-
Re: Using too much (wasting?) swirl remover product?
Originally Posted by
MarkD51
To add, not saying Mike Phillip's method that he demonstrates of priming a Pad is wrong.
I never prime pads. I use to but in the BIG PICTURE - when using foam pads it's really not an issue. I show how to prime a foam pad in my class and make a joke about it and then show them the Jason Rose/Mike Phillips method, which is basically put some product on the pad, smoosh the face of the pad around on the paint then turn the buffer on and start buffing.
The pad priming thing in my opinioin is really only important when using microfiber pads and I rarely use microfiber pads, acutally I never use them. Fibers are a form of abrasives. They cut the paint. This is why unless the paint is hard, microfiber pads remove defects and then put their own defects back into the paint.
If I need to cut hard to remove DEEP paint defects, or maybe the paint is simply HARD and I need to cut hard to remove shallow paint defects, then I use a foam cutting pad like the 6.5" Lake Country Force Hybrid pads on the BEAST and get in and get it over with.
If that still isn't remove the defects, then I stop and re-evaluate.
Is this a show car?
Is this a daily driver?
What is the customer's expectations?
What detailing package did I sell them?
In most cases, if an aggressive foam pad with an aggressive compound on the BEAST isn't removing the defects then unless it's a show car and the expectations are SUPER HIGH - then I don't need to be removing whatever this combo is not removing and thus I don't need a microfiber pad on any tool.
I do understand that some people don't use the BEAST and thus to make up for a weaker tool they must use a more aggressive pad, thus the need for microfiber pads. I get it. I guess my skill and knowledge level plus my tool preference means I simply don't need microfiber pads.
If I DID use microfiber pads I probably would prime the pads, that is rub the product all over the individual fibers when starting out with a fresh pad and then after that, clean and blow out the fibers and then simply re-apply more product or switch out pads.
Anyone that's attended any of my classes knows how I prime a pad and that's actually a LOT of people just this year and over all the years I've been teaching classes.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-
Re: Using too much (wasting?) swirl remover product?
Originally Posted by
MilesTeg
PC 7424x and 6.5in lake country CCS (all from autogeek).
Not only are those pads too thick for any free spinning random orbital polisher, (well maybe not the new G9), they are too large of diameter for the Porter Cable.
It used to be the Porter Cable was the only game in town for a random orbital polisher. I can dig up articles I've written that explain the history of this tool and the evolution of where we're at now or if you're interested use Google and my name and a few key words and you can probably find them yourself.
But compared to the GG6 and now the G9, the Porter Cable is one of the weakest tools in this category, (category = short stroke free spinning random orbital polishers), and the ONLY way to maximize the power it does provide is to use THIN pads, be they foam or microfiber.
And here's the deal, THIN pads will absorb a LOT LESS product than THICK pads and this is where some of your product waste is going.
I think 8 ounces is perfectly fine for doing correction work and recently I shared I used 8 ounces of compound to remove the swirls and scratches out of a Maserati. The 8 ounce bottle was near empty when I was done.
Moving forward, get yourself some Griot's Garage 5.5" BOSS pads, they are thin and they have hole in the center which helps to dissipate the enemy of all pads and that's heat.
You also need to get a 5" backing plate to turn, churn and burn the 5.5" pads.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes, 0 Dislikes
-
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes, 0 Dislikes
Bookmarks