Techniques for buffing out the chrome bumpers and stainless steel trim on classic cars and muscle cars

[Mike Phillips]

Techniques for buffing out the chrome bumpers and stainless steel trim on classic cars and muscle cars

A few weeks ago we had a forum member ask how to go about machine polishing the chrome bumpers and metal trim on a classic Chevelle in this thread,


Classic Techniques on Classic Cars? (and metal polish recommendations)

And what would you recommend for polishing and protecting the chrome bumpers and trim?

So as a part of the process for buffing out Wayne Carini's 1949 Buick Roadmaster, a car with a lot of chrome and also stainless steel trim, I polished these metal surfaces the same way I always do and the same way I recommended in my reply to the above thread.

I also took pictures of the process as well as the face of the buffing pad.



AFTER I machine waxed all of the paint using an ultra fine cut jewelling wax I then used the last pad still on my polisher to machine polish the chrome bumpers and all the stainless steel trim.
















Here's the pad I used. Note the brownish color that has built-up in the center? That's the dirt staining and oxidation that came off the bumpers and trim.





That's my method for tackling the brightwork on classic cars. You can always do it by hand too....

[Rsurfer]

Really nice job Mike. Were you using a DA or rotary and do you tape. Seems like a smaller pad would not have made a difference on the trim.

[Mike Phillips]

Really nice job Mike. Were you using a DA or rotary and do you tape.

I use whatever is in my hand at the time of the correction step. In this case the correction step was just a ONE STEP using the Porter Cable with a polishing pad that was just used on the front driver's side fender.

This is my point, in most cases it doesn't take much to clean up and brighten chrome or stainless steel surfaces UNLESS the stainless steel is horribly neglected. This means just about ANYTHING spinning on ANY pad with ANY tool will remove any built up staining, oxidation, etc and restore a clear, bright shiny finish.

It's partly about speed.

Instead of stopping what I'm doing to get a dedicated pad and a different tool or even a dedicated product I simply use what's in my hand.

I DO wait till I'm done with the last panel because I don't think it's a good idea to take the residue that comes off the bumpers and trim and grind it into the paint.


Also, if I were doing a multiple step process, so that means,

Compound
Polish
Wax

Then I would hit the metal surfaces after compounding the last body panel using whatever I was using for a tool, pad and product for the compounding step. Then wipe off the residue and move onto the polishing step and I don't need to or have to or even want to hit the metal surfaces again because they are done.

I do run my wax or sealant over them for the last machine step simply because a coating of wax or sealant on chrome or stainless steel does in fact offer some protection and also creates a uniform appearance.

As for taping off?

The only time I tape off cars is if they are new cars with plastic trim. I don't tape off cars built before 1975 - instead I run the buffer over the trim on real cars. (like this article shows)

See this article, it shows what I tape off on cars like this,

Cheap Insurance - Time Saver - Reputation Saver - Autogeek Detailing Cover-Up Towel

Seems like a smaller pad would not have made a difference on the trim.

Not this trim. All this trim needed was some attention from a spinning pad. And that's what I gave it.

For really bad stainless you need special stainless steel polish and the right tools to do it right. Here's an example of what can be done without the right tools...



1956 Pontiac Star Chief Convertible





There's a lot of stainless steel on this car including the fenderskirts... no black or gray pebble textured plastic trim to be seen...







We're going to see if we can restore some brilliance to the stainless steel...



Stainless Steel Fender Skirts - Before

Stainless Steel Fender Skirts - Before









Side-by-Side







After



Much better...




And here's that car finished at Autogeek's Show Car Garage from 2011





This is actually a very informative write-up for anyone that's never read it before.


1956 Pontiac Star Chief Convertible

[cleanfreak3]

So a dedicated aluminum/metal polish isn't necessary for wheels?

Could use just a compound or a polish?

[Mike Phillips]

So a dedicated aluminum/metal polish isn't necessary for wheels? Could use just a compound or a polish?

One thing I do is I choose each word I post to ANY public forum very carefully. I learned from experience there's always someone out there looking for a mistake.


If you re-read everything I wrote in this thread about buffing out the 1949 Buick Roadmaster you'll see I used the words,

Chrome and Stainless Steel


In this thread I never used the word aluminum. Just wanted to make that clear for everyone that will read this into the future. I also stated that for chrome and stainless in GOOD shape then whatever product you were using would work to clean them up.

I never said what should be used for chrome or stainless in BAD shape in this thread on the 1949 Buick because there are dedicated products for these surface. For the thread about the 1956 Pontiac Star Fire I remember using a beta version of a stainless steel polish on the fender skirts.


Now that I've typed all of the above for the record. To you question...


There are some paint polishes that will work well for aluminum. This is especially true for NEGLECTED aluminum to bring it back to almost good or excellent condition.

When it comes to creating the perfect shine on aluminum, that is a chrome-like appearance, then my experience has shown me that nothing works as well as dedicated aluminum polishes and specifically FINE cut or ULTRA FINE cut concourse type FINISHING aluminum polishes.


Take my leg for example. Most people that see it say it looks like chrome.





Hope that clears things up...

[custmsprty]

Great stuff Mike.

My Sportster is over due for a full on chrome polishing and restoration.