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  1. #11
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post

    Congratulations on the new paint job on the VINTAGE car. So now I'm curious.... what is the car?

    Picture?

    Picture? I'll see if I can figure that out.

    Thanks



  2. #12
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    STARTPaintCorrect.jpg

    Ceramic Coat what to do?-startpaintcorrect-jpg


    So this is the start. RF fender wet sanded and compounded but not polished.

  3. #13
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    Quote Originally Posted by arthur1920 View Post

    So this is the start. RF fender wet sanded and compounded but not polished.

    Wow! Now that's a fine automobile! I'm not an expert but I'll guess and early 1960s Jaguar?

    Here's your picture.....






  4. #14
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    it's a 1966, xke

    here's a new thought. I have to take the car back to painter to repair center panel of bonnet. Should I put spray SiO2 on it to protect it or should I use just simple wax like Colinite that will be easy to remove with a solvent wipe in case I get some marks on the other painted panels?

  5. #15
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    Quote Originally Posted by arthur1920 View Post

    it's a 1966, xke
    Nice.


    Quote Originally Posted by arthur1920 View Post

    here's a new thought. I have to take the car back to painter to repair center panel of bonnet.

    Should I put spray SiO2 on it to protect it or should I use just simple wax like Colinite that will be easy to remove with a solvent wipe in case I get some marks on the other painted panels?
    When are you going to have it back on the road?

    If it were me, I would do all the sanding and polishing but skip sealing the paint until all the paint work is done and she's ready for the road.

    Nothing is going to "attack" the paint like a bird dropping or water sprinkler drops if the car is inside all the time..

    I would not be in a hurry to seal the paint, wait until all the fresh paint work is done, then do the sealing work.

    She should look great after all the body shop safe polishing work.



  6. #16
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    Nice.




    When are you going to have it back on the road?

    If it were me, I would do all the sanding and polishing but skip sealing the paint until all the paint work is done and she's ready for the road.

    Nothing is going to "attack" the paint like a bird dropping or water sprinkler drops if the car is inside all the time..

    I would not be in a hurry to seal the paint, wait until all the fresh paint work is done, then do the sealing work.

    She should look great after all the body shop safe polishing work.


    My feeling is that I want to protect the paint that is not being redone to protect against any accidental brushing against or 'stuff happening" at the body shop. And also, from myself installing the next 2,000 parts that have to go on it.

    Also, I think it makes sense to seal the paint while I don't have the chrome or weatherstripping in the way.

  7. #17
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    PS:

    I did reply to your question about light cut pad and sanding scratches but, don't see it posted. I probably hit the wrong button.

    The answer is I sanded 1500 on some scratches, 2000 everywhere then 2500 then, 3000 Trizact foam. So except for those scratches that would not go away the light cut worked ok if I could get to the scratches. Sometimes I had to repeat the light pad work, and sometimes I had to go back to 3000, then light cut again. Scratches on edges or where the metal contour made a 5.5 in pad not touch them were tackled with a 3 inch Griot's orange pad on their little machine, and if that didn't get into it I used the 3 in pad on a finger tip velcro holder.....and if I still couldn't get to those visible but not fingernail scratches....I gave up. I have a couple of places I just couldn't perfect, or wasn't brave enough to go harder. Not too many.

  8. #18
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    Quote Originally Posted by arthur1920 View Post

    My feeling is that I want to protect the paint that is not being redone to protect against any accidental brushing against or 'stuff happening" at the body shop. And also, from myself installing the next 2,000 parts that have to go on it.

    Also, I think it makes sense to seal the paint while I don't have the chrome or weatherstripping in the way.
    Makes sense - so go for it.

    As for the area that's going to be repaint, no matter what you put on their, your painter is going to "prep" that and my guess that means sanding so whatever is applied will be sanded off.

    Tell him no matter what though he's in the loop. The paint sanded off will be "contaminants" in his shop but this is not new to any body shop painter.



  9. #19
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    Makes sense - so go for it.

    As for the area that's going to be repaint, no matter what you put on their, your painter is going to "prep" that and my guess that means sanding so whatever is applied will be sanded off.

    Tell him no matter what though he's in the loop. The paint sanded off will be "contaminants" in his shop but this is not new to any body shop painter.


    Right, not doing the center panel.

    So, which makes sense for the rest of the car?
    You're saying I will have to polish when I get the car back anyway? Or would the WG spray ceramic prevent contaminants from getting into the paint and just need to hit it with their cleaner?Ceramic Coat what to do?-needwaax1-jpgCeramic Coat what to do?-needwax2-jpg

    That's about as good as I can get it.

  10. #20
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Ceramic Coat what to do?

    Quote Originally Posted by arthur1920 View Post


    So, which makes sense for the rest of the car?

    You're saying I will have to polish when I get the car back anyway?
    My experience in the world is no one is ever as careful with my car as I am. I think this holds true for everyone else and their car too. If your car is at any shop for more than a couple of day, there is always the risk it's going to see "something". Maybe someone wipes some dust off a fender? That's going to scratch it.

    So yeah, if it were me? Go ahead and do your sanding and buffing, get the car as perfect as you can, then send her back to the body shop. Make sure your painter and all his staff understand how much work you have into the reuslts thus far and then cross your fingers.

    When you get the car back, visually inspect the car for any marring

    Marring = the kind fluffy way to say scratching

    And also do the Baggie Test. And read my article here,


    The most common place to get overspray on your car is a body shop by Mike Phillips





    Quote Originally Posted by arthur1920 View Post


    Or would the WG spray ceramic prevent contaminants from getting into the paint and just need to hit it with their cleaner?

    I think the Wolfgang Uber Spray Si02 Ceramic Coating will do as good of a job as any quality ceramic coating to make the surface slipper and thus less prone to marring but I don't believe ANY brand of ANYTHING can 100% prevent marring when a car is at any kind of shop with multiple employees working i and around the car. It's just the nature of the beast.


    If it were me, I would expect to have to clay the entire car after it comes back from the painter. And my rule is, if I'm going to use clay or a clay substitute on car paint I'm already planning on doing at least one machine polishing step.

    So if it were me, I would do all the sanding, compounding and polishing, but I would STOP after the polishing step and wait to go further until the car comes back from the body shop. Then inspect, clay if you have to, re-polish the entire car, the chemically strip and the coat.


    Do it once the right way and save yourself from anger and frustration when you get the car back only to discover marring here and there and overpsray or dry spray all over the paint you already perfected.




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