Black Mold everywhere! Help!

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Frankie,

Apologies for the delay in getting to your thread. You posted this on Sunday, May 5th and I was 3 days into my 3-day class and then on Monday, May 6th I conducted IDA Skills Validation Testing and then lucky for me my boss gives me the next day off.

It's a TON of leg work, lots of walking lots of talking to teach a 3-day class that covers as many tools and topics like I cover in my classes. So getting a day off after taking care of all the companies and my responsibilities is greatly appreciated. It's a chance to decompress, rest and recharge my batteries.


Hands-on!

[Mike Phillips]

I would consider myself an expert in a lot of areas related to car detailing but mold removal is not one of these areas. Like others have mentioned, not only is it a very difficult process it can also be dangerous to your health and the health of others around you.


My very good friend Parker Richards, however is considered an expert by many including myself. I met Parker when he attended one of my boat detailing classes a few years ago. I taught him exterior boat detailing and then he went on to switch from car detailing to almost all boat detailing and this led him down the path to learn the art and craft of Mold Remediation in the marine industry. I'm going to share some information he has shared with me on products and techniques to remove mold correctly and safely. Then outside of this I would recommend contacting him directly or find a professional in your area with this kind of expertise that offers this type of service and then simply let a pro tackle it for you.



First - a recent e-mail sent to me by a person that works in the automotive paint industry.



Mike,

Good morning.

I would like to reintroduce myself. You and I have met a couple of times at MTE and other events. I enjoy your newsletters and other industry content. I do have a question regarding cleaning interiors on vehicles that have not been stored in climate controlled environments.

I am specifically needing information on how to permanently remove mold / mildew that grows on the interior panels especially the areas that come in contact with our skin / hands...

I also want to remove the smell associated with the mold / mildew. That said, I will have to assume that if the mold / mildew is removed the smell will also be removed.

In the past I have always used a light concentration 10% (10-1 water to bleach) solution. However, I am not sure that this is the best solution.

I have also heard vinegar is an effective cleaner also, but I have never used it.

Any suggestions you have are welcomed.

I look forward to your answer.

Thanks,

Steve



Here's how I answered him - not I let him know I'm not an expert in this topic just like I let you know this same thing,


Hi Steve,

Thank you for reaching out to me with you question about mold removal. I'm sorry to say this is not my area of expertise. I am knowledgeable about a lot of topics as they relate to car and boat detailing but this is a science unto itself. There are a lot of products on the market that are sold to remedy mold and mildew issues inside cars but they all require specialized knowledge to know which products to use and then how to correctly use them.

My good friend Parker Richards is very knowledgeable about mold removal in boat interiors and I'm pretty sure the information he could share would or could apply to car interiors.

I've copied him in this e-mail.





And here's Parker's reply....


Steve,

Could you send any and all photos showing the mold and mildew ? There are several products that can be purchased at Interlink supply to solve your issue.

Benefect Decon 30 , which is a natural botanical made from thyme seed oil and is not a chemical, and is also food grade safe disinfectant.

Serum CU will most likely be your best bet, which is a peroxide based cleaner , but is very strong and PPE must be used when using this product.

I would remove all mold and mildew that has any texture , use a plastic putty knife , dispose of it into a zip lock bag and throw away. Spray serum CU, let dwell 5-@0 minutes then wipe clean with a microfiber towel, then follow back with the Benedict Decon 30. The serum should also take care of the odor. Never put a fan on any mold or mildew. Make sure working area is complete dry before beginning work to remove.

Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Best,

Parker Richards
COLORADO BOAT DETAILING
Gtechniq accredited
IICRC Water restoration tech
IICRC Fire and smoke damage tech
970- 443-5052



Parker is a true professional and an incredibly nice guy. I'm sure he could provide more help if you ask.

I would also strongly recommend seeking out a professional to tackle this project for you. From your description it sounds like you have MAJOR mold problems in this car and trying to tackle this type of problem your first time might be a bit of stretch for your capabilities. Just saying....

