Light marks/scratches on clear coat - what to use

[ToddA]

I have scattered areas of light marks on a maroon SUV that looks like it was wiped down with a towel that had something on it leaving a few very light scratches in the clear coat. I really don't want to do a full cut on it as it's a fairly new vehicle and its only small spots. Is there a mild polish that can done by hand on these spots?
Thanks

[2black1s]

Yes.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and/or Meguiar's Ultimate Polish are good products for the situation you describe.

The performance of either of these products can be fine-tuned by different applicators, i.e., microfiber, foam, cotton terry, etc.

I like to use a microfiber towel for hand polishing. Start with a firm pressure and lighten it as you go.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Todd,

I approved your account this morning along with a host of other new members....

If you recently joined the forum - all pending account approved - spammers removed
Welcome to AutogeekOnline!

I have scattered areas of light marks on a maroon SUV that looks like it was wiped down with a towel that had something on it leaving a few very light scratches in the clear coat.

Sorry to hear this. In my opinion, this is the most important or most valuable how-to article I've ever written.

How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars

I really don't want to do a full cut on it as it's a fairly new vehicle and its only small spots.

Is there a mild polish that can done by hand on these spots?

Thanks

I'll second Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish for working by hand. I was at Meguairs' when UC was introduced, it's the cousin of M105. This in my experience is the first compound introduced to the car detailing world that actually "worked" by hand.

When I use the word "worked" what I mean is, using good technique you could hand apply this compound and remove defects without leaving any defects behind. Before this product, most if not all compound could certainly remove defects but their abrasive technology wasn't as good as it is today and it would leave it's own marks or marring behind.


I would also say that in my experience, it's a LOT more difficult to work by hand than it is to work by machine when the machine is any brand of dual action random orbital polisher.

Clearcoats tend to be hard and the ability to rub a compound hard enough against this type of paint to level it while at the same time not leaving any marring is a real skill.

If you go this route, experience in one place first and make sure you're happy with the results before tackling other areas.

[Mike Phillips]

I've shared some tips in this old article from 2010


How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand

• Always work clean

• Use a clean, soft foam applicator pad, I really like these,
  
  CCS Red Wax/Sealant Applicator Pads 2 Pack
  
  Because they are fairly thick so the spread out the pressure of your fingers better than thinner versions.
  
  (I like thinner versions for applying finishing waxes and sealants because then I'm not pushing hard so don't need the thickness).

• Work on a cool surface in the shade

• Work a small area at a time, about 8" to 10" squarish or so...

• Use an "ample" amount of product, don't under-use and don't overuse to the point that you hyper-lubricate the surface but use enough to keep the surface lubricated throughout the process. I would use a teaspoon to a tablespoon of product, usually a tablespoon's amount to start with because your pad is dry when you start and some of the product is going to go into the pad, and after breaking in your pad then cut down to about a teaspoon's amount of product.

• Hold your hand flat to the pad, not vertical, the idea is to not put pressure ONLY on your fingertips but over the face of your fingers to avoid Fingermarks

• Spread the product out over the area you're going to work

• Work the product for about a minute, don't work till the product is dry, but it should go from an opaque film to a clear film

• Wipe off before residue dries

• When you move on to a new area overlap a little into the previous area

Before going over an entire panel or an entire car, first do a "Test Spot" and make sure you're getting the results you want and hope for. If you can't make one small area look good with your choice of product, pad and "your technique" then you'll be glad you only worked on a small section to start with or to test and not went over the entire panel or car.

When working on clear coats by hand to actually "remove" defects, technique is just as important as your choice of product and pad, (pad = application material).

So do a Test Spot first.

Also, read the manufactures directions and follow them as the above is just a general guideline. The manufacture always knows their products best.

[Mike Phillips]

More....


I'd recommend starting with a simple foam applicator pad, they simple kind you get with most waxes.


If you find the foam and your product of choice isn't working, then consider a microfiber applicator pad as the fibers are a gentle form of abrasive and will give your product more abrading ability. The fibers however, can also leave marring if the paint is soft. If this happens, the re-polish using the foam.

Fibers = individual strands

Foam = uniform surface texture


Polishing paint is an art form.

[ToddA]

Thanks. I assume Ultimate is also good with orbital polishers as well? I use mine on my white truck which is super forgiving but I'm trying to be as conservative as possible on the Mrs. car because of it being a very glossy maroon.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks.

I assume Ultimate is also good with orbital polishers as well?

Yes - very safe. Any product in the Meguiar's "Consumer Line" is bubba-proofed.



Meguiar's Ultimate Compound History


Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and SwirlX