assume, then you can easily finish out with the BEAST. After a heavy paint correction step all you're going to need to do is remove any micro-marring left by a fiber pad or any pad haze left by a foam cutting pad. If you want something less wieldy to finish out with then I would probably go with the G9 or if you still have one a GG6 or even Porter Cable. Short stroke will get the job done and you'll experience less pad stalling with short stroke versus long stroke thus the polishing step should be faster overall.
Pad
Heck any brand of foam "polishing" pad should clean-up any haze or marring after a heavy compounding step when used with a quality polish.
Polish
Back to paint hardness, if in fact the paint is hard, then my experience tells me you'll want and need to use a medium cut polish in order to work with a foam "polishing" pad to abrade the hard paint an shmoo it over. You could test a fine cut polish also - go with what looks best with your Test Spot.
Please let me know what you test and what you finally choose to use.
Already looking forward to the "after" pictures.
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