Ok I am about to buy a Rupes and I really need to know for sure ..

[Eldorado2k]

It's not louder...


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[Killerheroin]

lol ya I'm done.... sooo I ended up canceling that order of the rupes .. pads ..polishes .. everything ..

But I ordered the Boss 21 .. with the 5 inch backing plate. a set of the 6.6 pads and a set of the 5.5 pads .. 5.5 interface pad and 6.5 interface pad for it as well. Almost everything I saw people actually like the Boss 21 more than the rupes. A lot say its just as smooth maybe smoother. Although a touch heavier and louder than the rupes, but I dont car much about that. Plus the lifetime warranty on the Boss 21. The Boss 21 has a 900 watt motor and the rupes has a 500. So hopefully it will be close. I think that this is going work out real well

RMarkJr,
Glad to see that you finally decided on a direction. I am a RUPES guy but I am sure the Boss Machine is a great machine also

In the end the machine means nothing, after watching videos and listening to podcast by Kevin Brown (aka Mr. Buff Daddy), Jason Rose, Mike Stoops and Larry Kosilla you learn quickly the machine means nothings at all. The key to detailing is technique, after you master the technique and learn how to read the paint to understand what needs to be done to the paint to correct it you can use any machine on the market and get great results.

Some machines have more power then others this does nothing to the technique what it does is just speeds up the process of how quick you can perform the correction.

After you master Technique and learn how to read the paint then next thing is developing your process on how you are going to correct a certain situation and what products you are going to use.

Again there is a million products on the market and everyone is going to say one product is better than an-others, in the end it is what product is going to work for you and your technique.

I was listening to one of Larry's Podcast one time with Mike stoops and Kevin brown and Mike and Larry were talking about a student at one of there NXT classes and the student stated that he was having problems correcting the paint using X product with X machine etc. So Mike or Kevin (sorry can't remember which one) took the machine and tested it out with X product that the student was using and made it work perfectly. They showed the student and explained to him that it was not the product or the machine, it was there technique. They showed the student how to perfect there technique, and it took a while for the student to get it down, but when he did he learned it was all about technique and nothing else.

So my recommendation to you is work on technique. You now have a great machine. I don't know which products or pad you are using, nor does it really matter as long as you are using good quality products, it is all about technique, knowing how to read the paint,understanding what process works for whatever paint you are working on, doing test first on the paint to determine how aggressive you need to go to correct the problem at hand.

Sorry for the long winded message, and for repeating my self throughout this post, but as I continue to learn about detailing which all of us are constantly doing. I always go back to something I learned early in Engineering school, go back to the basics anytime you have a question on anything you do, the basics are what ground us and when you master the basics you can master anything.

Ken

[RMarkJr]

RMarkJr,
Glad to see that you finally decided on a direction. I am a RUPES guy but I am sure the Boss Machine is a great machine also

In the end the machine means nothing, after watching videos and listening to podcast by Kevin Brown (aka Mr. Buff Daddy), Jason Rose, Mike Stoops and Larry Kosilla you learn quickly the machine means nothings at all. The key to detailing is technique, after you master the technique and learn how to read the paint to understand what needs to be done to the paint to correct it you can use any machine on the market and get great results.

Some machines have more power then others this does nothing to the technique what it does is just speeds up the process of how quick you can perform the correction.

After you master Technique and learn how to read the paint then next thing is developing your process on how you are going to correct a certain situation and what products you are going to use.

Again there is a million products on the market and everyone is going to say one product is better than an-others, in the end it is what product is going to work for you and your technique.

I was listening to one of Larry's Podcast one time with Mike stoops and Kevin brown and Mike and Larry were talking about a student at one of there NXT classes and the student stated that he was having problems correcting the paint using X product with X machine etc. So Mike or Kevin (sorry can't remember which one) took the machine and tested it out with X product that the student was using and made it work perfectly. They showed the student and explained to him that it was not the product or the machine, it was there technique. They showed the student how to perfect there technique, and it took a while for the student to get it down, but when he did he learned it was all about technique and nothing else.

So my recommendation to you is work on technique. You now have a great machine. I don't know which products or pad you are using, nor does it really matter as long as you are using good quality products, it is all about technique, knowing how to read the paint,understanding what process works for whatever paint you are working on, doing test first on the paint to determine how aggressive you need to go to correct the problem at hand.