[Mike Phillips]

And here is some more info Parker has typed up. Note that this has to do with boat interior detailing but I'm fairly confident this same products and techniques would apply to removing mold inside of a car.

Use this info at your own risk.



Mold & Mildew Mitigation in Boats & Marine applications.

For many years, Mold and mildew has been a problem in Boats, Yachts, Pontoons & jet skis. Not only causing health issues but also discoloring carpet, vinyl, canvas covers, storage areas, ballast bags, engine compartments, bathrooms, galleys, common areas, anchor holds and hard surfaces.

My Name Is Parker Richards, owner & operator of VIP TRANSPORTATION, LLC in Loveland, Co, I have Been Detailing For 13 years, specializing in Boats the last 10 years, with over 900 Boats Detailed in that time. Prior to detailing, I worked in the commercial and residential restoration industry, mitigating water loss, fire damage and mold remediation claims. I am IICRC Certified in WRT (water restoration technician) & FSRT (fire & smoke damage restoration technician) & Can legally extract outside ground water Per The EPA. IICRC is the Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification.

The Following Techniques will help to Mitigate mold and mildew in Marine applications, using several different proprietary products.

1. Inspect Boat/ Yacht etc, thoroughly with a visual search. This includes ; all storage areas, Ski Hold’s, ballast bags, engine compartments, bathrooms, galleys, common areas and canvas covers. Using the proper personal protection equipment, including, but not limited to mold respirator, eye protection and kyvek suit, nitrile non-latex gloves & LED flash light. * If nothing is found on a visual search, but an odor remains, and indoor environmental hygienist may be needed to conduct an air sample. In certain cases, there may be mold or mildew present that is not detectable by a visual search, but a Strong odor remains.


2. Once the mold spores or mildew has been located, even if it is still wet, absolutely under any circumstance DO NOT use a fan to dry out the affected area, as it could lead to spreading the mold spores and further contaminating other areas. If an area is completely saturated with water, a dehumidifier may be used to remove moisture in the affected area.


3. Remove all personal contents that appear to have mold or mildew, even items that may not appear to have any mold or mildew but still are in the affected area. This includes but not limited to life jackets, towels, rope, sun tan/ sun screen bottles, fishing poles, koozies, water bottles, etc.


4. For Mold spores or mildew that has any kind of texture: remove from surface (carpet, vinyl, canvas cover, hard surface) using a plastic disposable putty knife. Put mold contaminates into a sealable bag and remove away from working area.


5. For Mold in carpet: After removing texture, spray Benefect Botanical Decon 30 onto affected area and let stand for 10-15 minutes. Lightly agitate with a medium bristled brush or grey 3m scotch bright pad. Spray Benfect Botanical Decon 30 again to affected area, then use steam over affected area. Extract Affected area (carpet) Repeat this process 3 times or until mold (color) is no longer visible. Allow to dry 4-6 hours. Once dry spray Benefect Botanical Decon 30 again over affected area. Allow to dry 2 hours.


6. For Mildew on a Canvas boat cover: Hang cover off the ground. Get the Cover completely wet using room temperature water. Spray Benefect Botanical Decon 30 on affected area. Let stand 15-20 Minutes. Saturate again with Benefect Botanical decon 30, The use a heated Pressure washer (Minimum 2500 psi), cleaning one section at a time to remove Mildew. To reinstall canvas Cover on boat, keep cover wet, install on boat, then let dry.


7. For Mildew in carpet: (green, grey or red in color) {using Stainzone} Do a small test spot first. Drip Stain Zone on to affected area, wait 2-4 minutes for foam to appear. Let stand 24 hours. If color remains, treat again. Allow foam to appear, extract again. Once color is gone, pressure was with heat (minimum 2500 psi) & extract till all foam and residue is gone. Let dry 10-12 hours.


8. Other Products to Consider: Depending on the job at hand, other products besides Benefect and Stainzone may be used. If a strong odor is present, Microban Disinfectant may be applied, as it is better at dealing with strong odors from mold or mildew. Bactibarrier disinfectant is also a great product , that is specially formulated to be used with Bactibarrier Surface Protector.



