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  1. #11
    Super Member Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN's Avatar
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    If you get the quart of the BF One Step - it's like gettig a second 16 ounce bottle for 10 bucks.

    The best way to buy it is the 32 ounce bottle. This is why you never see me recommend the 16 ounce bottle. Plus once you use it once, the 32 ounce bottle won't last long, it's really good stuff.


    Up sell APPROVED! Revising cart now! Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed? Thanks Mike!

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app

  2. #12
    Super Member Rsurfer's Avatar
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    If you get the quart of the BF One Step - it's like gettig a second 16 ounce bottle for 10 bucks.

    The best way to buy it is the 32 ounce bottle. This is why you never see me recommend the 16 ounce bottle. Plus once you use it once, the 32 ounce bottle won't last long, it's really good stuff.





    Quote Originally Posted by Red&BlackJacob View Post
    Up sell APPROVED! Revising cart now! Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed? Thanks Mike!

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
    Coming from a Pro!!

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  4. #13
    Super Member Icarus's Avatar
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    It may come back but won't last. My '04 TJ had paint like chalk and would polish up decent but only last for a few months before going back to chalk.
    ·Ï¢årµ§·

  5. #14
    Super Member Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN's Avatar
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    I've seen oxidized clearcoats worse than that come back.

    It just depends upon the history of the car or more specifically - the history of the paint.

    Has it been chopped on by a caveman detailer all it's life or just neglected? This will in part determine how much paint is there or NOT there.

    You might get lucky but you'll never know what you can do until you try.

    I'd hit it with BLACKFIRE One Step, a foam cutting pad and the BEAST.


    Mike,

    I've purchased all Items and more mentioned in this thread. I even bought a forced rotation DA. I'm going with the Lake Country Force Hybrid 5.5 inch pads.

    My question is, should I hit the panel with the cutting pad and then refine with the polishing pad?

    Should I do a test spot with just the cutting pad and then a test spot with the cutting and polishing pad and see what results are best then go with that combination?

    Also I was thinking of adding an additional layer of protection with the 3D Cherry wax, a wax designed for darker colors. What are your thoughts on this? Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    I won't forget to count my section passes. Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app

  6. #15
    Super Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Red&BlackJacob View Post

    My question is, should I hit the panel with the cutting pad and then refine with the polishing pad?

    Should I do a test spot with just the cutting pad and then a test spot with the cutting and polishing pad and see what results are best then go with that combination?


    Always do a test spot with your least-aggressive combo. Then work up from there.

    You could start heavy and be satisfied with your work, but what if a lighter approach does the same thing? You would be removing more clear than necessary. Make sense?
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

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  8. #16
    Super Member Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN's Avatar
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulMys View Post
    Always do a test spot with your least-aggressive combo. Then work up from there.

    You could start heavy and be satisfied with your work, but what if a lighter approach does the same thing? You would be removing more clear than necessary. Make sense?
    Yes that's right. Totally legit answer man. "Use the least aggressive pad / product to get the job done", as I've heard Mike say. I was blinded by the severity of the panel to be worked on. Ha ha ha, I was thinking, "Let's bomb the crap out of it!" Ha ha ha now I won't forget. Thanks brother!

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  10. #17
    Super Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Red&BlackJacob View Post
    Yes that's right. Totally legit answer man. "Use the least aggressive pad / product to get the job done", as I've heard Mike say. I was blinded by the severity of the panel to be worked on. Ha ha ha, I was thinking, "Let's bomb the crap out of it!" Ha ha ha now I won't forget. Thanks brother!
    Chances are your instincts are correct. But why guess?
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

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  12. #18
    Super Member Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN's Avatar
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulMys View Post
    Chances are your instincts are correct. But why guess?
    Absolutely true!

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app

  13. #19
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN View Post

    Mike,

    I've purchased all Items and more mentioned in this thread. I even bought a forced rotation DA. I'm going with the Lake Country Force Hybrid 5.5 inch pads.

    My question is, should I hit the panel with the cutting pad and then refine with the polishing pad?

    Should I do a test spot with just the cutting pad and then a test spot with the cutting and polishing pad and see what results are best then go with that combination?
    Normally I practice and preach,

    Use the least aggressive process

    But from the appearance of the paint on this car and knowing the history




    I'd jump right to a compound and a cutting pad, even a FIBER cutting pad. If the fiber pads or even the foam cutting pad leaves any micro-marring or pad haze, you can always clean it up with a less aggressive foam pad and product.




    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN View Post

    Also I was thinking of adding an additional layer of protection with the 3D Cherry wax, a wax designed for darker colors. What are your thoughts on this?
    I'd say go for it. I'm a fan of topping, even wrote an article about it years ago. Actually back in 2011. In the article I share the "formula" I used to use back when I detailed full time AND before all the cool brands and products were invented that we use today.


    Topping - Definition - How to Top also called Topping

    An early car wash and detail shop


    An early auto repair shop that offers detailing





    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN View Post

    I won't forget to count my section passes. Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    I hope you find counting out your section passes when buffing out entire cars saves you time.



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  15. #20
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Looks like its past the point of no return or just severely oxidized? Can it be fixed?

    Also....


    If it's not too late - tape-off the hood like this and then buff out just one side.




    If you can save the paint, the before and after difference will be POWERFUL. Use this picture to market YOU and your business.


    If you can't save the paint, at least you tried. You never know what you can do until you try.

    Caution: Don't buff directly on the tape line.

    Also - cover the other half of the hood with an old beach towel so you don't get splatter on it. Just the act of wiping off splatter from severely neglected paint will improve it and ruin your "before" pictures.



    See these articles,

    The LINE ---> How to avoid the line!







    The power in the after shots is created in the before shots



    Before


    One half covered and taped-off


    Before and after results


    After







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