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  1. #1
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    Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    So I've been lurking for a while now reading countless reviews and write ups and I still don't know what route I want to go with a DA polisher. I have a 34ft Freeman catamaran thats in really good shape but it gets used and abused in the sun and salt and I like keeping it in tip top shape. As you see in the pictures the boat is huuuuuuge and such a pain to do by hand and I hate paying someone to detail my boat. Id more than likely get away with just a fine cut polish and finish it with a sealant or liquid wax. It really isn't very oxidized except maybe on the small 3-4" lip above the rub rail from the sun. I'm thinking I'm going to need two different sized machines to do the outside hull and inside effectively, with maybe a long throw polisher(for the outside and bigger areas inside) and a smaller polisher for the more intricate areas inside. For a long throw I was looking at the Rupes long throw LHR 21 MarkII and for the inside on the smaller sections maybe a porter cable 7424XP with a 3 inch backing plate and use 3 inch pads. I'd also have the porter cable and 5 inch BP and larger pads to use when I have a buddy help me on the outside. Are these good options for tackling this beast or would you recommend something else?

    thanks, Im just up the road from you Mike in Vero Beach btw

    Mickey










  2. #2
    Super Member dlc95's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    I LOVE Rupes and Porter Cable tools, but I'd want a Flex 3401 VRG for jobs like that.

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  4. #3
    Super Member WaxMaster1's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    Quote Originally Posted by dlc95 View Post
    I LOVE Rupes and Porter Cable tools, but I'd want a Flex 3401 VRG for jobs like that.
    Ditto!!! 8mm of PURE POWER!!!

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  6. #4
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    Ok so flex 3401 with a 5inch BP for the outside? Even though the boat is in good shape, Will l still need the power of the gear driven DA to polish and apply a sealant, or is it overkill? I was thinking just a long throw random orbital would do well but note taken. Also, what about for the smaller areas inside that would need a smaller pad?

  7. #5
    Super Member vobro's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    I'd go with Flex or a rotary,even though you say it's in good shape that is ALOT of surface there!

  8. #6
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    Rotary for sure. Much faster and the gelcoat on a boat is hard. I always use the Flex PE-8 on trailers, campers and boats.
    Kirk Harrod's Mobile Detailing, Frankfort, KY
    Official Detailer of Camarofest 8 & 9
    No one has detailed more Camaros.

  9. #7
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    Yeah its a rather large task. Have to stand on a ladder to reach the upper parts of the hull sides so something light weight that will work fast is ideal. The pictures don't really do the boat justice on how big it is on the trailer. Thanks for the feedback! Now you guys just set me back another couple days adding a rotary into the mix

  10. #8
    Super Member dlc95's Avatar
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    Yep, the rotary is what I've been using on campers, boats, and rv's.

    However, I just sold it, but it will be back. I sold it to add a 3401.

  11. #9
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    Quote Originally Posted by tailin strange View Post

    So I've been lurking for a while now reading countless reviews and write ups and I still don't know what route I want to go with a DA polisher.

    I have a 34ft Freeman catamaran that's in really good shape but it gets used and abused in the sun and salt and I like keeping it in tip top shape. As you see in the pictures the boat is huuuuuuge and such a pain to do by hand and I hate paying someone to detail my boat.


    Are these good options for tackling this beast or would you recommend something else?

    Hi Mickey,

    Welcome to AutogeekOnline!

    Love seeing lurkers become active members.


    Nice boat.


    As for which tool to get? Two comments...

    First - You're on the right track. By this I mean RIGHT NOW while the exterior is in great condition START with regular maintenance. That is, start machine polishing the hull and by doing this it WILL STAY IN GREAT CONDITION. Don't let it go to the point where you have to do the compounding or even polishing step. That's a TON of work and it will take HOURS and HOURS to do.

    As for a tool?

    If you want to go cheap but good then go Griot's 6" Random Orbital Polisher like I show in this article I wrote a few months ago.... it's also the article I share the most now days.

    Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips





    If you want a tool that will do it all - look at the tool I showcased on the cover of my boat detailing book and remember - the most valuable space on a paper book is the front cover.


    Paperback book - How To Detail Boats With Marine 31 by Mike Phillips






    The gear-driven oscillating and rotating action of this tool will enable you to work faster than any other tool while creating swirl-free, hologram free results.


    See this article too - the ONLY article like it in the blogosphere...


    Holograms in gel-coat boats by Mike Phillips


    Right now while the gel-coat finish is smooth and in excellent condition any tool can be used to machine apply ether a non-cleaning wax or sealant or a cleaner/wax or cleaner/sealant.

