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  1. #1
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    Meguiars #7 on 38yo clear coat paint

    I’ve got a 1982 Mercedes 300CD with original metallic blue clear coat paint. It looks really good overall, but there are some minor swirls on the hood. There are also a few dull spots in the paint.

    I washed the car today, then dried it (air dried by driving) and parked it. Under very certain angles, I could see a dull spot.

    Meguiars #7 on 38yo clear coat paint-lewuji6l-jpg

    There’s a lot reflecting in that photo, but it’s a ~6” circle near the metal crease upwards.

    I have some #7 for an original single stage painted car of about the same age. For kicks, I applied some on the spot, heavy, then wiped it up. I was pretty impressed:

    Meguiars #7 on 38yo clear coat paint-zobnv44l-jpg

    I tried another spot, and you can see how it spreads:

    Meguiars #7 on 38yo clear coat paint-7cpzncdl-jpg

    So, I’m pleased, or at least optimistically skeptical.

    My question is:

    my take away from the big articles on #7 is that it’s really there to nourish single stage paint, and it won’t do much for clear coat paint. But I am seeing something here. Is it temporary? Not absorbing in?

    Given that it looks good, is it worth using on the whole car, then topped with something? Or since it’s on clear, will it just prevent bonding of a wax or sealant, and in the end do more harm than good on old clear?

    Meguiars #7 on 38yo clear coat paint-n5gztgxl-jpg
    thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member dcjredline's Avatar
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    Re: Meguiars #7 on 38yo clear coat paint

    I think it might be just filling. Couldnt really see in the pics myself. Sorry
    "Dirt likes detergent so much better than the surface that it's attached to, it'll leave that surface to go hang out with the soap"...aim4squirrels

  3. #3
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Meguiars #7 on 38yo clear coat paint

    Quote Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post


    My question is:

    my take away from the big articles on #7 is that it’s really there to nourish single stage paint, and it won’t do much for clear coat paint. But I am seeing something here. Is it temporary? Not absorbing in?

    Given that it looks good, is it worth using on the whole car, then topped with something? Or since it’s on clear, will it just prevent bonding of a wax or sealant, and in the end do more harm than good on old clear?

    ONE of the benefits of using,

    The #7 Rub Down Technique by Mike Phillips


    Is the TS Oils bring out the full richness of color in the pigments, that is if the paint is not UNSTABLE - see my article here,

    Paint Condition Category #9 Unstable


    Because you're working on an antique clearcoat, there's no pigments to affect. That said, the paint has become old and brittle and rubbing it down with #7 cannot possibly hurt.

    Also - a NEW car with a new clearcoat is very non-porous, or impermeable. As any paint ages it becomes more open via interstices, which is microscopic cracking in the surface due to drying out but also repeated expansion and contraction.

    So if it looks like it's helping, go for it.


    THEN machine polish the paint with something very safe like the BLACKFIRE One Step.

    The dull spots are simply oxidation. Machine polishing will remove a little top layer of dead paint and reveal a clear base so the entire finish will have a uniform appearance.

    Don't use crap for abrasive technology, it will destroy this paint. The best deal on the BLACKFIRE One Step is to purchase it in the quart size bottle. Once you use it once, you'll love it and use it on anything and everything.




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