Technical Information For: Benefect Botanical Decon 30, BactiBarrier, MIcroban & StainZone



Benefect Botanical Decon 30:

Benefect Botanical Decon 30 is an innovative one-step disinfectant cleaner specially formulated for the majority of water damage restoration jobs.
Light Scent
Kills over 99.99% of Bacteria in 30 seconds!
First Botanical Carpet Sanitizer and Deodorizer registered with the EPA
No Health Warnings, No Rinsing, No PPE.


Official Statement from Benefect: “So the way that the regulation system works is that a disinfectant needs to prove effectiveness against Trichophyton to be classified as a "Fungicide". Both our Disinfectants have been tested against this and list it on the EPA approved label. There are obviously millions of different types of mold but Trichophyton is by far the hardest to kill. Mildew is very easy to kill for most disinfectants. We have done some additional testing with our Decon 30 Disinfectant product and it is proven to also kill Aspergillus niger (black mold) and Candida. We have done this to get the EPA claim of "Mildewstat" - which simply means it prevents mold from growing on a surface”

Incorporating this product into every boat detail is an excellent preventive measure in making sure there is no Mold or Mildew issue. All storage areas, ballast bags, engine compartments, bathrooms, galleys, common areas and canvas covers will benefit from a regular treatment of Benefect Botanical Decon 30.



BactiBarrier:

BactiBarrier Detergent/Disinfectant- STEP 1 is an EPA registered "quat cleaner..makes 64 gallons, a sanitizer & deodorizer that is effective as a bactericide, virucide, and fungicide and is authorized for use in food preparation areas.

The Detergent/Disinfectant is EPA approved to disinfect surfaces contaminated with Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Shigella dysenteriae, Methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), Influenza, HIV, Norovirus, Aspergillus niger ( Black Mold) and much more.

It is specially formulated for compatibility with our BactiBarrier Surface Protector product and both can be applied using either an electrostatic sprayer, pump up sprayer or by hand.

Because it is specially formulated for use with BactiBarrier Surface Protector it is recommended that no other disinfectant be used when applying BactiBarrier Surface Protector.

BactiBarrier Surface Protector - STEP 2 BactiBarrier Surface Protector is EPA registered and is bacteriostatic, fungistatic and algistatic.

BactiBarrier Surface Protector is EPA registered and is bacteriostatic, fungistatic and algistatic. The Surface Protector is approved to be used on hard surfaces; and, unique to BactiBarrier, it can also be used on soft surfaces such as carpet, drapes and upholstery.

BactiBarrier Surface Protector uses a technology that allows it to control microorganisms without chemical poisons. Instead, it relies on electrically charged particles that have a unique spear-like molecular structure. In nature, most microbes carry the opposite electrical charge - so they are physically and irresistibly drawn into contact with BactiBarrier Surface Protector's pointed molecules. The physical contact punctures the cell walls of the offending microbes. These molecular spears are undetectable to human touch, but more than a match for single-cell organisms. Application of the product can be employed by hand, pump up sprayer or by an electrostatic gun.



Instructions For BactiBarrier:


STEP 1) Clean the surface to be treated with BactiBarrier Disinfectant: a high pH cleaner and disinfectant that will neutralize unwanted microbes. Treat the surface with enough BactiBarrier Disinfectant to ensure adequate coverage across the entire surface.


STEP 2) Apply BactiBarrier Surface Protector. An odorless, surfacebinding barrier of protection against disease-causing microbes.
Protection from microbes is complete! Because the cured antimicrobial is non-volatile, insoluble, and also non-leaching, the treatment could last up to the life of the treated surface!




Stain Zone:

Stain Zone removes almost all impossible stains such as mustard, furniture and wood stains, shoe polish, urine stains, vomit, pigments, coffee, tea and other organic dyes and materials.
Stain Zone is a single product system and doesn't require mixing, special sprayers or anything else! Stain Zone works by removing, oxidizing or making invisible these previously permanent stains!
A truly revolutionary innovation from Bridgepoint Systems!
When residual discoloration remains, this product will continue to work as it dries.
Single Product Stain Remover - Works like Magic!


