Lets talk about Iron Removers

[Maxreed241]

When I agitate an iron remover after it's done its thing, (wash mitt or microfiber towel) there is definitely more iron removal compared to just rinsing it off the paint. I would say it's at least 10x more iron removal.

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[Belo]

I understand the science behind iron removers... never used one. I wonder sometimes how much of this is just an enthusiast obsession because we can see the color change so we "know" there's some bad stuff leaving and how much of iron removal is really needed in the detailing process.

idk.

[AlexB01]

Nankin Iron Free- you can pick it up for around $50/gal.

[AlexB01]

The active chemical in all of the removers are the same (i.e., chelatation of ferrous); however, some manufactures will change the viscosity of the cleaner that will allow it cling on to the surface vs running down.

[SWETM]

The active chemical in all of the removers are the same (i.e., chelatation of ferrous); however, some manufactures will change the viscosity of the cleaner that will allow it cling on to the surface vs running down.

Is Sodium thioglycolate 46% used in the Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus and Ammonium thioglycolate used in Carpro IronX the same chemical?

[SWETM]

I understand the science behind iron removers... never used one. I wonder sometimes how much of this is just an enthusiast obsession because we can see the color change so we "know" there's some bad stuff leaving and how much of iron removal is really needed in the detailing process.

idk.

I think it's about the size of the iron partical that has often melted in the clearcoat and how many iron particals you on a fixed area. That can be the problem in the longrun on a paint. The problem is when it start to rust/oxidize that it's expand in size. Makes a crater in the clearcoat and depending on size could expand down through the clearcoat and base coat and the primer and last if very unlucky through the processed steel the panel is made of. Then you would have the panel to rust and expand to more rusting.

Detailing wise you get discolored spots on the paint and if big enough pitting in the clearcoat that will effect the gloss you get on the paint. How much of iron particals or the potential damage on the clearcoat it does idk either when it's showing from the look at it. Also the industrial fallout is often what you see the color change on when it's more spread and less color change strength. You can get this if you have a high iron count in your tap water too. It's more showing on the water line on a boats white gelcoat that yellowing or almost orange discolored line.

Then it's not only a color changing iron remover that does iron removal. Claying and the use of wheel cleaners where acidic based is very effective on iron removal. Some chemicals in car soap and other cleaners is also doing some desolving of iron. Some is likely to get of when you polishing the paint. So some chemicals and abrading is more effective than others to get iron of the paint. But sometimes you get those bigger iron particals or the amount of them that benefits with an iron remover to take them off. As with claying and an iron partical that has oxidized a lot you can shave off the top of it and leave a part of the iron partical left in the paint. But with the use of an iron remover first you could desolve it enough to let the clay pick it up.

So yes in the longrun I think iron removers has it's place. And more so in different environments and also with how the brakes releases and wear down which is different from the different brake parts that is used on vehicals. I would at least check with a color changing iron remover yearly if and how much of bleeding I get when testing. If you don't get any color changing it's great as you don't have any iron on the paint. But if you get any color changing it's a benefit to do the parts where you get it. And if you get a lot of the color changing and many concentrated spots. I would test it every 6 months or so. Especially on a car you want to look it's best and even more on a car that you plan to have for a long time.

[Calendyr]

A lot of detailers are using Eagle One wheel cleaners now. At 6,99$ a bottle, it's super cheap compared to anything else. Unfortunatelly, as always, it's not available in Canada. I should really move to the USA

I have tried a few so far and Iron-X has been the best one.

Ferrex is the last one I purchased and I am pretty much done with it, about 4 ounces left. Will not buy again, I really don't like this product.

I tried Dodo Juice Ferrous Dweller before that. It was ok. Almost as good as Iron-X but I only bought 2 small bottles, maybe if the price was much lower than Iron-X it would be a good choice.

I have also tried Bocar fallout remover... this is a local company. Product is super cheap at around 25$ a gallon. Worst product I have ever seen. It doesn't seems to do anything. I can spray it thick on a visible rust particle and it will not affect it in any way. Also it is a strong acid and the fumes are unbearable if you try to use it inside.

Now I am in the situation of having to buy a product again. I had my mind set on Meguiar's Wheel and Paint Decon, but again not available in Canada and I just placed an order with Autogeek 2 weeks ago so I have nothing else I need besides the Iron remover.... and at 70$ shipping fee, I can't afford to order just one thing from here.

Sonax is a bit cheaper than Iron-X, but I think it's designed for wheels and is not ideal for paint.

I wish Autogeek carried Adam's products too. There are a few of them that seems really good. Their wheel cleaner is one that I would love to try.

[Calendyr]

I understand the science behind iron removers... never used one. I wonder sometimes how much of this is just an enthusiast obsession because we can see the color change so we "know" there's some bad stuff leaving and how much of iron removal is really needed in the detailing process.

idk.

If the car is coated, you can't do a mechanical decontamination, so in that case it's pretty much a must. Otherwise it reduces the chance to damage the paint when claying by disolving the iron particles first. I don't use it on wheel. For wheels if they are caked on with brake dust, I grab Wheel Brightener. Otherwise just a normal wash.

[Belo]

I don't disagree that it has it's place. My thought is more along the lines of us detailers being anal and how marketing and discussion like this can influence our theories. I think the op furthers this point. Like yeah iron-x is good, but is it worth the ROI. ya know?

[SWETM]

I don't disagree that it has it's place. My thought is more along the lines of us detailers being anal and how marketing and discussion like this can influence our theories. I think the op furthers this point. Like yeah iron-x is good, but is it worth the ROI. ya know?

I think that it's like with other products and iron removers has come in a place like coatings has generally speaking. And that is if you get a bleeding effect it's working. But it is like with most products there are better ones and there are those less effective. It's almost like saying a car soap is a car soap and all does clean the paint just as good.

One thing that some does is to enhance the bleeding effect. But it's not really desolves it better. Some has this and it's even starts to bleed or changing color in the air before hitting the car. From the reviews I have seen Carpro IronX is if not at top place it's high up there. That's why many recommends it cause it is a top product in iron remover products.

I have tested some other iron removal products and when doing a control spray. I have noticed that most of them had not done the work. But when this happens the value of the product goes down fast. As reapplication you use almost if not the same amount of product again. The price would be half of say IronX. And I have needed to be doing a third application too. It's a possibility that on a very neglected paint that has have a brake problem. 1 go with IronX is not enough for spray on and let it dwell and rinse off. Then you will in a situation like this to aggitate with the iron remover to get it more effective.

So sometimes it's worth to be paying for a premium product. While you could use a cheaper product for maintance decons. Then you can be very lucky and find that hidden gem that does a great job and is cheap. I use a product that is 2/3 of the price of IronX. And in most comparisons here in EU often take the first place over IronX. Sadly also not available in the US what I know of. There is very acidic based iron removers that is cheaper and just as effective if not more sometimes. I have one acidic based that is in gel form that you can dilute with water to use as a generic iron remover. But when used full strength it makes most bare rusted metalls rust free. And this I use with caution and mostly on bad wheels.