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  1. #1
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    Intro and questions.

    Hi, I'm a lurker. I have been drowning myself with all the great information here. I am thankful to have found such a great resource. I will try my best to keep this to the point:
    I have a 2019 Chevy 2500 that is black. I live in the Northeast, near the ocean, and I also have pine trees where I park.

    I drove it about a month before putting any products on ( washing aside).I noticed the paint starting to collect some crap. Pine sap, and dog drool mostly. I have applied Zymol cleaner wax twice. It works well for what it is, but I need to get ready for the winter. It lives outside and is a DD which I use for work.

    I would like to strip this thing down, get all the crap out of the paint, and seal it with something that lasts. I'm thinking either the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant or Collinite 845.
    My biggest fear/challenge is deciding which products to use before sealing. There is pine sap, light etching from dog drool, light swirling and the typical fallout and road grime on the paint, along with whatever is left of the zymol cleaner wax.
    I'm not afraid of using an orbital, I have used them on my boats in the past with Finesse it and collinite. That said, this is a different animal in a new black chevy which I have read can be a bear to get looking good and keep looking good.
    So please throw it out there: which products will get this newbie back to a contaminant free, glossy black sealed paint that will handle a tough Northeast wintah. The wolfgang stuff seems to be popular here, but I want what is best to correct the current condition of the paint as well as the end goal of glossiness and durability.
    I will be doing this outside, as I have no garage. That may factor in to my choices?
    Thanks in advance
    Edit: Whatever I use, I will be buying it here FYI. I'm not asking for help and buying the stuff elsewhere.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Rsurfer's Avatar
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    Sounds like you need a tougher LSP like a coating. If you don't want to go the full blown coating route, you can try Car Pros CQuartz Lite (up to six months). Very user friendly. 150 mls. which will do you truck several times.

  3. #3
    Senior Member acuRAS82's Avatar
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    I think WGDGPS should do fine. Collinite would too, maybe even 476. As for Wolfgang, UncleDavy from Taunton, MA got through a Mass. wintah with it. Worst case you may want to reapply as late in the year as you can or get a spray wax that you can use if you’re ever able to clean in the winter.. otherwise it will come in handy to reinforce protection when the first warm days of spring come. If you are able to do any protection touchups in the winter (think touchless coin op or Rinseless wash), reinforcing the bottom side panels and the
    tailgate is most important, salt eats these away the fastest.
    For the tar and junk, there is Tar remover, Bug remover and even some cheaper APCs that I will stand aside and let others suggest what would work best for your situation.

    Of course if you’ve lurked you know we will suggest polishing and claying. Clay will help remove remaining tar, polishing will hopefully correct the etching of dog drool.

    You can also go Iron Remover but that’s a lower priority than what is mentioned above.

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  5. #4
    Senior Member MarkD51's Avatar
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    Hi, and welcome to the forum.

    I gather at this point you do not have a D/A Polishing machine yet?

    The toughest thing you'll have to deal with to get back to a clean smooth surface, is no doubt the Pine Sap.
    This can be a bear to remove, and of course none of us here know just how bad it is?

    You might be able to get away with a heavy duty Cleaner Wax-Sealant product, such as Duragloss #501 Marine-RV Cleaner Wax. It is very inexpensive, and has very good chemical cutting and cleaning abilities. Also is a nice protectant too.

    But not sure if it will hold up against the likes of either Collinite #845, or better yet, Collinite's most durable product, #476 Super Doublecoat Detergent Proof Wax (Actually, the two Collinite products I mention are both Hybrids, both a wax and sealant)

    Even Claying can have a hard time with some Saps. I'd start at the gentlest process and products to try to rid the paint of such nasties.

    We folks here all basically know of a simple test, called the "Plastic Baggie Test". After a wash, take a thin Plastic Sandwich Bag, place your hand within it, and then feel the surfaces of your Truck. The Paint, the Glass, Trim, Chrome. This will enhance the feel much greater than with only the bare hand.

    If you feel lots of bumps, like almost a sandpapery feel, then you know you got some work to do before applying any sealant, wax, etc.

    There are over the counter products also sold here, such as Stoner's Tarminator, which might help you with the Sap. Others might mention an alcohol-water dilution mix and Microfiber Towels to remove Saps. I'd rather personally try something like Duragloss #501 first. Do the least amount of work, aggressiveness, and harm as a theme and guidline to desired results.

    Trim protectants, one good one is Wolfgang's Exterior Trim Sealant. (WETS we call it here) No, it's not a cheap product, but a very good product and worth the money spent. A little goes a very long way, and is great for Exterior Plastic Trim, and Rubber.

    Tire Dressings such as Optimum Opti-Bond, and Ultima are very good. Opti-Bond is Water Based, dries to the touch, and offers good protection. Some of the Duragloss products are very good bang for the dollar as well short of a more durable Tire Coating.

    For a period of time, and providing you can get some good protection laid down, the worry about immediately rushing out to buy a Polisher, the Pads, Polishes can be delayed for a certain amount of time. Protection is more important for the paint, and trim parts, either short or long term.