Caution:
For use with synthetic carpet or fabrics only
Not recommended for natural fabrics
For professional use only.


Microban:


Microban Disinfectant Spray Plus is a water-based bactericide, fungicide, deodorizer, and antimicrobial all in one unique formulation.

One application kills allergy- and disease-causing germs, fungi, mold, and mildew. It kills odor-causing bacteria, including gram negative bacteria - the bacteria encountered in sewage backups and toilet overflow situations.

Microban Disinfectant Spray Plus also provides long-lasting residual protection, so it keeps working, preventing germs and fungi from growing on surfaces long after application. Major insurance companies recognize Microban Disinfectant Spray for treatment on water losses.




End of copy and paste from a Microsoft Word document shared with me via Parker Richards.

[Racerboy230]

Thank you for your response to this thread. I think it would be best to leave this job to a professional. I will begin to look around for detailers in Westchester County, N.Y.

[BillE]

Thank you for your response to this thread. I think it would be best to leave this job to a professional. I will begin to look around for detailers in Westchester County, N.Y.

Please let us all know how your vehicle was stored. That way, hopefully one of us won't have the situation that you now have.

Good luck with getting it cleaned up (if possible).

Bill

[Setec Astronomy]

I appreciate the caution everyone has thrown at this, and I'm not discounting it at all, but I'll just share my experience.

In the 90's I had a car I didn't use much, but for sentimental reasons I kept it. It was in the driveway with a cover on it. What I didn't realize is that I had a fixed window in the back that had a leak. It also had a cloth interior like the OP's car. Every 6 months or so I would go to drive it, pull the cover, and...the inside would be covered in green mold. I mean everything, the seats, the dash, the steering wheel, etc.

I had some Lysol cleaner (in the brown bottle, do they still make that?) that I'd mix up with water in a bucket and sponge down the inside of the car, and that worked fine. It was the 90's, so no gloves, no mask...and I'm still alive.

After this happened a couple of times I figured out I had that leak...I don't remember if I tried to fix it or not, but if I did it didn't work. I did start to refer the car as "the moldmobile", and I ultimately junked it (it was 23 years old at that time).

[DetailKitty]

FYI- my sister had the same thing happen to her '92 Mustang LX.... hers was stored in a garage with a gravel floor. It's not an air-tight building nor is it climate controlled.
Just wondering if the OP has the same scenario.

[Desertnate]

I appreciate the caution everyone has thrown at this, and I'm not discounting it at all, but I'll just share my experience.

In the 90's I had a car I didn't use much, but for sentimental reasons I kept it. It was in the driveway with a cover on it. What I didn't realize is that I had a fixed window in the back that had a leak. It also had a cloth interior like the OP's car. Every 6 months or so I would go to drive it, pull the cover, and...the inside would be covered in green mold. I mean everything, the seats, the dash, the steering wheel, etc.

I had some Lysol cleaner (in the brown bottle, do they still make that?) that I'd mix up with water in a bucket and sponge down the inside of the car, and that worked fine. It was the 90's, so no gloves, no mask...and I'm still alive.

After this happened a couple of times I figured out I had that leak...I don't remember if I tried to fix it or not, but if I did it didn't work. I did start to refer the car as "the moldmobile", and I ultimately junked it (it was 23 years old at that time).

This is an interesting point. I've seen things like car interiors or even a college dorm room get covered with the green fuzzy mold you mention and that stuff seemed pretty easy to remove.

The black mold mentioned by the OP would be totally different animal, if it is indeed "black mold". Only public health or mold remediation pros would be able to properly identify it. For a period of time I lived in a 200-year old house in the UK. Not long after moving in, my daughter started having respiratory issues. We finally figured out the problem was black mold in the wooden structure of the house. As soon as we moved out the her problems went away. Ever since I've been much more careful with mold issues, even common mildew.