Sorry for the long winded message, and for repeating my self throughout this post, but as I continue to learn about detailing which all of us are constantly doing. I always go back to something I learned early in Engineering school, go back to the basics anytime you have a question on anything you do, the basics are what ground us and when you master the basics you can master anything.

Ken

Thanks for the reply.

The length of the post doesnt bother me at all. I think that the technique means everything as well. I think that mine isnt real bad. I am just looking at these tools to enhance that a bit.. hopefully a but faster and better too.

I tried out the new buffer on a flat counter top just to see. I can say with the thinner pads with no pressure its not as smooth than with the thicker hexlogic pads ... thats for sure, especially at lower speeds. But that might just come with time and using it though. Also I am sure that some product on the pads will help a bit too . I am looking forward to trying this out ... but I have already done, my car, my girlfriends car, another backup car that we got. I pretty much out of cars with swirls or anything to try this out on lol. Family in town this weekend, I want to try it out on one of theirs but its raining of course and through the weekend. It driving me nuts not able to use it right now, like literally bugging me. ooooo if I can get ahold of my daughters new black car she just got that would be perfect.. it needs some work all over it to get the swirls out and some heavy rub marks on the driver door.

[Eldorado2k]

If you try those thin Boss pads with the interface pad on, you'll see how much smoother it feels... Thicker pads make that polisher run smoother, hence why LC HD Orbitals have become my favorite pads.

Those thin Boss pads on the other hand give a firmer overall feel but do a good job when it comes to cutting and just a different feel overall, not necessarily bad at all, just not as comfortable.

I've always likened the difference to a luxury car with a sports suspension [thin pads] compared to a luxury car with luxury suspension [thick pads] It's all about your preference.


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[dlc95]

RMarkJr,
Glad to see that you finally decided on a direction. I am a RUPES guy but I am sure the Boss Machine is a great machine also

In the end the machine means nothing, after watching videos and listening to podcast by Kevin Brown (aka Mr. Buff Daddy), Jason Rose, Mike Stoops and Larry Kosilla you learn quickly the machine means nothings at all. The key to detailing is technique, after you master the technique and learn how to read the paint to understand what needs to be done to the paint to correct it you can use any machine on the market and get great results.

Some machines have more power then others this does nothing to the technique what it does is just speeds up the process of how quick you can perform the correction.

After you master Technique and learn how to read the paint then next thing is developing your process on how you are going to correct a certain situation and what products you are going to use.

Again there is a million products on the market and everyone is going to say one product is better than an-others, in the end it is what product is going to work for you and your technique.

I was listening to one of Larry's Podcast one time with Mike stoops and Kevin brown and Mike and Larry were talking about a student at one of there NXT classes and the student stated that he was having problems correcting the paint using X product with X machine etc. So Mike or Kevin (sorry can't remember which one) took the machine and tested it out with X product that the student was using and made it work perfectly. They showed the student and explained to him that it was not the product or the machine, it was there technique. They showed the student how to perfect there technique, and it took a while for the student to get it down, but when he did he learned it was all about technique and nothing else.

So my recommendation to you is work on technique. You now have a great machine. I don't know which products or pad you are using, nor does it really matter as long as you are using good quality products, it is all about technique, knowing how to read the paint,understanding what process works for whatever paint you are working on, doing test first on the paint to determine how aggressive you need to go to correct the problem at hand.

Sorry for the long winded message, and for repeating my self throughout this post, but as I continue to learn about detailing which all of us are constantly doing. I always go back to something I learned early in Engineering school, go back to the basics anytime you have a question on anything you do, the basics are what ground us and when you master the basics you can master anything.

Ken

Even Larry was talking about the time he tried to mimic Kevin's approach, to the point of timing his passes. Frustrated, he still wasn't getting the results, however he forgot to clean the pad. Just that one important element stood in his way of achieving the desired result.

Technique is such a huge variable. I had a friend of mine dress a pad with quality product, and work that tool (7424) so that the pad jiggled over his work area. He had too much weight in the tail end, and wasn't getting any rotation. The strange part was that he never noticed the why, or how. He only noticed no rotation.

