I mean you have to look hard

[mbkite]

No swirl no micro maring car looks great from 1/2 foot to 10 feet away like a mirror..
but when you look real close there is light haze..
2 black Toyota 2018 is perfect clarity done with white LC pad and jeweling wax pinnical.
this 2020 black rav 4 I cannot make haze free
tried d166 BLACKFIRE 1step and jewling was LC Orange, white,Rupes yellow, and LC black.
their are no swirls and no micro maring just a faint haze.
new car no body shop
just a hobby guy and trying to up my game.
thanks..

[mbkite]

Tools tried gg6 Rupes 75e flex 3401;
Just test spots trying to dial it in..
Car is like glass so haven’t used any compound
Flakes are popping no real reason to go any farther
But want to up my game

[acuRAS82]

Probably really soft paint. LC (the type of pads I use) white is the strength you’d want to remove it so if that doesn’t work, I’ll defer to more experienced members. My only suggestion would be to finish off with no pressure or even negative pressure for the last couple passes (using jeweling wax over 1 step I guess). Not too high of speed but fast enough that it moves (3-4 on a gg6?).

LC black might be too light to help (I’ve never seen it remove anything), orange may be causing its own slight haze as it’s a bit more aggressive.

[Mike Phillips]

Switch over to a foam "finishing" pad and do a Test Spot.

See what I wrote here,

Original BASECOAT/CLEARCOAT paint - 1996 Porsche 993


After trying foam "polishing" pads - I had to switch to foam "finishing" pads to finish out wiithout micro-marring the paint because it was so soft.

[Mike Phillips]

Same thing here, paint was super soft...

Review: Wolfgang Concours-Series Microfiber Towels - 1988 Porsche 928 s4




Tools and products used for the paint correction

Sorry not pictures of me doing the work, I'm part machine and I move at machine speed. But here's what I used,

• BLACKFIRE One Step for removing all the swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation.
• RUPES cordless Nano in Long Neck version - I used this tool in rotary mode to correct thin panels and tight areas.
• FLEX cordless PiXiE for shmooing over any place I used the Nano in rotary mode - Shmooing is my term for removing holograms with a random orbital polisher.
• The FLEX Supa BEAST - 8mm gear-driven orbital polisher for major panels and to clean-up the thin panels and tight areas.
• Lake Country 6.5" Force Hybrid Foam Pads - Primarily used the soft black finishing pad but also used the white polishing pad for the worst areas of paint defects.
• FLEX 3.5" Green Foam Polishing Pad for the FLEX PiXiE
• RUPES 1" white foam finishing pad for the Nano - YES I used this to CORRECT paint - that's how soft the paint was.

[Mike Phillips]

No swirl no micro marring car looks great from 1/2 foot to 10 feet away like a mirror..

but when you look real close there is light haze..

The has is either micro-marring or possibly wax that has not been fully removed.


3 tips

First - for soft paint - stick with free spinning random orbital polishers. Gear-driven tend to be more aggressive in their action and on soft paint this can show up as micro-marring.


Second - Switch to clean, dry pads often - otherwise you end up grinding two things against the paint you're trying to perfect.

1. Spent product
2. Removed paint

Third - For you last 2-3 section passes - REDUCE downward pressure and you can even slow down the speed a little.

I know some guys preach the opposite - that is maintain full downward pressure to the paint throughout the buffing cycle. I think you can get away with this with hard paints but not soft paints.

Buffing like this (constant pressure), to me turns polishing paint into a GRINDING PROCESS.

I believe polishing paint is an Art Form - it requires the human elements of care and passion. Caring about what you're doing and a passion for perfection. And how this applies to buffing is we reduce downward pressure at the end of the cycle and start treating soft paints carefully.

[Mike Phillips]

And when all else fails.... there's the cheater technique...

After using the Jeweling Wax, top with a wax or sealant that dries. Then like I show in the towel review above, use stupid soft towels to remove the wax or sealant.