Single Stage Paint Restoration Process

[72fordgts]

I have an old Ford Torino which has a single stage repaint that was done in the mid 90's. The car is bright red, non metallic. It is not a high quality paint job, but it looks okay because the car has mostly been garaged since it has been painted. That said I am trying to improve the paint. It's horizontal surfaces have some oxidation, but the biggest problem is water spot etching from when the car used to sit outside. Is my best option to still use the restoration process outline in the tutorial with the Lincoln Mark IV using, the Meguiar's #7 and the deep soak method? Or will I need something more aggressive?

Before I came across that method, I tried Meguiars Ultimate Compound but it seemed to do nothing to the water spots. The only thing that helped was claying the paint but it seemed to mostly take off the newer water spots or make them less visible.

I included a picture of the paint on the car's hood showing the water spot etching.

[Mike Phillips]

For my own reference and to avoid confusion, here's your similar post about the paint on this car.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...age-paint.html


Since the above thread is about removing water spots and this thread is about restoring single stage paint, I don't see a reason to combine them but normally you only create a single thread per topic.

[Mike Phillips]

As to your question about restoring single stage paint,

For ANTIQUE and ORIGINAL neglected single stage paint that's important to a person to do everything they can to preserve, restore and maintain the paint then starting by rubbing down with #7 is where you start.


Since your car has a re-paint, albeit 20 years old, it sounds like you simply need to start out compounding the paint and AFTER the last machine comounding or polishing step, THEN apply the #7 before applying a wax or sealant.


Two different approaches depending upon the paint and the objective. Applying #7 AFTER the compounding and poilshing step is to simply gorge the paint AFTER all the dead or scratches, or water spoted paint has been removed and fresh, paint has been uncovedred.

This second approach is the approach we used on this 1989 Mercedes-Benz. I'm working towards the process we used on this Mercedes-Benz as I go through the pictures to create a new article explaining the differences in the approaches.


Pictures - 1989 Mercedes-Benz - Low Mileage Beauty All Original Beauty!








And for your reference, here's a list of all my #7 articles.


All Mike Phillips #7 Show Car Glaze Articles in one place

[72fordgts]

Thanks for the great information Mike. I posted this thread too as I though this was the forum area to post if I wanted a response from you. I apologize for the confusion.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks for the great information Mike. I posted this thread too as I though this was the forum area to post if I wanted a response from you. I apologize for the confusion.

No problemo, it's all good.

Normal forum protocol is a single thread per topic. When I find duplicates I merge them just to help avoid confusion. I've come across sets of identical threads that are word-for-word the same just in different forum groups. The thread starter is just hoping to get action on his questions and figures more threads leads to faster or more answers. What it ends up doing however is getting some posts on one thread and other posts on the other thread and it's just more streamline to keep all the questions and all the answers in a single thread.

[Mike Phillips]

We recently did an extreme makoever to my brother-in-law's 1970 Ford Torino GT Convertible.

There's some pictures here,

SONAX Wheel Cleaner Plus vs Cragar SS Chrome Wheels

[Mike@ShineStruck]

Last step, would definitely by ceramic coating ontop of the SS paint
Gives it a more mirror like finish and actually gives the paint a real UV barrier

[Mantilgh]

But wouldn't the trade secret oils mess with the coatings ability to bond to the paint, or do these oils cure also?