I think part of the reason I can work a Porter Cable 7424 with fairly good result, is that I only had a rotary buffer, and a 6" orbital buffer (the one speed, weak, kmart special) for so long that I had no choice but to maximize the results from the orbital if I wanted it to really do anything.

There were many times I didn't need the power of the rotary, and used the orbital. I used it with Meguiar's M80, followed by M20. The challenge of keeping that thing spinning is probably where I learned to keep the PC spinning. I learned little to no pressure from the rotary, and the right surface angle from the orbital buffer.

[Dereksdtail]

I had the boss and felt the 900 watts was more power than the machine needed, the rupes is way smoother! The learning curve is worth it, but a lot of people like the boss too, I think maybe I'm too picky, but really really love my rupes 21, now I'm going to get a mini!


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[MattPersman]

OP did you try maxing out your PC with the microfiber pads and accompanying polishes? They will bring more new life into that machine.

As Mike phillips said not word for word but he would choose a flex to bang one out.


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[MattPersman]

Flex 3401

Flex 3401

[Killerheroin]

Thanks for the reply.

The length of the post doesnt bother me at all. I think that the technique means everything as well. I think that mine isnt real bad. I am just looking at these tools to enhance that a bit.. hopefully a but faster and better too.

I tried out the new buffer on a flat counter top just to see. I can say with the thinner pads with no pressure its not as smooth than with the thicker hexlogic pads ... thats for sure, especially at lower speeds. But that might just come with time and using it though. Also I am sure that some product on the pads will help a bit too . I am looking forward to trying this out ... but I have already done, my car, my girlfriends car, another backup car that we got. I pretty much out of cars with swirls or anything to try this out on lol. Family in town this weekend, I want to try it out on one of theirs but its raining of course and through the weekend. It driving me nuts not able to use it right now, like literally bugging me. ooooo if I can get ahold of my daughters new black car she just got that would be perfect.. it needs some work all over it to get the swirls out and some heavy rub marks on the driver door.

RMarkJr,

A great idea that I am going to do this summer that I got from Larry is to goto a auto body shop and see if they have a hood of a car that they are getting rid of. With this you can really work on you technique, try different pad combinations and even work on a full paint correction where you start off by wet sanding the paint to get the paint dead glad and work through the grits, compound, and polish to perfection.

By by doing it this way you can really master your new machine and technique .

key thing is to have fun

also a suggestion if you have not tried them yet give the Meguiars Micro Fiber pads a try. You will not be disappointed. The key is to follow the Kevin Brown Method and completely prime the microfiber pad and make sure you practice reside control. This is very important. If you have a air compressor this is really easy as you can blow out the pad after every panel or section you do.

i use the Complete Meguiars Microfiber system and it is so easy to use and the results are amazing.

i have tested this system with both of my Rupes machines and my pic machine and can get great results with all three.

[Killerheroin]

Even Larry was talking about the time he tried to mimic Kevin's approach, to the point of timing his passes. Frustrated, he still wasn't getting the results, however he forgot to clean the pad. Just that one important element stood in his way of achieving the desired result.

Technique is such a huge variable. I had a friend of mine dress a pad with quality product, and work that tool (7424) so that the pad jiggled over his work area. He had too much weight in the tail end, and wasn't getting any rotation. The strange part was that he never noticed the why, or how. He only noticed no rotation.

I think part of the reason I can work a Porter Cable 7424 with fairly good result, is that I only had a rotary buffer, and a 6" orbital buffer (the one speed, weak, kmart special) for so long that I had no choice but to maximize the results from the orbital if I wanted it to really do anything.

There were many times I didn't need the power of the rotary, and used the orbital. I used it with Meguiar's M80, followed by M20. The challenge of keeping that thing spinning is probably where I learned to keep the PC spinning. I learned little to no pressure from the rotary, and the right surface angle from the orbital buffer.

Dlc 95,
great point about timing your passes and cleaning your pad. After I learned about the Kevin Brown method I clean my pad at minimal after every panel and some times after every 2x2 section. I use compressed air to clean my pads along with a pad brush.

another great point you bring up is rotation. As soon as you get a new machine everyone should take a black Sharpe and put a line on the backing plate so you make sure the pad is always rotating then you can learn about pressure by watching the spread of the rotation.