Remove deep wetsand marks with DA on hard paint

[SWETM]

Have you been able to correct another defect on the same repainted panel before? Cause with no correction at all with multible compounding I would think it's under the clearcoat. This is also impossible to detect by just look at it under inspection light even. So even if it's a rock hard clearcoat on your repaint it should make a little dent on the defects. Or more thoroughly describe you should be able to remove and level clearcoat down to where sanding marks is. If those don't go very deep into the clearcoat. It can be that if the painter wet sanded between the clearcoat layers and got to aggressive or got something on the wet sanding paper to get defect which was clearcoated over.

Have you gotten any haze from the compound step and was able to clear that up with a polish step? This is another tell that the wet sanding marks is in between or under the clearcoat layers. If you where able to polish to correct the haze from compounding.

[Jershinator]

Have you been able to correct another defect on the same repainted panel before? Cause with no correction at all with multible compounding I would think it's under the clearcoat. This is also impossible to detect by just look at it under inspection light even. So even if it's a rock hard clearcoat on your repaint it should make a little dent on the defects. Or more thoroughly describe you should be able to remove and level clearcoat down to where sanding marks is. If those don't go very deep into the clearcoat. It can be that if the painter wet sanded between the clearcoat layers and got to aggressive or got something on the wet sanding paper to get defect which was clearcoated over.

Have you gotten any haze from the compound step and was able to clear that up with a polish step? This is another tell that the wet sanding marks is in between or under the clearcoat layers. If you where able to polish to correct the haze from compounding.

I'm thinking you might be right that it is between clears. When I was first delivered the car from the body shop, there were drip marks I asked them to fix. When I got it back they said they polished it out but I dont know what they actually did. At that point I hadn't looked at it with a scan grip.

I believe I could see a difference between compound and polish steps, but I'm not sure if I thoroughly cleaned the panel between steps to be sure.

Oh man, this really sucks

[SWETM]

I'm thinking you might be right that it is between clears. When I was first delivered the car from the body shop, there were drip marks I asked them to fix. When I got it back they said they polished it out but I dont know what they actually did. At that point I hadn't looked at it with a scan grip.

I believe I could see a difference between compound and polish steps, but I'm not sure if I thoroughly cleaned the panel between steps to be sure.

Oh man, this really sucks

Yeah that is no fun at all. And if they sanded the drip marks down and missed the refined with less aggressive wet sanding paper on some spots or areas and clearcoated over with a couple of new layers. It's a possibility sadly that you have gotten sanding marks in between the clearcoat layers. And if they did not noticed any drip marks it's even more possible this has happened.

It's hard to correct this too sadly. As you would be sanding it down under the first clearcoat layers. A thorough painter would sanding down and through the base coat color to start over. Even if repaint is thicker than oem paint it's still very thin and hard to tune in to be just removing the sanding marks in between the layers. So basicly a new repaint with the aggressive sanding and to get down under the defects. To get a great finish that a repaint deserves. A hack bodyshop would be sanding a little to ruff up the surface and prime it and base coat color and clearcoat again. It will look good but now the thickness of the paint is high.

I would really think twice to get it back again to the bodyshop that did this. And it's hard to find good ones and even more harder to find great and awesome ones LOL. Maybe someone else have a solution that I don't know of if it's possible to resolve.

[Jershinator]

Yeah that is no fun at all. And if they sanded the drip marks down and missed the refined with less aggressive wet sanding paper on some spots or areas and clearcoated over with a couple of new layers. It's a possibility sadly that you have gotten sanding marks in between the clearcoat layers. And if they did not noticed any drip marks it's even more possible this has happened.

It's hard to correct this too sadly. As you would be sanding it down under the first clearcoat layers. A thorough painter would sanding down and through the base coat color to start over. Even if repaint is thicker than oem paint it's still very thin and hard to tune in to be just removing the sanding marks in between the layers. So basicly a new repaint with the aggressive sanding and to get down under the defects. To get a great finish that a repaint deserves. A hack bodyshop would be sanding a little to ruff up the surface and prime it and base coat color and clearcoat again. It will look good but now the thickness of the paint is high.

