Using Iron-x on Competition Cars

[TMQ]

Spent most of this am doing a search re using iron-x on cars that, out of respect to owner, should not get wet using water.

I recalled discussing this but for life me me, can not find the thread.

There will be cars that are very well kept up and probably won't need the iron-x and can proceed with either rinse-less or waterless in prep for clay and polish. However, there is always a chance
you will get a car that been sitting and owner doesn't want it wet and the baggie test shows heavy contamination.

So before putting polisher to paint---how does one use iron-x without using water to flush off?

This is me thinking out loud here, I'll do a panel at a time, say a fender, apply iron-x, wait and then use old microfiber towels soaked with rinse-less and gently remove and clean fender all at once. Downside to this is a very slow process of working panel by panel with very messy floors. Am I thinking this right? Or does someone have a better process?

Tom

[Eldorado2k]

This is me thinking out loud here, I'll do a panel at a time, say a fender, apply iron-x, wait and then use old microfiber towels soaked with rinse-less and gently remove and clean fender all at once. Downside to this is a very slow process of working panel by panel with very messy floors. Am I thinking this right? Or does someone have a better process?

Tom

Yes that’s the exact process. Mike Phillips wrote an artice about it and that’s the exact method he used.

If I were you I’d do a test spot and determine whether enough bleeding occurs to justify doing it across the whole vehicle. Just because the paint fails the baggie test doesn’t mean it’s loaded with iron deposits. There’s a good chance it might be, but it’s not guaranteed and you might be able to be fine with just claying.

[TMQ]

Yes that’s the exact process. Mike Phillips wrote an artice about it and that’s the exact method he used.

If I were you I’d do a test spot and determine whether enough bleeding occurs to justify doing it across the whole vehicle. Just because the paint fails the baggie test doesn’t mean it’s loaded with iron deposits. There’s a good chance it might be, but it’s not guaranteed and you might be able to be fine with just claying.

Good advise, Eldo...
I'll do that.
Thanks.

Tom

[Mike Phillips]

.


Half the work I do on this forum is simply remembering where to find something I already wrote, getting the URL and then sharing it. Hope the old knower keeps on knowing things...


Here you go Tom...

Before & After - 1961 Plymouth Fury Barn Find


Where else in the blogosphere can you ever find a write-up like this documenting the entire process from start to finish by someone else that calls themselves an "instructor"?


Here's an excerpt - note the WARNING


Continued...



Just a pre-warning
It's not recommended to use Iron X without rinsing the residue off. So for best results, always fallow the manufacturer's directions.

That said, I used a modified technique of using a HEAVY saturation of Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Wash to wash off the residue as I worked around the car. I also used the Tornado Air Blowout Gun WITH a heavy saturation of Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Wash around any trim or emblems to flush the component with waterless wash and then blast out the residue.


Process

Step 1 - Chemically decontaminate the car
I used a modified technique for Iron X because I wanted to make sure any iron contamination is removed. I sprayed down the body panels with Iron X starting with horizontal panels first and then after they were rinsed clean I moved onto the vertical panels only tackling one side at a time.


Step 2 - Wash car using DP Waterless Auto Wash
For this I used a super heavy saturation with LOTS of clean microfiber towels to liquefy the Iron X and wipe it plus any and all dirt off the body panels.


Step 3 - Mechanically decontaminate the paint
For this we used the Porter Cable 7424XP with Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads (Medium Grade) and Detailer's Pro Series Universal Clay Lube


Step 4 - Compound paint using SONAX CUTMAX
For this step we used the SONAX CUTMAX with the Flex 3401 on Speed 6 with 6.5" Lake Country Hybrid Orange Cutting Pads.


Step 5 - Machine polish and wax using SONAX PAINT CLEANER HYBRID NPT
Next we used the SONAX PAINT CLEANER which is not technically a dedicated paint cleaner but a hi-tech cleaner/sealant.

A cleaner/sealant is like a cleaner/wax in that it will clean, polish and protect in one step only instead of using some type of natural wax ingredient for protection it uses some type of synthetic ingredients for protection.

Rob McCrary at SONAX USA told me that the SONAX PAINT CLEANER had the cutting ability of SONAX Profiline Nano Polish. So this should remove any haze left by the aggressive compounding step while leaving the paint clear, glossy, rich in color and also protected.


For the exterior glass, chrome and stainless steel trim I simply ran over these surfaces using the orange Hybrid cutting pad with the SONAX CUTMAX.

Hubcaps and tires were wiped clean using an all purpose cleaner.


Now on to the pictures...

[Mike Phillips]

Here are pictures that NEVER disappear unlike the millions of pictures people have uploaded to Photobucket over the years....

[Mike Phillips]

Then... to see how I rinsed the car WITHOUT rinsing the car - read what I wrote and did in post #3


Before & After - 1961 Plymouth Fury Barn Find

Hope that helps...

[TMQ]

Yes...That was the thread I was looking for!!

Thanks Mike!!!

Tom