    But down the road IF the gel-coat finish becomes chalky with oxidation, then the BEAST aka the FLEX 3401 due to the gear-driven nature of the beast will enable you to remove the oxidation fast. To be fair, RUPES is introducing their Mille and Makita has the PO500C - both of these are gear driven orbitals and in my opinion and experience are faster for doing correction work on any shape panel than any free spinning tool and their price tends to reflect this ability.


    Key thing is - no matter which tool you get - be pro-active now with this boat and while still a lot of work - it's a LOT LESS WORK to machine polish and wax this boat now while it's in good shape then it will be if you let her go...



    Quote Originally Posted by tailin strange View Post

    thanks, Im just up the road from you Mike in Vero Beach btw

    Mickey

    Can you trailer her here?



  12. #10
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    Re: Looking to make the jump from hand to machine on my boat.... New Member

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    Hi Mickey,

    Welcome to AutogeekOnline!

    Love seeing lurkers become active members.


    Nice boat.


    As for which tool to get? Two comments...

    First - You're on the right track. By this I mean RIGHT NOW while the exterior is in great condition START with regular maintenance. That is, start machine polishing the hull and by doing this it WILL STAY IN GREAT CONDITION. Don't let it go to the point where you have to do the compounding or even polishing step. That's a TON of work and it will take HOURS and HOURS to do.

    As for a tool?

    If you want to go cheap but good then go Griot's 6" Random Orbital Polisher like I show in this article I wrote a few months ago.... it's also the article I share the most now days.

    Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips





    If you want a tool that will do it all - look at the tool I showcased on the cover of my boat detailing book and remember - the most valuable space on a paper book is the front cover.


    Paperback book - How To Detail Boats With Marine 31 by Mike Phillips






    The gear-driven oscillating and rotating action of this tool will enable you to work faster than any other tool while creating swirl-free, hologram free results.


    See this article too - the ONLY article like it in the blogosphere...


    Holograms in gel-coat boats by Mike Phillips


    Right now while the gel-coat finish is smooth and in excellent condition any tool can be used to machine apply ether a non-cleaning wax or sealant or a cleaner/wax or cleaner/sealant.

    But down the road IF the gel-coat finish becomes chalky with oxidation, then the BEAST aka the FLEX 3401 due to the gear-driven nature of the beast will enable you to remove the oxidation fast. To be fair, RUPES is introducing their Mille and Makita has the PO500C - both of these are gear driven orbitals and in my opinion and experience are faster for doing correction work on any shape panel than any free spinning tool and their price tends to reflect this ability.


    Key thing is - no matter which tool you get - be pro-active now with this boat and while still a lot of work - it's a LOT LESS WORK to machine polish and wax this boat now while it's in good shape then it will be if you let her go...






    Can you trailer her here?



    Thanks for the kind words regarding the boat, shes an animal in the ocean. I'm now leaning towards getting two machines. One that can double duty inside and outside by just switching backing plate sizes and another one that excels on the outside with 5.5 or 6.5 pads (Flex 3401 or Rupes Mille when it comes out) . I looked at getting one of the marine 31 kits with a DA and products but I didn't see a package offered for the GG6 so I wrote in the PC 7424XP because it had a package and also could go down to a smaller backing plate for small intricate areas inside the boat. I can think of a few areas that will need a 3 inch pad. I would really like to make the boat shine and protected better than how it came new and I think no matter what unit(s) I choose, I will be able to accomplish that. I would like to stay away from introducing holograms in the hull even if it takes longer using a DA polisher. I think a cleaner wax or a good polish then wax/sealant/coating will be all it needs. I have another question regarding coatings. With our river water being as nasty as it is now, it only takes a few times for the hull to become stained from the water being so brown.(Especially the St Lucie river which I know you are familiar with) Would these coatings such as the Marine 31 Captains boat coating with UV50 or Pinnacle black Label diamond coating prevent the brown stains? or is that something thats inevitable and not avoidable? Would you recommend going with a higher end car ceramic coating or just the marine 31 Captains coating for gel coat with price not mattering?

    I can absolutely trailer it there to you, that would be awesome. I'm currently in the process of trying to find some color matched gel coat for the outside because I had a run in with my mail box while towing it and put a pretty decent gouge down the side of it as well as some other small dings and scratches from gaff marks, swordfish bills, wahoo teeth, etc. Normal wear and tear on a two year old boat with 1300 hours. The color is Light Grey gel coat G1001 off the AWLGRIP chart. Do you know anyone that mixes gel coat that I can buy in small quantities to bring to my fiberglass guy so he can fix the gouges? I've tried numerous outlets and they either need a section of the boat to match it or I have to order 5 gallons minimum. I only need a quart but I'd buy a gallon if need be. I haven't tried calling fiberglass of Florida yet but I was told they may be able to help. I'd like to get the outside blemish free before I start hammering away at the detailing process but its been a pain trying to find gel coat that will match

    Thanks for the lengthy and thorough response Mike

    Mickey

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