    Then when you're ready to buy such tools needed, the paint will still be in very good shape for you to then do paint correction to get that last bit of high gloss, and to eliminate minor swirling and scratches.

    You'll have to let us know how far you're willing to go with detailing, and if you are then willing to invest the money needed for such tools and products required.

    No you don't need the top of the line Flex, or Rupes Polishers $$$$ to correct your paint. The two Machines such as the Griots GG6, and the Porter Cable 7424XP are both very good Machines, and will get the job done just fine.

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  7. #5
    Senior Member Kamakaz1961's Avatar
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    Hi and welcome to AGO! You will get many helpful answers here. Have a great day! My only suggestion is if and when you do decide to detail your ride, you should do it at dusk or dawn...IMO
    CJ
    2013 Mustang GT w/Track Pack 6-Speed Manual
    Save the Manual!

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  9. #6
    Senior Member MarkD51's Avatar
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kamakaz1961 View Post
    Hi and welcome to AGO! You will get many helpful answers here. Have a great day! My only suggestion is if and when you do decide to detail your ride, you should do it at dusk or dawn...IMO
    Are you hoping he then meets "Santanico Pandemonium"?!

    Please, wish stuff like that on me! JHC! LOL

    YouTube

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  11. #7
    Senior Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkD51 View Post
    Are you hoping he then meets "Santanico Pandemonium"?!

    Please, wish stuff like that on me! JHC! LOL

    YouTube
    I don't even need to click the link, Mark.

    one of the BEST scenes EVER!!!
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

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  13. #8
    Senior Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by acuRAS82 View Post
    I think WGDGPS should do fine. Collinite would too, maybe even 476. As for Wolfgang, UncleDavy from Taunton, MA got through a Mass. wintah with it. Worst case you may want to reapply as late in the year as you can or get a spray wax that you can use if you’re ever able to clean in the winter.. otherwise it will come in handy to reinforce protection when the first warm days of spring come. If you are able to do any protection touchups in the winter (think touchless coin op or Rinseless wash), reinforcing the bottom side panels and the
    tailgate is most important, salt eats these away the fastest.
    .
    I have had full winter protection from 476s here in salt-air LI NY. It is a really tough product.

    Agreed on the lower panels and tailgate, But I will also add to go crazy with a product like Fluid-film behind the bumper and under the bed and wheel wells of a pick-up.
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

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  15. #9
    Senior Member 2black1s's Avatar
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    This forum is a great resource of knowledge that can be of great benefit, but can also be near crippling in the sense that you'll get so many different opinions and suggestions. You need to sort through everything you read and decide what makes sense for you, otherwise you may become paralyzed by indecision and sensory overload.

    How many different products are available here at AutoGeek? That's about how many different suggestions you might get. Ok, maybe that's a little hyperbole but you get my point. And then in addition to the multitude of capable products to choose from, there are processes to consider; again with multiple suggestions and variations on “how to” and also dependent on your skillset.

    That said, here is my suggested starting point…

    First, define your process. What steps do you want to do and how are you going to accomplish them with the facilities, materials, equipment and skills you have available. Here’s a sample 30,000 ft. process as an example:

    - Wash
    - Chemical decon (i.e., Iron X)
    - Mechanical decon (i.e., claybar)
    - Paint correction (i.e., compound, polish)
    - Paint protection (i.e., wax, sealant, coating)

    Next, select the products needed to perform the process you’ve defined. I suggest keeping this step as simple as possible by picking a product line that you’ll feel good about and use their product(s) for each step of your process where you can.

    Finally, once you complete your project you can assess your satisfaction with the products and processes you used. If you are completely satisfied – great! If not, adjust your product/process as necessary next time around.

    As for the protection afforded by whatever LSP you choose, I tend to disregard any claims of longevity. My experience over the years is that if you want that “just waxed” look and feel, you’re going to be doing it quite often. Much more often than any of the 3 month, 6 month, 1 year claims. At least that’s my experience with waxes and sealants. Coatings may be a different story but I have no experience, nor immediate desire, with them.

    Now for your particular vehicle, I have one very similar, a 2015 Chevy Colorado… Black! Here’s the products I have used for polishing and protecting and you’d be hard pressed to find a black Chevy with factory paint that looks much better by any significant margin:

    - Meguiar’s M105 Ultra-Cut Compound
    - Meguiar’s M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
    - Meguiar’s 21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0

    I’ve also used Meguiar’s Cleaner Wax (OTC in the maroon bottle) when I didn’t feel like doing the multi-step process and it looks surprisingly nice.

    Good Luck with whatever products/processes you choose.

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  17. #10
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    Re: Intro and questions.

    Thank you all.
    I will be getting a D/A, I'm a bit of a tool #####. The pine sap is brutal in one spot on the roof. It's a big wad and I have tried goo gone and my fingernail a few times. it is slowly coming off, but there must be something better.
    Also for future reference:
    What are the consequences of claying and immediately applying a sealer or wax? Does the lubricant (spray detailer) from claying affect the bond of whatever LSP is used?

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