I would really think twice to get it back again to the bodyshop that did this. And it's hard to find good ones and even more harder to find great and awesome ones LOL. Maybe someone else have a solution that I don't know of if it's possible to resolve.

Yea that really sucks. Fortunately I got it done through insurance, so it has a lifetime warranty. But i also moved across the country so I'm not sure if that applies to another shop fixing the work. I guess i can bring it to a shop to have it diagnosed and see what i can do. I think the repaint only cost $700 which isnt terrible, but holy crap is this a bummer.

[SWETM]

Yeah check with your insurance company or a bodyshop that do that kind of insurance claims work. They useally here in Sweden help you out with your insurance company.

It's a big bummer for sure. Hope you get it sorted out to your standard. Since you have a warranty on the work try to not doing any more with it. Before you get a final decision if getting it under warranty/insurance. If not then you can be testing out some more aggressive approach like wet sanding it hard. To see if you are able to get down to the defects and get them out and still have some clearcoat left. This is a last resort and only when you are ready to repaint it on your money.

[Jershinator]

Well if nothing else, at least I can rest assured I'm not absolutely crazy or incompetent at this. It's crazy how many cars I've been able to get looking great but my own haha

[SWETM]

Well if nothing else, at least I can rest assured I'm not absolutely crazy or incompetent at this. It's crazy how many cars I've been able to get looking great but my own haha

LOL sometimes you get these unusual situations that you just standing and scratches your head. And of coarse often on your own things. But it's better that's happens on your own stuff than you have promised someone that's an easy fix and buffs out easy. And it's very hard to notice this before you start to polish and see how it reacts. Or in this case don't reacts LOL.

But look with your insurance company and then a bodyshop that can evaluate and fix it. And if you have not made a dent on the defects it's almost certain and more certain if you get the haze out with polishing. That's in the paint and paint over them.

Is the defects know on the same place as the drip marks was?
Just got me thinking if the painter where trying to do heavy coats of clearcoat. To try to hide defects from the steps before the clearcoat. And just thinking out loud. But that would be no other option than repainted. Also impossible to see what has been happened before.

Understandable you're disappointed since you have had it fixed the drip marks and still no go.

[Jershinator]

LOL sometimes you get these unusual situations that you just standing and scratches your head. And of coarse often on your own things. But it's better that's happens on your own stuff than you have promised someone that's an easy fix and buffs out easy. And it's very hard to notice this before you start to polish and see how it reacts. Or in this case don't reacts LOL.

But look with your insurance company and then a bodyshop that can evaluate and fix it. And if you have not made a dent on the defects it's almost certain and more certain if you get the haze out with polishing. That's in the paint and paint over them.

Is the defects know on the same place as the drip marks was?
Just got me thinking if the painter where trying to do heavy coats of clearcoat. To try to hide defects from the steps before the clearcoat. And just thinking out loud. But that would be no other option than repainted. Also impossible to see what has been happened before.

Understandable you're disappointed since you have had it fixed the drip marks and still no go.

I didnt notice these defects at the same time as the drip marks. The drips were much more obvious and at that time I wasn't as much into paint correction and didnt know what to look for. I'll look into insurance , and also see what a body shop thinks. Thanks for the help

[tomsteve]

looks like when it was wet sanded the sanding scratches didnt get refined.if those marks were in the base then the metallic would show it. the metallic looks to have been sprayed pretty good. you can wet sand in the driveway. its not difficult and doesnt require special tools-a spray bottle, rubber sanding block,sandpaper, and some rags. ive wet/color sanded quite a few cars in my driveway without a problem. many pro painters do the same.
myself- id use 1500 grit sanding in the opposite direction of the scratch pattern. id spray some flat white guide coat first to know when i have sanded enough.
when wet sanding by hand, listen to the work being done. youll be able to hear if there is a piece of grit between the paper and the clear.

[Jershinator]

Tbh I really dont want to wet sand it myself. And if that's what's needed I'll take it to a shop. I called my insurance and left a message about the 'lifetime warranty' on the paint since this is clearly a defect.

Do you think it's possible that these defects were in a clear coat that was clear coated over again? I cant fathom why all my attempts have made no difference