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  1. #1
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    Orange Peel remained after orange peel pad use

    Hi Mike,

    i am new here and saw some of the posts about the denim pads and similar products, to include successes and fails.

    i worked on my green 2013 Jeep Wrangler this afternoon with new Carpro orange peel pads and tried both Rupes “course” compound and Meguiars Ultimate Compound in an effort to remove orange peel. Hood looks better, as in clearer but wavy. Tried small section of driver door, but after 3 tries with Rupes and one with Meguiars and doing about 5 passes each time, I gave up believing I need something more invasive. By the way, I am using Meguiars older DA, the G2 I think it is.

    Paint is factory, so it’s never been repainted since I bought new. Should I try a more aggressive compound? The orange peel is pretty bad.

    thanks!

  2. #2
    Super Member Bruno Soares's Avatar
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    Re: Orange Peel remained after denim pad use

    Removing orange peel on factory paint can lead to disaster and require a re-spray. There’s very little clear coat to attempt leveling it and still expect it to last.

    I think you’d need a more aggressive compound if you chose to proceed anyways.
    Bruno Soares


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  4. #3
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    Re: Orange Peel remained after denim pad use

    Thanks Bruno. I realize there are risks doing this for sure. Guess that’s why I figured I’d ask for help before that big oops!

  5. #4
    Super Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: Orange Peel remained after orange peel pad use

    The factory orange peel is something you just have to live with unless you want to get a custom paint job.

    Imagine "hills and valleys"

    By the time you compound "grind" into the valleys, you have effectively removed all of the clear coat on the "hills" and have just ruined your paint.
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

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  7. #5
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    Re: Orange Peel remained after orange peel pad use

    Thanks Paul...yeah I understand the concept of hills and valleys. Just after seeing numerous cars online and in person that have had paint correction and then ceramic coating with the mirror like reflection is so awesome to me that I’d like to have that for my vehicles too.

  8. #6
    Super Member Dr Oldz's Avatar
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    Re: Orange Peel remained after orange peel pad use

    Those pads don’t work IME. You will need to wet sand if you want to truly remove orange peel. I suggest you just live with it. I don’t like shaving the already thin factory clear coat.

    Check out this video Mike and Yancy made.

    YouTube
    Jim

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  10. #7
    Super Member fly07sti's Avatar
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    Re: Orange Peel remained after orange peel pad use

    Totally agree with Jim/Dr Oldz. If you want your paint show car flat, you have to sand it. I have used the denim and velvet pads many times in the past, but feel they are more suited for blending orange peel/texture. And yes, I’d recommend a stronger compound. Something like Sonax Cut Max or Meg’s M101. And as others have said, I wouldn’t recommend it on factory paint.

  11. #8
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    Re: Orange Peel remained after orange peel pad use

    Yeah I don't have the skillset for the wetsanding...don't want to ruin anything

  12. #9
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Orange Peel remained after orange peel pad use

    This is a common topic when it comes removing orange peel without sanding.

    Years ago when the Denim pads were introduced, they were original recommend for use with ROTARY BUFFERS. I tested and proved they could be used with free spinning orbital polishers just to OPEN up the market for the pads and to give people a "hope" for trying without sanding.


    NOTE: In this I used Meguiar's M100 not because I thought it would be the best but because,

    A: I had it in front of me.
    B: It was BRAND NEW to the market so I though I would test it in this application. This was my first time using a denim pad and the date stamp for the below write-up is August 16th, 2013

    It was after doing this test that I theorized that a chunky compound would work better than a compound that feels like Jergens Hand Lotion, which is what M100 feels like an MOST of the compounds I use and Autogeek sells.

    How to remove Orange Peel using a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher






    Extreme Close-up

    And here's an extreme close-up shot I took in the close-up mode on my Canon T5i

    One thing I would like to point out and that is anytime you're buffing next to an actual strip of tape on paint, it's harder to remove as much paint right near the tape line as it is a few inches away, even so... you can really see a difference in surface texture in the before and after sections separated by here the tape-line wax.




    In this picture below - look at the edges of where you see the overhead light reflecting below the pink line - that's the before.






    After this project, (real-world detailing), and after I processed the pictures to document this project, (who else does this today and back then), I simply moved on.....


    Here's FULL PHOTO DOCUMENTATION showing before, during and after.



    1949 Chevy 5-Window Pickup Extreme Makeover - Pictures & Videos





    Frame-up the shot...




    Zoom in...





    AFTER










    For years now I've stated that my THEORY for making denim pads, basically a FLAT hard cloth work to only abrade or level the tops of the hills for the hills and valleys that make up orange peel, is using the right COMPOUND.

    I've stated my theory is and OLD SCHOOL compound, what we call ROCKS IN A BOTTLE would work better than all this new fancy, high-tech compounds that use GREAT abrasive technology that uses MICROSCOPIC grains instead of rocks.

    Note: My interest was never great enough, nor does my time allow me to experiment with old school or old technology compounds to find one that works and proves my theory. So I could be wrong but I'll leave it up to someone else to invest their time into finding out for two reasons.

    1: I know how to hand sand, machine sand, wet sand and dry sand.

    2: I'm the gut that tends to warn people to NOT sand factory paint because of how thin it is.


    See these two articles and they are topical for this topic.

    Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips

    Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint

    Wetsanding removes paint - Compounding removes paint - Polishing removes a little paint


    I admire your passion to perfect the factory paint and in an effort to help I'd recommend,

    A: Try to find some cheap compounds that have bad reputations for micro-marring and test these with the denim pad.

    B: Purchase the 3M Trizact #5000 Performance Sandpaper. Use a soft block like the Meguiar's E7200 and some soapy water and carefully and methodically knock down the high spots and then even more carefully, buff out your sanding marks.

    C: Cross your fingers that at some point you don't turn your buffing pad over and see the color of the basecoat on the pad.



    Here at Autogeek we don't carry a lot of sanding supplies because they are SLOW MOVERS. These items are usually expensive and they get a DUST BUILD-UP on them because they are slow movers. It's a normal practice to simply discontinue carrying things people (That's you folks reading this), don't buy from us. This is just how things work.


    Here is some info on this product by the maker.

    3M™ Trizact™ Performance Sandpaper





    Here's the link to the Meguair's E7200 band backing pad

    https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-sanding-pad.html



    And there's also now 3M Trizact #8000 grit but I was having trouble finding it in SHEETS of paper. Easy to find in sanding DISCS. I've never used this, might be so safe that it won't be effective? Plus the reality is, to knock down orange peel, hand sanding with a sanding block with a flat face works best.




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