Heard good things about Adams.... I’d second the griots fall out. Only $9 dollars more a gallon if you catch Adams at 15% off and griots 25% off through AG
If you want cheap Oxalic Acid powder and mix your self. No bleeding and not so fast working but it gets the job done. Many boat owners use this on hull to clean the water line and oxidation off.
When talking about bleeding iron removers. If useing something new for you. On some spots you get a lot of bleeding effect from. Try a second time to see if it's able to desolve it enough to be released. They are not at the same effectiveness just cause they are bleeding. Different concentrations of chemicals and 2 different chemicals that desolves the oxidized iron partical with bleeding effect IIRC. Carpro IronX is in the top tier of these iron removers. And if you find another product that actually desolve it better with checking with a control application then that's great. I use a brand not so easy to get in the US. Have bought cheaper stuff that bleeds very much. Only it does that also after a couple of applications too. While an effective one useally only needs one. Then if you have not done any iron removal before you can have problem with getting it off with a spray on let it dwell and rinse off application. Wipe gently with a mf towel excells the effectiveness from them. For maintance you should only be needing to apply dwell and rinse off though. Most wheel cleaners use a less concentration since it's meant to be used on regualar basis. So for decon before polishing I stay with a dedicated well knowned iron remover.
This is what eagle one does to my rims when I clean it..did same thing on paint but was not that visible but purple stuff was dripping on ground..so i think its a decent for the price..
"You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality." - Ayn Ran
This is what eagle one does to my rims when I clean it..did same thing on paint but was not that visible but purple stuff was dripping on ground..so i think its a decent for the price..
The key is to do it twice in order to makr sure it’s not just playing the part.
For example here’s DUB Wheel Cleaner doing its job on paint.
And here it is applied a 2nd time, the following week.
If it changes colors the 2nd time around it either didn’t remove all the iron particles the 1st time or it’s faking the funk.. Either ways it wouldn’t be good.
Not saying it’s likely, but you never know until you test.
This is what eagle one does to my rims when I clean it..did same thing on paint but was not that visible but purple stuff was dripping on ground..so i think its a decent for the price..
Nice. No where near the purple but I think maybe I have ceramic pads... no purple really on any iron remover. Personally for me I look for how much film, dust and grime it removes spray on pressure wash off. For the money Megs ultimate tire cleaner just cleans better.
I read somewhere from Meguiars you shouldn’t use wheel cleaner on paint because as it does use same iron removers, the other chemicals (carriers) are much stronger to clean more aggressively than the iron removers from paint. Believe it was in their forum from one of Meguiars reply. Said ones for paint ok for wheels but not other way around. Mumbo jumbo?
Nice. No where near the purple but I think maybe I have ceramic pads... no purple really on any iron remover. Personally for me I look for how much film, dust and grime it removes spray on pressure wash off. For the money Megs ultimate tire cleaner just cleans better.
I read somewhere from Meguiars you shouldn’t use wheel cleaner on paint because as it does use same iron removers, the other chemicals (carriers) are much stronger to clean more aggressively than the iron removers from paint. Believe it was in their forum from one of Meguiars reply. Said ones for paint ok for wheels but not other way around. Mumbo jumbo?
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Iron remover generally is not so good at cleaning. It's based for remove iron particals and industrial fallout. A wheel cleaner is made for being both a cleaner and an iron remover. Useally this means it's lower on the iron removal part. I must say that Eldorado2K use of DUB wheel cleaner is impresive. And honestly I'm also wondering about what the difference would be to use a wheel cleaner on the paint out of safety concerns. Before the wheel cleaners was mostly acidic based cause of it's ability to remove iron particals that you get from brakes. And that can make a mess on plastic and most on the glass as it etching this. It can be that the newer bleeding wheel cleaners has a very high alkaline and that's is not so good on the clear plastic or on bare plastic. And generally is not so good if any of these dries up on you which can be a problem when used over a larger surfaces as the whole car. But as with the bleeding wheel cleaner and you apply it heavy on and don't let it dry. I think you would be fine. But who knows when some brand has a chemical in it that could be bad on some parts of the car. So if not knowing the product I would be carefull useing on other parts of the car. And notice I write car as I think that it's good to use on the paint only as it is on paint on wheels.
. It can be that the newer bleeding wheel cleaners has a very high alkaline and that's is not so good on the clear plastic or on bare plastic.
From my understanding most if not all of these modern day iron removing color changing wheel cleaners are PH neutral. That’s why they’re safe to use on bare aluminum.
As far as their cleaning ability... I’ve noticed that I can get slightly better results if I scrub the paint with a wash mitt after the product has changed colors on the paint, however that doesn’t always happen in user friendly step of events.
What I mean by that is: I normally start an exterior detail off by spraying DUB Wheel Cleaner onto a dry dirty vehicle in the shade and then rinse, which doesn’t present a real opportunity to scrub it in with a wash mitt because the paint is completely dirty at that point.
Pre rinse the vehicle and you run into diluting the iron remover + losing some of its ability to cling on the paint and possibly running off due to the water being on the surface. It might be safe enough to start bucket washing right then and there but some people might disagree with that and visually I can see why they might lean towards thinking that way...
This is why I’ve yet to find a way to fully maximize the iron removing process without adding an unreasonable amount of steps.
From my understanding most if not all of these modern day iron removing color changing wheel cleaners are PH neutral. That’s why they’re safe to use on bare aluminum.
As far as their cleaning ability... I’ve noticed that I can get slightly better results if I scrub the paint with a wash mitt after the product has changed colors on the paint, however that doesn’t always happen in user friendly step of events.
What I mean by that is: I normally start an exterior detail off by spraying DUB Wheel Cleaner onto a dry dirty vehicle in the shade and then rinse, which doesn’t present a real opportunity to scrub it in with a wash mitt because the paint is completely dirty at that point.
Pre rinse the vehicle and you run into diluting the iron remover + losing some of its ability to cling on the paint and possibly running off due to the water being on the surface. It might be safe enough to start bucket washing right then and there but some people might disagree with that and visually I can see why they might lean towards thinking that way...
This is why I’ve yet to find a way to fully maximize the iron removing process without adding an unreasonable amount of steps.
Absolutely you will have some more cleaning ability if you aggitate with a wash mitt. And yes most is also ph neutral. But if I'm not wrong is when the desolving happens on the oxidized iron particals there gets an acidic chemical reaction. But not so it would be damaging if used as recommended and don't let it dry on the paint.
If you would have a vehical where 1 application of iron remover is not enough. Do a wash first and dry and you don't need to be getting it super dry. Then it's also before a polishing job. Britemax and Gyeon has chemical resistant clay bars that theirs iron removers works as a clay lube. So you would have a very effective iron removal this way. I also always start with a tar remover so it's not covering the iron particals. Have also found a clay towel that is chemical resistant which I will try out this spring if getting a car with a lot of iron particals on it. Think it was Renny Doyle that started to use a chemical resistant clay block and Sonax glass cleaner as clay lube. I have tested this and it where makeing the paint very clean LOL. The pad you did not see any dirt on after I polished a section. This was after a tar remover and iron remover and a wash before claying with the Sonax Glass Cleaner and clay block. It was a little scary and I needed to work in small sections as it where very warm outside. A lot of glass cleaner I needed to use and it was not very slick when claying. But from the little inspection I did on this hard VW paint it was not marring the paint so you saw a difference on the clayed and not clayed paint.
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- Ayn Ran
Originally Posted by Nix
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