What is the best professional polisher on the market and what products do you recommend?

[Mike Phillips]

What is the best professional polisher on the market and what products do you recommend?


Anytime I get questions via e-mail, a PM or a FB message I prefer to invest my typing time where

A: It's easier for me to share links, pictures and videos.

B: More people can read and thus benefit from the information. (no just one set of eyeballs)


The reality is, most people that contact me found me via an article I've written or a reply I've written on this forum. The thing is, instead of figuring out that the whole reason they are contacting me is because they found me via an article or answer I wrote on the forum that they to should bring their question to the forum because not only will that help them.... but it will help a future "them". If I answer everything in a private e-mail or other touch point, no one would find and contact me. It's a cycle or pattern that repeats as long as everything is shared in the public domain.

The above is kind of wordy but re-read it slowly and it will make sense.


So I get an e-mail asking,

Good evening, my name is George, I'm from São Paulo Brazil,

what is the best professional politriz on the market? and which products do you recommend?

Great questions George

I'm not sure what your electric situation is in Sao Paulo, Brazil but I "think" you have 240 volts unlike here in the U.S.A. where we have tools that run on 110 volts. That said, I'm not sure what tools are available to you?

If you're just starting out, I'd recommend getting a tool like the Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher. This is a simple, entry level tool that if YOU put the time into learning how to use it you can easily tackle most any detailing job using the right pad and products. Later, if you want to get a more powerful tool to work faster, (and that is the benefit of a more powerful tool), then I would suggest any of the gear-driven orbital polishers,

RUPES Mille

Makita PO5000C

FLEX 3401

Here's an article I wrote last year, it's probably one of the most shared articles I've ever written. It has TONS of information in it that will help you get started in the right direction. Look for a tool that looks and works like the one in the article.

Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips




As for chemicals, again, I don't know what's available in Brazil, my guess is if you're just starting out you'll be purchasing your tools, pads, products and supplies in Brazil, not from Autogeek.com here in Stuart, Florida and that's okay, it's completely understandable and this forum is to help people that buy from us and "yes" even people that don't buy from us. It's all good.

I know of one company that's been very nice to me over the years called Vonixx. I've never used their compounds, polishes or cleaner/waxes but I've been told they are very good so maybe check them out. If you contact them, tell the founder and CEO, Paulo Henrique Sampaio Nobre that Mike Phillips sent you.


As far as what product do I recommend? When it comes to polishing paint, I will use any brand that uses great abrasive technology. I test everything on black paint. Products either work or they don't there's no in-between. So read my car detailing write-ups to see what I use and look at the products I share in all the classes I teach. If I use it or show it I trust it. I won't use product that don't work and I won't show products that don't work.



Hope that helps and feel encouraged to join our forum, this is where I answer questions. Email is okay, but the forum is powerful.


Click here to join the AutogeekOnline.net car detailing discussion forum - THE best forum on the Internet

[Bruno Soares]

I come from São Paulo so I can tell you they use 110V there just like here so he could bring equipment from the USA to use there. The plug is different but there are adapters everywhere because people bring a lot of electronics from here. He mentioned "politriz" and that is usually how they call rotary buffers there. I'm not sure he just wants a rotary or a buffer in general. I totally think if he's only getting one he should get a DA.

[Mike Phillips]

I come from São Paulo so I can tell you they use 110V there just like here so he could bring equipment from the USA to use there. The plug is different but there are adapters everywhere because people bring a lot of electronics from here.

And this is what I love about our forum, someone like you with your knowledge can chime in and add a wealth of information to complete the discussion.

Thank you!

He mentioned "politriz" and that is usually how they call rotary buffers there. I'm not sure he just wants a rotary or a buffer in general.

I totally think if he's only getting one he should get a DA.

I should have Googled the word politriz but I've been here since 6:00am and all I've done so far today is answer questions sent to me via e-mail on the forum and then replying to the e-mails with the link to my answers on the forum. I have not had time to answer individual e-mails ever since I started answering questions professional, (professionally means I get paid to answer questions), since 2002 and un-professionally since 1993/1994, can't document 1993 but I can document 1994.

I agree with you in that he should get an orbital to START with and then move up to a rotary not to use all the time but for anytime where he needs to do a lot of correction fast or to detail things like oxidized boats.

Rotary buffers usually mean leaving holograms in the paint. I know some guys think they do everything with a roatry but what I say is

Sometimes it's not about you... it's about the paint -Mike Phillips


What I mean by that is paint systems are different, some are hard, some are soft and some are somewhere in the middle.

I will be teaching a class on jeweling with rotary buffers at Mobile Tech Expo in January of 2019, if you're going, attend this class.

But for most people, they should start with an 8mm free spinning orbital and if after buffing out about 50 cars to 100 cars they KNOW they are going to stick with detailing cars THEN move up to more powerful tools like gear-driven orbitals and/or rotary polishers.

[Farmallluvr]

Thank you for the links Mike,I have.been considering a Makita polisher for awhile but I am still undecided between it a Big Boss,a Big Foot or another brand O can't name here

[Mike Phillips]

Thank you for the links Mike,I have.been considering a Makita polisher for awhile but I am still undecided between it a Big Boss,a Big Foot or another brand O can't name here

If you have the budget, I would recommend getting a gear-driven orbital over a free spinning orbital just for the speed factor. With gear-driven, there's simply no pad stalling.

Also - for compounding and polishing, I really prefer a thicker foam pad versus a thin foam pad on gear-driven. For light stuff like machine applying a wax or a sealant a thin pad works but for working curved panels with either the Makita or the RUPES, I much prefer a little foam cushion to contour to the panel and make the buffing experience, (holding and guiding the tool), smoother.


Been there... buffed that.... -Mike Phillips


P.S.

Cool Avatar.

I've had a few Boxers in my life, absolutely love this breed.

[Thomkirby]

Interesting tip as recently Rupes video also stated that the new Mille was good for beginners. I was skeptical but the concept does have potential benefits for new users without tons of time using a normal DA polisher. Do you see these gear driven used more than the long throw buffers (15 or 21)?

All of these have very similar price points so if the budget allows which path do you see the industry taking? The Flex has been the leader it seems within the forum members. Rupes stocks on the Mille are improving and the Makita unit plays in the shadows. Great tools all and lots of excellent abrasive products from AutoGeek!